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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm starting to think I'll never get this crap straight.
Katrina flood destroyed my ecu conv harness and p28, I bought another p28 from a junkyard and a friend bought me another ecu harness off ebay.
Installed it all again and it seems to run alright (not it's best but alright)
CEL from the begining, a second or two after start-up every time.
Now here's exactly whats written on the instructions from the harness for checking the codes:
SCS is used to check for sensor codes. A toggle switch can be placed between the YLW wire and BLK wire, or directly to a ground source. If you choose this option, keep the YLW wire covered so it does not make contact with anything that may activate the SCS.
I've hooked a switch between the 2 wires...nothing happens, key on or off.
I touched both ylw and blk wires to groung (at different times) one blew the ecu fuse (I thought I fried my new ecu that time) the other did nothing.
Also tried jumping the blue plug on the pass side kick panel, the one for timing adjustment, eng light only stayed on, no blinks at all.

The new conv harnes looks slightly different than the one I got from Andy Jones, that one was fine, no codes.

Any ideas before I give up on mini-me?
 

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what brand harness is it? the place here in town that Im getting my harness from and my ecu chipped showed me some bad harness. One a customer supplied, no name....all the pins were loose and falling out when he was driving. Maybe check for a loose wire?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's supposed to be a Skunk harness, Nothing seems loose and it looks like a decent quality one.
My main concern is how do I get the codes? Then I'll know a drection to look in for the problem.
 

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have you tried using the "timing" connector. The blue one below the heater blower (90-91) ? or on the top of the left shock tower (1988 1989)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Synoptic said:
have you tried using the "timing" connector. The blue one below the heater blower (90-91) ? or on the top of the left shock tower (1988 1989)
yup, that's the one where the eng light just stayed on, no blinks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Oh yeah, the car runs almost normally in every way all the way to the fuel cutoff.
It has a slight flat feeling spot in the lower rpm range that it didn't with the pm6. Like when you slow down to 10-20mph and give it gas to get going again in 2nd gear, it almost feels like a bog but not quite.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok I "May" have fixed the flat spot and not running "just right". I just remembered I never checked the timing after the obd1 swap again, just now went and checked it. It was pretty far retarded (like me) but I didn't get to go drive it yet, I'll find that out tonight.
Also the eng light is still on (I'd kinda hoped it would go away after the timing, even though I knew better).
But still my main concer is finding out HOW to check the codes, all my searching has found nothing.
Any one got a diagram or chart of the conversion wire places ont the ecu plugs? or just the stock placement for obd0 and obd1 wires?
 

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Showing my noob status to this stuff, but I'll ask anyway, what is the point of changing from obd0 to obd1 ?? :?:
 

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Ive been told the tuning options are more abundant with obd-1. Plus I think you can still smog one if it is still wired like factory, but im not sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ragnaarok said:
Showing my noob status to this stuff, but I'll ask anyway, what is the point of changing from obd0 to obd1 ?? :?:
Well I thought it was going to be the easy way to go vtec and mostly do it with stock honda parts, instead of a vafc or whatever.
Nothing usually goes easy for me... :roll:
Thanks for the scans, it looks mostly like tha one I got with mine.
I'm assuming to check for codes it's with the key on, it doesn't say on either.
Now I'm wondering if one or some of the wires on my harness might be accidently miss-pinned, Maybe I can compere what's left of my known good harness to this new one when I get the time.
Or if I can find some pin-outs...
 
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