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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How would you rate your CRX's paint ?
It's a nice repaint.26.90%
It's original, and looks fabulous.26.90%
It's original, and only has dents / chips.620.69%
It's original, and is faded / peeling.310.34%
I have a multi-colored car!310.34%
It could use a respray.931.03%
Other [explain]413.79%
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well now that I have some money from the accident I was in from January, I've decided to get my whole car professionally repainted, rather than just the local area involved in the crash. The mostly 17 year old Rio Red paint is looking pretty nasty.

Orange-red hood and fender, pink drivers side, and white spotted roof begone!

From people that have had their cars resprayed by shops (or otherwise), I have a few questions...

1. What should I look out for in the estimate, to make sure the shop isn't taking shortcuts or ripping me off ?

2. How many coats of paint / clear are good to get a original quality finish?

3. Obviously dents and chips will be a part of the body/paint job, but what other bodywork would be good to have done since the car will already be somewhat stripped down?

4. - Plus any other advice you might have.
Thanks a ton! :)
 

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I don't know too much as far as going to bodyshops go but I do know my rex could use a respray....I'm repainting the hood myself when my dads car is done and the garage is clear. And while I'm at it my dad is talking about fixing all the rust so he can show me how to do my own bodywork too. I do know that when you go to a bodyshop make sure they spend a lot of time on the prep work (or do it your self if you have the time and know how to). I've read a lot saying that the prep work is what makes a good paint job since most places use pretty much the same quality of paint unless you ask for something special.
 

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+1 on the need for good prep work.

FWIW, and I'm no expert....

First off, I'm thinking that I'm going to do anything I can think of first, before getting the paint job. I sure don't want to spend the money, and then wind up hurting the paint doing some work on the car myself.

I took mine by a place with a good rep and spent an hour or so talking to them about it. They weren't really interested in the work--according to the owner, they transitioned from doing general repaints to insurance claim work, since the turnover is faster and they can charge more. They also said those types of jobs take less space, since they don't have to keep track of all of the plastic and connectors. So they said they'd do it, but it would wind up costing me at least a grand more than if I went with a small shop.

They recommended an older local guy who's been doing this for years. He's not fast, doesn't work every day, so they said plan on leaving it there for a month or more. But the argument made sense for a complete repaint, since you don't want someone rushing through it. That's obviously not possible if your rex is your only ride, but then I think having at least one extra car is kind of a requirement if you have an older vehicle like a crx. I haven't talked to this guy yet, tho.

I've painted a couple of cars myself way back in the day, and the results were pretty nice, if I do say so myself. One issue to consider is whether you're keeping the original color--if you are, it's a lot less work since you don't have to redo areas like the inside of the door frames, the underside of the hood if it's in good shape, and all the other nooks and crannies. If you're changing colors, any of the old paint that shows through cracks or openings (like around the windows) will stand out really badly. The ones I shot, we pulled the hoods, trim, and things like the antennae, but left the window moldings and door handles. Then we sanded to primer all over (some areas to metal). Filled the dents, spayed a gray sandable primer, went over the whole thing really carefully, then shot two coats of black undercoat and three to four coats of clear, and wet sanded very lightly between coats. It's easier to get a good finish with more thinner coats, at least if you're not very good.

I think one thing to ask is how much taping they do normally. If you want a really top notch job, they won't tape much since they'll basically take off all the trim and moldings, everything that's not getting shot. That's probably worth paying for, since it will uncover any rust that you have going on under the trim. I'm definitely going that route myself, whether I do some of the prep work or pay for it all--I really don't want to drop a few grand on this and then have rust pop out from under some piece of trim in a couple of years. I remember when my dad got our suburban painted, basically they taped everything and only did a light sanding--it looked ok at a distance, but there were lots of spots where they didn't get the taping quite right, paint on the chrome, or a thin line of the older color popping out...

The other thing I'd look for is that the place is kept really clean. I used to paint houses, and it's absolutely amazing how easily dust and dirt on the floor winds up in the paint.

And, of course, you want to see some of their finished work. (;
 

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Sad to say,but my 17 y/o paint is fading bad.
My rex will have new paint by N13! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I went to the body shop today and got an estimate for the complete refinish / respray job. It's about $1400 after the insurance money is absorbed into the cost. I'll need to get a new sunroof panel, so that will add some cost. Also I'm searching for a spoiler (vt/sir/se type) 'cause I think they look good. I'm saving money because I'm taking most of the trim off myself, so they don't have to do that simple stuff and charge for it. They even want me to take the door handles off, so it seems they're just as much after a quality job as I am.

I'm still up in the air about getting the mirrors painted body color (r-63 rio red), I can't decide! I'm fairly certain I'm keeping the other trim black.

