[Django88]

So I picked up a car that's got a decade on me and now I wanna be cool so here's my plan for my "new" car as well as a general summary of where it stands as of this post.

The car is a 1988 Hoonda CRX Si. 200k miles. Body is a little beat up and the rear quarter panels are rusting. I received it without an interior and the classic broken ac panel, mystery exhaust, no brakes, no radio (not the factory option), three speakers, no drivers interior door handle, busted light housings, aaaaaaand a slough of other issues. HOWEVER despite the rusty QPs the underside is relatively free of rust. my guess is the factory sprayed this one twice or someone had the thought of getting it done. Either way I'm grateful. The Stock D16A6 runs. it needed a valve adjustment but otherwise was fine.

Plans for this car is to be a daily so I will be focusing on repairing things and while I will be modifying this car, I do not intend on anything crazy like AWD or say a k swap..... anyway, I will be making a conceded effort to improve the already great handling. Primary objective is smiles per mile. Suspension will be where I throw the most money. Since this purchase I have started to fall in love with the mini me builds and am contemplating buying another engine and building it myself. Im on the fence on which is more reliable, forced induction, or high compression. Idk, im new so get ready to see mistakes.

THE BODY & Paint is a high priority but I do not possess the skill to weld steel yet so I am leaning towards a resto shop I know of. it would be stupid expensive but it would yield a better result.
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Checklist (organized by priority. subject to change)
Valve Adjustment
Timing Belt
Fuel leaks
Master Cylinder
Rust
Dents
Paint
Seats - DA9 Integra
Carpet
Interior Trim*
Climate Control Faceplate
Cupholders
Rear Triangles install
Front Lip reinstall
Sunroof Repair
Rims & Tires
Theft Deterrents
Radio
Speakers
Power locks
EF sedan rear door handle swap
Steering Wheel & QR Hub
A/C?
Coilovers - PG 350/350
Sway Bars - PG
Control arms - S1 Built
camber kit - Megan Racing
RUBBER bushings
Rear disc conversion
Shock Tower Braces
4pt harness
Hidden Subwoofer
Wire tuck
Engine bay

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While I am new to honda I have been lurking this site for about 3 ,months and have a general idea of what I want out of this thing. Now the suspension components are expensive and rather high end and while i have beer pockets I retain my wine taste. Cosmetic changes are not a concern of mine with the exception of doing a wire tuck and a bit of engine bay dress up. Im hoping the whole car looks stock from a distance and it wont be until you take a good long look at it that you see those very subtle touches. right now those touches are rust but who knows what the future holds?

I dont want to hear creaks and feel every gravel i touch so Im going with rubber rather than poly or spherical bushings.

Any suggestions are welcome!

 

[Baker]

Sounds like quite a project to tackle.
The biggest issues will be the body work and sourcing the factory parts you need.
Best of luck.

 

[Django88]

yeah I am chasing a problem where it starts and idles for a sec, then immediately dies. I think I have narrowed the problem down to fuel as it runs just fine when fuel is supplied manually. It also dies when you try to give it any throttle. Idk, this one is a real head-scratcher for a noob like me haha.

Ive checked the IACV, Injectors, plugs & wires, distributor, timing, main relay, fuel pump, wiring to the pump and sending unit, aaaand the ecu harness. No codes are being thrown, and I've already done about 16 hrs of research both on this forum, and other socials/sites. I am getting a new fuel filter and a pressure test kit tomorrow and I'll be testing the regulator as well. The regulator looks original so I'm thinking about replacing it regardless of if its bad.

Also Baker, I see you in literally every post on this site. good on you for being a big help to everyone on here! Also read your stuff and really like what you said in your feature. makes me feel good to know the most active member on here has a similar mindset to what I try to have!

 

[ZiawliShah]

Hi , I'm dying to see the result , I'm very interested in how you restore everything . I just don't even want to do this kind of work, it seems to me it's better to rebuild the engine a few times than to do the body restoration.

 

[Baker]

Also Baker, I see you in literally every post on this site. good on you for being a big help to everyone on here! Also read your stuff and really like what you said in your feature. makes me feel good to know the most active member on here has a similar mindset to what I try to have!

Sadly, I'm one of maybe 4 regular members that still post anymore.
I among many other members on here, back in the day posted a lot of info on this site, helping set up the FAQ section in each forum so folks could find the info they needed more easily.
That feature was so long ago, 2008! I ended up selling that car bare bones back in 2012.
I no longer have a Crx, but will always be a loyal Honda enthusiasts, as that is all I have driven over the last 25 years or so, currently daily driving a base model 5spd '06 Rsx.

 

[Django88]

Sadly, I'm one of maybe 4 regular members that still post anymore.
I among many other members on here, back in the day posted a lot of info on this site, helping set up the FAQ section in each forum so folks could find the info they needed more easily.
That feature was so long ago, 2008! I ended up selling that car bare bones back in 2012.
I no longer have a Crx, but will always be a loyal Honda enthusiasts, as that is all I have driven over the last 25 years or so, currently daily driving a base model 5spd '06 Rsx.

