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What do I need for the B20/Vtec swap other than a B20 block and b16 head and vtec conversion kit? Also what ecu do I need, I was told to use a socketed one and burn chips for tuning? What would I need to do for wiring, can I use the stock harness? I have the B series swap mounts and some linkage already, I have a B18A currently in my CRX. I'm just going to use all stock internals, what's my rev limit? I heard you shouldn't rev them too high for some reason? What type of HP and Torque can I expect? Any estimates on a 1/4 mile time, It's a HF where the hatch is gutted. Any info would be great.

Thanks, Brandon.
 

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I can answer some of your questions.
ECU P28 is best. Obd1 harness conversion is easy plug and play if you don't already have it.
You tune with chips or better yet, Hondata, Chrome etc. I have Hondata and love it.
You can leave stock internals but it is recommended to use ARP rod bolts.
This seems to be a weak point. Compression is up a bit over stock B20 8.8 to I think 9.0 but I would have to look it up.
Rev limit about 8000 I think.
Get ready for spinning your wheels, lots more torque. I don't know the numbers off hand.
Civics and REX's I have personally seen in Portland run mid to upper 12 second 1/4 miles with slicks. Very fun car to drive.
You of course would need intake and exhaust manifold. I don't know if the b18a's fit on a b16 head??? Someone here I am sure does.
As for adding boost, there are severe limitations with this block. You can go to 7-10 lbs with tuning and have a very good durable engine. Anything more than that is verboden. This is what I am in the middle of right now. When I get more into it I will share some pics. I am also adding DSM 450cc injectors
 

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your going to need a ls/b20 vtech kit from inline four.
i am pretty sure your going to need the b16 head gasket
axles
shift linkage
motor mount kit
ecu
if obd1 your going to need a conversion harness for ecu and dizzy
b16 clutch kit

this is all that i can think of right now. ill ask my friends who is doing a ls/vtech 98 civic auto to manual swap also.
and my other friend who is doing a b20/vtech in a crx
 

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B20/LSVTEC FAQ & Parts List
How to build a "RELIABLE" lsvtec/b20vtec guide

Richrowa said:
Compression is up a bit over stock B20 8.8 to I think 9.0 but I would have to look it up.
The B20s actually came in many cars with 3 different compression ratios,
So the compression ratio with a VTEC head would have to be calculated accordingly.

Taken from here:

USDM:
96-98 Honda CRV
126 HP, 133 ft/lbs TQ
compression: 8.8:1

99-00 Honda CRV
146 HP, 133 Ft/lbs TQ
compression: 9.6:1

JDM B20B's (taken from Japan's Honda website):
96-98 Honda Orthia
143 HP, 132 ft/lbs TQ
9.2:1 compression

96-98 Honda Step Wagon
123 HP,133 ft/lbs TQ
9.2:1 compression

99-00 Honda Step Wagon
134 HP, 136 ft/lbs TQ
9.6:1 compression

96-98 Honda CRV (two variants)
128 HP, 136 ft/lbs TQ
8.8:1 compression
143 HP, 132 ft/lbs TQ
9.2:1 compression

99-00 Honda CRV
148 HP, 136 ft/lbs TQ
9.6:1 compression

96-98 Honda SM-X
128 HP, 135 ft/lbs TQ
8.8:1 compression

99-00 Honda SM-X
138 HP, 137 ft/lbs TQ
9.6:1 compression

All 99-00 B20's have a knock sensor, regardless of where it comes from, which signifies the high compression 9.6:1 motor. If your B20 does NOT have a knock sensor, it is not the 9.6:1 compression motor.

Good luck
 
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