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9,754 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well the autocross season here in the Northeast is just around the corner, this forum gets far too little traffic, I'll have a new setup, and I'm bored... so here's a post to get some traffic over here. I encourage everyone to start a thread with your setup, it's cool to see what everyone is running, be sure to post your class (SCCA) as well.

Here's my old setup from the fall, I've made/am making some changes.

The setup this second as the car sits, I'm running in SM2 again:

Wheels, Tires, Brakes:
CRX Si wheels, 14x5"
195/60-R14 Falken Azenis RT-615
38 psi rear, 35 psi front (on the 215s I ran 40 up front)
Powerslot rotors and EBC Green stuff all around

Front Suspension:
550 lb/in Eibach linear springs on Ground Controls
Koni Yellows very soft
Lowered until the LCAs are just about level
0 Toe
-3* camber
stock Si sway

Rear Suspension
650 lb/in Eibach linear springs on Ground Controls
Koni Yellows very stiff
Again, lowered until the LCAs are near level
0 toe
-2.5* camber
Stock Si Sway bar

A6/Y8 mini-me
Crower Stage 2 street/strip (non-turbo) cam
AEM cam gear
DC 4-2-1 Ceramic Header
Z6 intake manifold/OBD2 injectors
Custom 2.5" exhaust, resonator and muffler
AEM 3" Cold Air intake from 2000 Civic Si with K&N filter
ACT HDSS clutch/PP
ACT Streetlite 12lb Flywheel
Energy Suspension Poly motor mount inserts, shifter bushings
Tuned with Crome
New 2/4 Gauge grounding wires
8mm JR (made by magnecor I believe) plug wires
OEM NGK plugs

ES Poly bushings through whole car
Full interior minus the carpet and non-bolted down items
No AC (I live in the Northeast, and this car never had it)
Radio removed with OEM block off plate (not required in SM2)
PC680 battery in cargo box
MOMO 300mm steering wheel with MOMO hub and NRG Quick Release
Stock Si Seats/belts
amp in the cargo box, a few extra pounds
skunk2 weighted knob
VIS ZC carbon hood

And going in soonly:

Fastline Performance RR shifter
new engine, mini-me with 12.6:1 compression, reworked oil etc
new wheels (read on...)

So, not too much has changed, but the feel of the car definitely has. Removing the SPC arms and resetting the toe to 0 made it more neutral, I get a hint of *gasp* understeer on the Ziex, we'll see what happens with the Azenis. I may set the toe out slightly in the rear for autocrosses only, the courses at RPI are so tight having a loose rear end seems to help a lot. Using a larger sway bar in the rear might help that, but setting the toe is free... and it doesn't rattle! Once I set it and mark it it's a simple matter of throwing the car on the lift for a few minutes and changing it back and forth. I'm also thinking about getting a rear strut tower brace. Though I'm not sure it will help me out the way I want, it also has the benefit of holding the subwoofer in place when I'm on the street :p .

For the wheels, I sold the HXs recently, and I'm not sure which way I want to go next. Most aftermarket wheels are 15s, but I have 2 sets of 14" tires, and I go through them kind of fast so the cheaper 14s are still attractive. Any suggestions? For aftermarket, I love the sw388 style (definitely can't throw down for the real thing) even though everyone hates on them. I also like Panasports... I don't know why but I think they are one of the best looking wheels out there. Again, can't afford the real deal probably so I'd opt for Konigs or something similar.

I also have the aluminium wheels I got from FSAE, but I only have 3. Also, they are 4x114, but I think I could get the centers re-drilled/replaced, Keizer even offered to redrill them at $40/wheel. I haven't been able to ID the wheels, I was looking for a fourth, but the guys at FSAE don't know (they were on the 99 car or something, nobody from then is around) and Keizer said they aren't theirs (I was told by said guys that they were probably Keizer). The benefit of these is that I can run on cheap takeoffs from FSAE, I already have a bunch of them. They were going to sell me the BBS wheels that bolted right up, but the alumni killed that before I could get them.

I'm also thinking about sending in the Konis to get re-valved and shortened, or maybe even getting some new ones and selling mine. I have the older ones that aren't externally adjustable, and I'd like more shock travel too. I know I *could* get the GC top hats or something, but I don't really want to do that because I don't feel that it's the right way to attack the problem.

