[therobesons]

It seems to idle fine when it first warms up but after driving about 1/2 hour or so is when the idle starts bounceing.

Before it bounces it seems to idel about 700 rpm.

But when bounceing it does that between 1000 and 1200 at least as far as I can tell on the factory tack.

Any other ideas?

TIA

Bob

 

[dohcrxl]

Did you wait til the engine reached normal operating temperatures before you bled the system? If not, the bleed wasn't thorough. Do it again. Remember the t-stat has to be open to achieve an optimal bleeding.

According to your first thread about this problem, it didn't occur until after you changed the thermostat. This being the case, it most likely is a bleeding issue. Beyond that, I'd adjust the base idle and see if this helps any. To do so, unplug the iacv (the cylindrical component attached to the back of the intake manifold) and warm up the car then adjust the idle screw on the throttle body. I like 750 rpm myself.

 

['9445]

The shop manual says: loosen the bleed bolt, then fill the radiator to the bottom of the filler neck. Tighten the bleed bolt as soon as coolant starts to run out in a steady stream without bubbles. Then with radiator cap OFF, start the engine and let it run until warmed up (fan goes on at least twice). If necessary add more coolant mix to bring the level back up to the bottom of the filler neck.

As it's running with the cap off, you can keep topping it off as bubbles come out into the radiator tank.

Check for an ecu code if bleeding still doesn't fix it, you might have a bad TW (water temp) sensor ... that happened to me once. Idle would go kinda nuts for a while, then check engine light would eventually come on and I guess it would ignore the sensor because at that point the idle would go back to normal. This didn't really make the idle bounce like you are describing though, it would go up over 2500.