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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone done this? as far as I can tell the regulator will bolt into the door, i haven't bolted the window to the regulator yet, and i'm still working on the wiring, but i figured since i bought the wrecked integra for the motor/tranny id give this a shot.

also, what about power mirrors? looks like the mirrors will bolt up too...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i know the integra glass won't work in the crx, i was wondering if the crx glass will bolt to the integra regulator mounted in the door. i'll give it a shot and do a writeup if it works
 

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It's been done countless times with Civic 4-door regulators. In that case, you swap out the track that bolts to the glass, and the counter-spring (to deal with the weight of the larger window) like this:

The rest of it just bolts in. Well, then you have to deal with the wiring, switches, relay and fuses... That kind of bolt-in.
I was actually just messing with my rig yesterday. I was tired of the auto-down function jamming the window against the bottom of the door and flexing the inner panel. I thought maybe the pulser in the motor just needed to be adjusted a little, like by skipping a tooth or two on the rack part of the regulator. I had run it off the end of the rack in the past to swap springs, so it made sense to me.
No such luck. Turns out the pulser gets it's signal from the motor shaft, before the gear box adjusts things to a useful RPM and torque value. Since it watches the motor shaft via the pulser, the switch's auto-down function only turns off power when the shaft stops. So then I asked myself "What's supposed to make the motor stop?" The gear box multiplies torque, so it's going to take something pretty solid. Evidently the bottom of the door isn't solid enough - like I said, in operation it flexes the inner door panel until the motor comes to a complete stop. Then I noticed - the power window side of the rack doesn't have teeth cut into it all the way from end to end. The motor is supposed to run down the length of the rack until it hits the un-toothed area where it gets jammed. I guess I could have discovered that if I had only let the motor fully run it's auto-down function while out of the door. Or maybe I did and just didn't connect the dots, but anyway...
I put the regulator and glass back in the car and ran the motor down so it looked like the glass was fully inside the door (the rail was about a fingers-width from the bottom of the door), and marked the position of the motor on the rack. I took it all back out, interpreted my scrawl from trying to mark while inside the door, hooked the motor up and ran it as far to the bottom end as it would go. I then compared the motor position at the current end of the track with my mark and decided the toothless area needs to start 2 or maybe 3 teeth earlier than it does. Out came the welder (which actually behaved for once) and grinder.

And away went 2 tooth-notches. A test run showed that it runs down and just tags the bottom of the door, but goes no further. It just *clunk* stops, and the switch clicks off a fraction of a second later. I considered filling the third notch, but thought it might be too much - I could be left with the window glass sticking up out of the weather strip a little. Not the end of the world, but potentially annoying, and I didn't want to trade one annoyance for another. :)
So, a little paint over the weld area and some fresh grease later, I could finally reinstall the vapor barrier and hopefully stop the slight leak into the driver's footwell. Then again, that might be coming from the 'teg power mirrors. :rolleyes1:
'90-93 Integra mirrors: No, the screw holes don't quite line up. It looks like the same pattern, but the well that the screw holes sit in the bottom of is a different shape on the CRX, so you need to re-drill the holes about 1/4" away. The exterior bottom window trim has a different profile, so you need to grind the base of the mirror to match, or smash your trim when you try to screw down the mirror. I think the top/front edge of the base needs some grinding as well, but I forget how exactly... It's been a few years.
 

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when i the drivers side door window. only one side of the window is pulled down. so i pulled the door pannel off and the glass had popped out. so i put it back in. it seems it was to loose does anyone know how to fix this cant figure how to get the metal panel off the top of the window
 

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baker423 said:
stevethecat said:
cant figure how to get the metal panel off the top of the window
Metal panel? :?:

Unsure what you are referring to.
yknow when you take the door panel off then inside theres a metal panel covering the window lifty thingy. but has holes so ycan kinda mess with it
Heh just got a email telling me that i posted this :lol:
 

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No offense, but are u building just a show car? With everything you're doing it sounds like it'll be a pretty heavy car.
 

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Agreed. Comparing the power window regulators to the crank ones, you're only gaining maybe 3-4 lbs per side. Switches, wire, fuses and relay - maybe two lbs.
The 'teg mirrors are only a pound or two heavier as well.
You could regain all that lightness and more by switching to HF bumper supports, or installing an aluminum flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
a show car... maybe not strictly a show car. right now i just want a fun daily driver that looks nice and is comfortable. power windows and mirrors aren't a necessity by any means. i bought an integra for the b18 in it that was wrecked in the rear. leather seats, power mirrors, and power windows are all an added bonus that i didn't have any plans of installing until i had them laying around.

the widebody kit, i have always liked, and found one for relatively cheap, at least for this widebody. it makes me happy, so i'll do it

thanks for the link shortA
 
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