Also, I'm wondering about window trim, like around the windshield and especially around the quarter windows. They said they'd tape it off, because you can't remove it and reinstall without taking the window out. I thought you could...??

More on this developing story as it happens...
 

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Coming from someone who currently works at an automotive restoration facility....

Remove all trim, and remove all glass, and remove all seals from the doors. The door window frame should be painted black... make sure they don't paint the trim. New trim there is cheap, and is WELL worth the $$.

It'll cost close to $850 JUST to remove the glass (windshield, and rear 1/4 windows), and reinstall it using all OEM seals and clips purchased from Honda... do NOT allow the glass company, or the body shops glass company to reinstall the glass using their own trim, no matter HOW MUCH they insist that it is OEM... lol! Make sure they buy it from Honda if they do. Pay attention to this... i'm saying this a lot, because it is very important... you'll be thankful in the long run.

Remove the side trim, even if you are going to color match it! Painting over trim leaves bad paint under it... if you ever have to remove it, or change the piece, the paint lines may not line up exactly perfect... best to just remove them.. doesn't take much time.

Make sure that they actually remove the bumpers and such... any paint job worth payuing for will be painted with the car 'blown up'... doors off, bumpers off, hood off, etc... if they are spraying a heavy metallic, make sure they hang the items to spray them in the orientation they will be on the car... i.e. the doors should be painted standing up, not laying down.... even the gas door should be painted off the car, but it should be hanging in the exact orientation that it will be in on the car... otherwise the metalflake/pearl won't be in the same orientation.

Don't do your own prep... most painters will not be happy with it, and they will want to prep it themselves anyway, so you'll pay the same regardless.... the only REAL way to save money, is to do the teardown yourself... remove doorhandles, trim, seals, wipers, squirters, cowl piece, rear triangles, bumper covers, lower trim pieces on the sides, etc... do all that, and the place will thank you, and lower your bill.

HAVE PATIENCE! 98% of body shops can only do so much... if it is a quality job, it WONT be done in a week... if it is (or they say it will be), save your money and go elsewhere.

I'll be happy to answer any more questions on this stuff.... i've even considered doing a full and "proper" estimate on what it -should- cost to do a basic repaint at any decent body shop, since i've got a nice piece of estimating software here to use :)
 

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ComposiMo said:
Remove the side trim, even if you are going to color match it! Painting over trim leaves bad paint under it... if you ever have to remove it, or change the piece, the paint lines may not line up exactly perfect... best to just remove them.. doesn't take much time.
Another reason to remove the trim is that it tends to cause the paint to chip easier along there because it has an abrupt edge. Paint should always be sprayed around the edges to limit chipping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ComposiMo said:
I'll be happy to answer any more questions on this stuff.... :)
First off, thank you for that detailed response John; and thanks to everyone for the great info. Early this year I was going to do major work with my car, whether it was engine only, chassis only, or a cosmetic refresh. The minor accident made the choice for me.

What the shop is doing as far as the accident goes is:

Repair or replace rear bumper support beam and brackets
Replace rear bumper cover
Rework pass. quarter with a patch panel (current filler cracked in accident)
Paint local area

-- I'm still arguing with the insurance company of the guy who hit me to get money for all the damage, if it's not settled before I drop the car at the body shop, I'll have the shop get the rest of the dough.

Anyway, after the accident issues, I'm paying out of pocket for:

Refinish and paint entire car (with things like trim, lights, etc taken off)

The door window frame should be painted black... make sure they don't paint the trim.
I'll have to look into that, I don't think the metal frame is bad, but it can't hurt.

It'll cost close to $850 JUST to remove the glass (windshield, and rear 1/4 windows), and reinstall it using all OEM seals and clips
Ouch. I want to do every last thing right, but...wow. I think I'm going to get the quarter glass out, and new trim there. This is not so much about the paint, but the fact that trim looks nasty.
The windshield shows signs it is not original, and the trim looks pretty good there. Plus he showed they can stuff rope in between the windshield trim and body, and it lifts the trim away enough to spray under a bit.

Remove the side trim, even if you are going to color match it!
That's being removed for sure by myself.

I'll double check that the doors are coming off, that's one thing I don't recall for certain. Most everything else is being removed by me or the shop.

<---- Is excited about having a fresh look on the CRX.
 

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ComposiMo said:
It'll cost close to $850 JUST to remove the glass (windshield, and rear 1/4 windows), and reinstall it using all OEM seals and clips purchased from Honda... do NOT allow the glass company, or the body shops glass company to reinstall the glass using their own trim, no matter HOW MUCH they insist that it is OEM... lol! Make sure they buy it from Honda if they do. Pay attention to this... i'm saying this a lot, because it is very important... you'll be thankful in the long run.
Nice post.