Well It looks like Imma be here a while bc as you can see, I got alot of work ahead of me. Im so grateful for the FAQ on this site. tons of knowledge and any broken links can be found with the wayback machine. Ive got a good library of literature on this vehicle because of this site. Im definitely more prepared for this than on previous projects.

 

[jwharnish]

Well It looks like Imma be here a while bc as you can see, I got alot of work ahead of me. Im so grateful for the FAQ on this site. tons of knowledge and any broken links can be found with the wayback machine. Ive got a good library of literature on this vehicle because of this site. Im definitely more prepared for this than on previous projects.

Good to see another 88 up for restoration. As you will find out parts for these cars are difficult to find any longer. The rust issue is something you want to take a close look at, since that may determine where you want to take the car. I have a couple of rust areas on mine, that was how I justified doing some solo events with it, and not trying to keep it truly OEM. But now those days are over with this car, I may get around to finally addressing some of the areas that need repaired. True OEM original cars are pretty rare these days, and command a fairly high price. Also tend to attract car thieves as well, so keep that in mind. Hate to spend all the time and money restoring a good car, just to have it stolen once finished. Happened recently to another member.
A lot of valuable info on this site, so whenever questions come up, most likely someone here will have an answer. Good luck.

 

[Django88]

Good to see another 88 up for restoration. As you will find out parts for these cars are difficult to find any longer. The rust issue is something you want to take a close look at, since that may determine where you want to take the car. I have a couple of rust areas on mine, that was how I justified doing some solo events with it, and not trying to keep it truly OEM. But now those days are over with this car, I may get around to finally addressing some of the areas that need repaired. True OEM original cars are pretty rare these days, and command a fairly high price. Also tend to attract car thieves as well, so keep that in mind. Hate to spend all the time and money restoring a good car, just to have it stolen once finished. Happened recently to another member.
A lot of valuable info on this site, so whenever questions come up, most likely someone here will have an answer. Good luck.

yeah I was just reading that thread, really sucks. Im planning on adding 2 kill switches, removable wheel, and I had an idea for protecting against tow aways. It would basically be like a trigger lock for a gun, it'll have a key and be removable so I can use the tow points if I need to. I know there is no way to make a car theft proof so i guess we just gotta settle for theft deterrence.

 

[AttackCRX]

Just a head up on the 4pt harness you want to install. The proper way to do it is to use a roll-bar (Autopower) so the angle of the belt is at the right degree. For some reason, a lot of people mounted the belts to the floor pan which would result in a broken back if there was ever an impact. That being said, I wouldn't recommend a roll-bar on a daily/street car if you like your head being round.

Also, good luck with your project! Reminds me when I started mine 16 years ago.

 

[Django88]

Just a head up on the 4pt harness you want to install. The proper way to do it is to use a roll-bar (Autopower) so the angle of the belt is at the right degree. For some reason, a lot of people mounted the belts to the floor pan which would result in a broken back if there was ever an impact. That being said, I wouldn't recommend a roll-bar on a daily/street car if you like your head being round.

Also, good luck with your project! Reminds me when I started mine 16 years ago.

Thats a very good point to make! Growing up in an era where airbags are standard, kinda makes me fear this car. I may just be a scaredy cat but improving safety is on the priority list. I learned harnesses were a good way to do that if they were mounted correctly. I am looking into the Blox racing harness bar. mounts to the B pillars and seems like it doesn't compromise too much space. not a bad price too! ~$204

I agree on the roll bar, not really practical, or safe for rear end collisions.

 

[Baker]

Thats a very good point to make! Growing up in an era where airbags are standard, kinda makes me fear this car.

Some of us grew up in an era riding in the front, bench seat, lap belt and steel dash, making the Crx no big deal.

 

[nihkon]

Just to add a little to the 4-point harness discussion....
Harnesses aren't really a "safety" feature per se, but intended more to keep you from flopping around during track-day style driving. I'd suggest against the use of a harness for daily driving on the street. Just stick to the oem belt.

That said....

The rollbar isn't only to help with a mounting location for the harness, but also to provide roll over protection. This is critical, as a typical 4-point harness doesn't work the same way as your standard oem seat belt does. OEM's allow your upper body to "roll" around the shoulder harness axis, preventing your body from sliding "under" the lap belt (submarining.)

However, a typical 4-point harness (when worn properly, ie, tight, not loose like you see in so many videos) keeps you snug against the seat....and completely upright. In the case of a rollover without a rollbar, you'll be crushed. Those "harness bars" do nothing to help in those situations. I think the only semi-safe situation to use harness bars is during low-speed autocross events, where roll-overs are very unlikely.
The other drawback to the typical 4-point harness is that since they're just a tight, static belt, you run the risk of submarining. Watch some videos of that. The results aren't pleasant.