The new motor will hopfully put down over 160hp, I'm planning a little more long term to get a limited slip, once I have a post-college job secured. I know the Quaife is really popular, but what else is out there? I've been told clutch type LSDs are better (like the Kaaz). I know the motor isn't really something I need for autocross, it's got plenty to get me through the course and then some at my skill level, but it's also my street/daily/only car.

The club races here at RPI should start soon, I think tomorrow we should have the final dates. That means that in the next 5 or 6 weeks we will have 3 events, and then the local SCCA here in NY will start up on the 28th (missing that one for TapNY). We'll also get to go kill some Porsches again in May for the PCA meet. I'll probably be home in NH for late summer and hit the New England region events too... I hope it's a busy year, I'll finally be working a real job and have some cash to put toward it.

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690 Posts
There has been some discussion about the poly bushings on another board regarding the life span of them...just thought I would throw that out there. Something to check periodically. I have the master set from ES on my CRX and love it, the only thing I may change is going back to the rubber for the rear trailing arm. The reason being is the car is not as progressive towards the point of oversteer, I am sure the extra weight up front doesn't help me any either.
I have a Quaife LSD and love it. Haven't used a clutch type before. From what I understand the clutchtype's will require regular maintainence as they wear, so keep the down time and replacement parts in the equation. Quaife has that great warrenty too, can't beat it.

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9,754 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, I keep an eye on the bushings, they are a little old. A couple of them are starting to crack on the flanges, but they're holding up well. I have rubber on the TAs, everything was installed by the previous owner and he knew what he was doing.

I don't mind doing maintenance on the LSD if it's better, and from what I understand it's not that frequent anyway.

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3 Posts
my 89 crx si setup for this year autox

stock D16a6
jrsc 8lbs

front suspension
Tokico Illuminas fostest setting
Eibach Sportline springs
no front sway bar
front camber kit

rear suspension
Tokico Illuminas hardest setting
Eibach Sportline springs
rear camber kit
rear bushing set

· Registered
3,005 Posts
Have you driven with toe-out in the rear? I know that, in my "other car", it can get pretty exciting. Higher speeds are worse than low (autoX) speeds in that respect. Freeways and, in particular, the Big Track should be approached with caution.

I haven't seen pics or anything, but could the wheels be Jongbloed? (Not sure of the spelling; it's pronounced "young blood" but starts with a J.) They (he?) make very high-quality wheels in custom sizes/offsets/bolt patterns.


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248 Posts
Your set up sounds really, really pushy. I've run my car with a similar set up (same springs, similar alignment) and it was pushy... and I had an ST 22mm bar on full stiff with an HF front bar! I can't imagine how much push you must have with the stock sway bars.

My advice is to get a ST rear bar.

Basically if your rear end isn't dancing around in slaloms and scooting around on corner entry, the car is going to be slow and putting power down on corner exit is going to be impossible.

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9,754 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wow.. this is really old!

Umm I've had the LCAs like that since, car handles great and the rear end has a mind of its own like glagola describes. I also added a Neuspeed 22mm rear bar for the last event out here, I was worried it would make the tail TOO happy, but it actually feels a lot more predictable now (to me anyway).

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4 Posts
hello, I'm new to this forum hope to learn a lot...

I've just purchased a CRX SI ...nice car ... slow corner handling is impresive, I used to race a Swift GTI, a Starlet GT Turbo and neither of those cars have de corner handling this car has, I race at a small track with very sharp corners....

since I'm starting my setup is very simple everything Stock but Ebay type Coil Overs seemed to work very fine

also -1.5* camber on front tires and 1* in the back

I'm still getting penty of under steer on the car what should I go for to getting the tail a little more responsive? still with stock sway bars, also no front strut bar, is it really worth it? the one that goes over the engine...? also heard a good investment is the bar that joins the back Lower control arms...

what tire pressure is everybody using? I startes with 30 front 28 back with cold tires...

runing threadwear 200 in front 240 on back, 185/55/R14 for all 4 tires...

I'll post a couples of pics of the car and videos of the track if you want to...


· Registered
133 Posts
1989 crx si
scca sts2 class

Tokico 5 way adjustable shocks - full soft in front, full stiff in rear

ground control coliovers 400f , 450r - this may not be best, may want 450f 400r

Suspension Techniques rear sway bar- full stiff

f&r strut tower bars

falken azenis rt-615

I'm going testing this weekend and this may change, i've got the stock front sway bar on the car now, but i need to take that off, it's not nearly loose enough.
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