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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's my dilemma. I'm very much wanting to get rid of my auto/dpfi, I've been tolerating it for more than 5 years now. I never did the MPFI swap on the premise that I would save money and do a full swap all at once. But that keeps getting pushed back, and frankly I'm tired of waiting. I could afford a B16 swap, with the auto-manual conversion, and have it done in time for the Florida meet. Or, wait a couple extra months and go with a GSR swap early next year. I'm actually eyeing a 180hp JDM GSR swap, since it's the same price on HMO. So I guess the question is, will I be satisfied with a B16 (compared to my D15B2 I guess anything would be fantastic), or should I wait for the B18C?
 

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If its only a matter of waiting I'd say go b18.
Maybe a lil less RPMs but more torque= fun in my book. :D
 

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JDM GSR FTW. And go with the LSD option, you wont regret it for a second, as for lower RPMs, I take my JDM B18C to 8 grand, I dont think you can go any higher w/a standard B16.
On the upside for the B16 though you have whats probably one of the best balanced motors ever made, and if you do decide to go with it, get one that has the YS1 transmission, it has a much lower final drive than the OBD0 versions, which translates into having much better fuel economy, and for the record, the JDM GSR trans also has a really good cruising final drive as well.
 

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mattminerDOTcom said:
B18C > B16A...for the win.

The GSR motor really is significantly better then the B16. If you think you can do it, go for it. I havent been dissapointed yet.

[email protected]
30-40 increase in torque is nothing to take lightly. It makes it "feel" like a lot more power in regular driving around from a stop. I'm not sure it translates into dramatically better 1/4 mile times though. The GSR is the b18c1 right with not as high compression and Hp as the C5?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Richrowa said:
mattminerDOTcom said:
B18C > B16A...for the win.

The GSR motor really is significantly better then the B16. If you think you can do it, go for it. I havent been dissapointed yet.

[email protected]
30-40 increase in torque is nothing to take lightly. It makes it "feel" like a lot more power in regular driving around from a stop. I'm not sure it translates into dramatically better 1/4 mile times though. The GSR is the b18c1 right with not as high compression and Hp as the C5?
Right, the B18C1 is from the USDM 94-2001 Integra GSR. 170hp, 121 lb-ft. 10.1 compression.
The B18C5 from the USDM 97-2001 Type R is 195hp, 130 lb-ft. 10.6 compression.
The JDM GSR I'm looking at is just stamped as B18C in typical JDM fashion, but it's not as much power as the JDM Type R B18C. 180hp, 126 lb-ft. 10.6 compression. I think it's a deal at $2700 for engine trans and ecu, and I do believe I'll wait for it. And of course I'll get the LSD option for an extra $300.
The JDM Type R B18C is 200hp, 134 lb-ft. 11.1 compression, but I don't think it's worth $4500 for just engine trans and ecu.
The B16A is of course 160hp, 111 lb-ft. 10.2 compression. It's somewhat of a bargain at just $1200, but I want more power! :twisted:

Matt, what other mods have you done to your GSR?
 

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Get the B18C or C1, and not the C5 or B18C-R.
The difference in cash will get you a set of buddyclub spec3 cams, an intake manifold and maybe a nice tune.

You'll spank the crap out of those overpriced R motors.
The only edge they have, is a slightly better flow, and lighter rods. The rest is just minor stuff. I won't go into details and specifics. Lotsa technical talk.
 

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That's mainly because of the higher RPM's.

This is one of those technicalities. Yes...it's a slightly better oil pump. But keep in mind that honda always over-engineers the type-R motors for longevity. You can swap alot of the type-R parts over onto other B series motors.
I can give you countless of examples of fully built GSR motors that run without ever having issues at all.

In fact, the slightly more advantagous setup of the GSR motor makes it often times preferred for build projects. The P72 head with it's rectangular combustion chambers turns out to be really great with aftermarket pistons and combustion patterns.

Most of the type-R motors are 8-12 years old. There has been an awful lot of research done in the last 4-5 years that drastically changed the honda motor scene.
 

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hasport is great stuff, but why spend more money just for the name? A friend of mine got the innovative hydro EF mount kit from password on his hatch and says it actually works better than some hasport swapped cars hes driven before:
http://www.passwordjdm.com/product.asp? ... &PT_ID=291

not bad for 330 bucks! and you can put the money you save into other things...
 

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bah, screw the b20, i vote against that. building a GSR motor is great. you start with a motor that is meant to rev high and make power, has things like oil squirters to help with longetevity.

to answer your question, motor wise here is my motor setup:
USDM B18C1 with Hydro Transmission
High 10:1 compression (have to exactly calc it, somewhere around 10.7)
Fresh Reassembled GSR Head
Modified OEM Head Gasket
Skunk2 Stage2 Camshafts
ITR Valvesprings, Lost Motion Aseemblies, and retainers
Skunk2 Cam Gears
Outlaw Engineering Thermal Spacer
Skunk2 Intake Manifold (port matched by me)
BBK 68mm Matched Throttle Body
Custom 'AEM' Intake (made from 99 Si CAI)
Z10 Breather Box Plug and Custom Crankcase Evacuation Setup
CTR N1 Endurance Crank Pulley
All new OEM timing components
Modified ITR Oil Pump
Magnecore Wires
NGK Plugs
Trust 4-2-1 Header
Mr Gasket Copper Gasket
Random Tech Cat
Custom 2.5" exhaust with 28" resonator and magnaflow tip
Hasport EFB2 Mounts and Linkages
RyWire Conversion Harness and modified engine harness
Crome Powered P28 with RTP and Datalogging
Innovate LC1 W02
ACT XTSS Clutch
Fidanza Prolight Flywheel

I think thats it for the motor itself. I also have a bad starter haha.
I need to install my SMSP Race Header, 330cc injectors,(which are just waiting for me to install them) and start working on my ITBs :twisted:

I also NEED to get some sort of an LSD, either factory or quaife.

also, seti, whats this you say about short shifter eating synchros? Ive had a SS on every CRX Ive had since '00 and have never had this issue...I assumed mos tpeople eating synchros was from bad maintainence and bad driving

Oh and for reference, the motor put down 155whp bone stock with 100k on it in my GSR, and was up about 30whp with the mods listed above besides the higher compression and tuning. I hope that with more tuning, and my SMSP header i can break 200whp.
 
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