See if your getting rational O2 sensor voltages at the ECU. Back probe the ECU connector to pick up the O2 signal and a sensor ground. A straightened paper clip makes a good probe and use tape to stabilize it in place. Take the car for a drive and warm it up. Run for a few seconds at about 4K RPM then lift the throttle to coast down in gear. When coasting down the ECU cuts the injectors until you drop below 1500 RPM. When the injectors cut off it’s as lean as it will ever be and the O2 signal should drop well below 0.4V. At wide open throttle the ECU goes open loop and runs straight off the fuel map so should be rich indicated by greater then 0.5V.
Passing these test would show a healthy sensor, solid wiring, and good sensor ground. It should also show if the fuel system can deliver enough fuel to run rich under heavy load.
Here is a good link for details of the O2 sensor operation and testing.
The code 14 indicates an EACV issue so perhaps there is an interaction there. Does it have a high idle when cold and slow to a stable low idle when warm? The EACV will foul with carbon over time. The most common symptom of this is a surging idle but low cold idle or stalling when cold would also be indicators.
How confident are you with the ground junction at the thermostat? Since the engine is running well I doubt this is the problem but it is a more complex connection then it would seam. Did each of the ring terminals get a good cleaning? Any corrosion on the block or thermostat housing can interfere with most of the sensor signals. When replacing the thermostat I carefully remove all corrosion from the mounting surfaces of the block and housing then degrease before assembly.
Mike