Companies like Schroth have their "ASM" (anti-submarine) technology, which is basically an extra length of harness, looped around on itself. In the case of an accident, it comes undone and let's your body react in a similar way as an oem belt does. But you'll pay extra for Schroth. As far as I know, they're the only company that offers this type of system. If you're dead-set on wearing a harness while daily driving, this is the only DOT approved option.

Also keep in mind that a harness should ideally be used in conjunction with an aftermarket racing seat as well. Something without all the extra inches of padding that an oem seat has. Again, with the static nature of the harness, if you introduce slack (in this case, by means of the heavily padded seat), you'll potentially find yourself coming out of that harness.

So maybe evaluate why you really want/need a 4-point harness. Then plan out the rest of it as needed.

 

[jwharnish]

Some of us grew up in an era riding in the front, bench seat, lap belt and steel dash, making the Crx no big deal.

That's for sure. 63 VW was my first car. Look at that now and think, probably wasn't the safest of cars. Then neither was my Corvair convertible.
I'd forget about roll bars and multi point harness. Just get everything working and drivable. And then see where it takes you.

 

[signalpuke]

Thats a very good point to make! Growing up in an era where airbags are standard, kinda makes me fear this car.

My first 'car' was a 76 Jeep J10 truck, I was 15. I was only supposed to use it to drive down local private roads that led to a couple of local ranches I worked on after school, but I did take it out for a couple of joy rides. Three on the tree, burlap bench seat, lap belts, and a radio.

That said, I echo everything nihkon said. Either OEM/reclinable seats and OEM belts and no roll bar, or full bucket (FIA spec), five point (FIA spec), roll bar or cage (to meet the minimum requirements for any sanctioned racing series) and off road use only with a helmet. If you go with aftermarket seats for a street car, they need to be reclinable, and made by an OEM supplier. I'm partial to Recaro.

 

[Baker]

Just get everything working and drivable. And then see where it takes you.

This, for sure!

 

[Django88]

So maybe evaluate why you really want/need a 4-point harness. Then plan out the rest of it as needed.

Thanks for the info! you probably just saved me a ton of money! Guess ill just have to be a little more brave 🤷‍♂️

 

[AttackCRX]

Thanks for the info! you probably just saved me a ton of money! Guess ill just have to be a little more brave 🤷‍♂️

I'm running a 5-point latch and link style harness in my car, along with the Autopower 4pt rollbar. The car is setup more for HPDE events which made it necessary after sliding around in my OEM seat, so the racing seat/harness do their jobs well holding me in position. The car also rarely see's the street.

That being said, a harness would be an absolute PITA on a daily driver. It's not quick at all to connect. It's hard for me to even reach my passenger seat when I'm strapped in securely.

I would honestly get the driver seat re-upholstered (w/padding) and it will feel so much better. The Si's had better bolsters than the HF's.

 

[Django88]

Lil Update for y'all. Plus some speculation (as a noob does)

Alright so I've done a few things and have figured out why it wouldn't start. The no-start situation was caused by a combination of incompetence on my part, and several old fuel pumps. The OE pump wasn't pumping so I bought one from AutoZone. The box smelled like mildew but I put the darn thing in anyway 🤦‍♂️. After figuring out I had wired the 3 prong plug up wrong, and fixing all the fuses that blew, I determined that the "new" pump I put in wasn't pumping either. So I am now ordering a Walbro 255 from amazon. This is something I had planned in the future but since access to good parts is very limited, I decided to go ahead and upgrade. I intend to increase the hp a little anyway, and with the way things are going, The injectors might be next, along with a new regulator. That said, I dont want to go that route quite yet. I'd like to drive the thing first.

Self deprecating ramblings aside, I have tried my hand at polishing what was left of this paint. The result is really good! has a good shine, and the smaller imperfections are all but gone. its just the massive cracks in the clear coat that i can't fix. I intend to get it repainted in Rio Red to retain value. I was just bored while the power was out yesterday. I also painted my battery tray and radiator supports bc they were rusty.

I'm also polishing my valve cover, I saw someone do it and it was so beautiful. My ADHD brain loves shiny, what can i say?

So yeah, that's what I've been into, that and driving the SiR on Assetto.

 

[Dave_Darling]

I intend to increase the hp a little anyway, and with the way things are going, The injectors might be next, along with a new regulator.

Just remember that more fuel does not equal more power. You need more air, and then you need to mix it with the correct amount of fuel, to get more power. If you switch over to bigger injectors that flow more fuel, and don't improve airflow at all, you will probably be making less power and certainly will be making more emissions and worse fuel economy.

To flow more air (than the stock EFI can handle), you will need fairly significant modifications. Something like a turbo setup, or a supercharger, or a more aggressive cam grind that allows you to run higher RPM, and so on. The engine is a system, and just changing out one part of the system is unlikely to improve the performance of the system.

--DD

 

[Baker]

That rot is pretty significant and will probably be worse once the trim and bumper covers are removed.
With all that body rot, I have a hard time believing the underbody isn't crusty.