Can you be more specific about why it's so important to remove the windshield and other glass, and why OEM parts are so important? I'm asking because I've heard a few horror stories about new windshields cracking, leaking etc....
 

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rex2nr: Good point, and very, very correct...

Ragnaarok: Whether the frame is bad or not, a fresh black coat over it would make it very nice, and wouldn't take much on the bodyshops behalf to accomplish.

The 'trim lift' technique that they showed you for the window trim is neat and all, but in my opinion, nowhere near good enough. They will still leave too little clear on in sections (usually near the trim edges), and too much in others... and with the trim there, it makes it nearly impossible to properly wet sand and buff the clear right next to the trim. And if they do get close, they wind up hitting it, and 'burning' the edges in spots, and it never looks the same...

But as with all things, there is a "right" way, a "wrong" way, and neither one costs the same... lol! Read ur sig... hehe.

bil: Removing the windshield and other glass allows the paint to be sprayed fully around the edges. It allows proper wetsanding and buffing to be done without hitting the trim. It also has the side benefit of (sorta) forcing you to install brand new trim and making that part of your car look spectacular as well.

Most of the "horror stories" i've heard of windshields cracking, is upon removal. If your glass guy is good, then he'll be able to remove the windshield without cracking it. If he sucks, then he'll break it. Our glass guy is good, and can easily pop a windshield without cracking it... your results may vary. But anyway, if you have a good guy, the reinstall will go much the same way... it'll be fine. The reason the OEM trim is so important is for looks and durability. Also, the OEM windshield trim has a slight groove up the sides that 'directs' water and other crap up and over the top of the car, rather than around the window... like if you used your squirters while going down the road, with your windows down, and cheapo-trim, the water will come into the car to visit you... haha! Also, the aftermarket trim looks like crap, is not durable, and is something that i would NEVER let anyone install on my cars. My yellow chassis has it on it from the previous owner, and i can't stand it. That will be one of the first things that gets done to it when i get around to finishing the car, is having the trim re-done.

For the 1/4 windows, same thing.... the OEM stuff is molded properly, looks RIGHT, and functions flawlessly. There are clips and such that hold down the glass, and other trim, and those things are all needed to make it "right"...

Anyway, one look at a CRX with aftermarket trim, and one look at one with brand new OEM trim, and you shouldn't have to read a single word of what i've said to make your mind up for you. The cost is not that great to do it compared to having to deal with what it looks like and functions like down the road.

But, if you're not picky, and you're a "cheap", "function over form" kind of person, which there are plenty of, then you won't care about the difference.... but then again, you probably wouldn't be repainting your car either, eh? :lol:
 

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ComposiMo said:
...
For the 1/4 windows, same thing.... the OEM stuff is molded properly, looks RIGHT, and functions flawlessly. There are clips and such that hold down the glass, and other trim, and those things are all needed to make it "right"...

Anyway, one look at a CRX with aftermarket trim, and one look at one with brand new OEM trim, and you shouldn't have to read a single word of what i've said to make your mind up for you. The cost is not that great to do it compared to having to deal with what it looks like and functions like down the road.

But, if you're not picky, and you're a "cheap", "function over form" kind of person, which there are plenty of, then you won't care about the difference.... but then again, you probably wouldn't be repainting your car either, eh? :lol:
That latter bit is the problem, I am more of a function over form guy--and that how I let the rust get started, and the paint fade. ):

But since I want to keep the car, and I don't want to have to do this again with this car anyway, I'd like to get it all right even if it's extra work or money--not perfect, but very good.

Don't let me pester you, but I have a few other questions.

What do you think would be the downside of removing the quarter glass molding like this (from the "what did you do today thread)":



I like the look of it--my rabbit's quarter glass is basically set up the same way.

And can you remove/replace the windshield trim molding without taking out the windshield? From the shop manual, it looks like you could take it out, but not reinstall it per honda's proc....

Regarding the trim, when you say don't get it painted, do you mean both rubber door guards and the lower plastics? Or can the lower plastics be painted or dyed well? Mine are mostly in good shape, but the rubber trim is showing it's age less than gracefully.

What should I expect for cost in terms of replacing the trim, and where should I look for it (I'm guessing majestic would be one source)?

Thanks for this information, it's been very helpful....[/img]
 

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Rustoleum gloss white....for the time being. It's held up pretty well for about a year since I've rolled it. But a pro sprayed satin gun metallic silver or satin black are the plans for my rex sometime in the far distant future. :wink:
 
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