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Well, I got a adj. ball joint installed on the drivers side to minimize the camber. I had to get it done since the [email protected] at the State Ref said he couldnt put it on the rollers until the camber was fixed. :x Anyway...eversince I've got it, it seems as if my shock travel has got A LOT shorter. Whenever I go over minor bumps and holes on street, instead of a subtle "bump", I get a "BANG". I've never experienced this problem before the ball joint. I don't want to say if my shock is blown, but has anyone else experienced this problem with adj. ball joints? Could it be messing up my shock?
 

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iLLA said:
Well, I got a universal ball joint installed on the drivers side to minimize the camber. I had to get it done since the [email protected] at the State Ref said he couldnt put it on the rollers until the camber was fixed. Anyway...eversince I've got it, it seems as if my shock travel has got A LOT shorter. Whenever I go over minor bumps and holes on street, instead of a subtle "bump", I get a "BANG". I don't want to say if my shock is blown, but has anyone else experienced this problem with adj. ball joints?
there's very little clearance between the end of the upper control arm and the metal ridge in the wheel well. depending on how much camber you had to adjust for, it's possible that your upper control arm is hitting that ridge. it's pretty easy to bend with an adjustable wrench and/or vice grips for clearance. check for scratched paint on the tip of your upper control arm to see if that's what it is.
 

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An adjustable balljoint won't cause clearance problems with hte "ridge"... it raises the control arm mounting point ever-so-slightly, and if you car is slammed, it will cause the upper control arm to hit the underside of the shock tower.

The fix: Raise the car up a bit 8)
 

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ComposiMo said:
An adjustable balljoint won't cause clearance problems with hte "ridge"... it raises the control arm mounting point ever-so-slightly, and if you car is slammed, it will cause the upper control arm to hit the underside of the shock tower.

The fix: Raise the car up a bit 8)
true, i guess i was thinking of the adjustable bushings... i suppose it depends on what camber kit he's got. this is what i have:



they move the control arms outwards, and i had clearance issues. but if he's got the adjustable ball joint kind, then he'd have a different set of problems.
 

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The other thing I've seen people do is cut about a 1" hole out of the top of the stut tower to get a little more clearance. Wouldn't be the way I fix it, but it's another option.
 

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Tougeoni said:
Wouldn't be the way I fix it, but it's another option.
So why even offer it as an idea if you wouldn't do it?

To anyone reading and considering this option, please do not go cutting holes in your shock towers to allow clearance for your upper a-arms....

1.) it weakens the only area holding your car up off the ground. These chassis flex enough as it is, no need to add more flex to that by chopping the crap out of it. And no, the addition of a $15 strut bar won't make it "ok" to cut the tower either...

2.) You ruin the car for another potential buyer once you get tired of ghetto-rigging the car and want to move to something else. It is already hard enough to find good clean CRXs, no need to make it any harder for people.

8)
 

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I cut the strut towers on my ultralow crx project....i regretted it afte r afew weeks and wish i had never done it. it did however, fix my clearance problems.

:oops:

[email protected]
 

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ComposiMo said:
Tougeoni said:
Wouldn't be the way I fix it, but it's another option.
So why even offer it as an idea if you wouldn't do it?

8)
Just because I wouldn't do it doesn't mean it doesn't work. I wouldn't have my car so slammed that I would need to, and if I did I would raise it up or take the ball joint off. However not every one wants to do that. So as just another option I put it up. If done right the hole does not need to exeed more than an 1", in many cases just .5" . The hole is also usaly made in a section where a small cover can be welded in that will give the extra clearnce and still clear the hood. If done right it works perfectly fine. It's when people hack huge holes in the tower when it gets messed up.

As far as making it to ghetto to sell well then it's no differnt then people banging the piss out of the frame to make a B-series fit or even just putting stiffer suspension on. Both weaken the chassis.
 
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