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I've wired certain front lights on other cars (like my old Integra) to come on without the headlights like that, usually just a matter of providing a constant 12V to a wire to trick the lights into thinking that the headlights are on...but that's when they have a separate switch, these are just on the headlight multiswitch, so I dunno how hard it is. Search honda-tech, I'm sure someone has done it. Obviously they aren't nearly bright enough to do any good as foglights, it's purely for looks...but it does look cool. Just make sure you manage to wire it so your corner lights still function as turn signals.
 

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The stock bulbs are 27 watts each IIRC. Fog lights are generally 55 watts each. Also, the light pattern from the turn signals is aimed too high to be useful as fog, or even driving lights. If you just want the marker-light look, dual filament sockets from newer Hondas seem to fit perfectly:
 

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I used '97 Accord corner light sockets, actually. Like I said, they fit the CRX bumper housings perfectly (even the little lock/unlock arrows line up), but use a different electrical connector. I like this one better actually, it's smaller, easier to unplug and has actual seals instead of packed grease. As for wiring, the color codes were identical IIRC, except it gives you an extra red/blk wire that you tap into the corner light wiring. Anywhere you see a red/blk wire in the car, it's fused power from the parking lights contact of the lighting switch. Running the wire through the loom as it should be only means unwrapping a foot or two of harness.


 

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i like this mod alot however shouldnt it be in the modification or electrics section? thats not the reason i posted tho.. wouldnt it be nicer to switch the wiring from the side markers to the bumper and move the blinkers to the side markers(ie the corner lights) i dunno thats how i would do it. extend the wiring where needed.
 

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zerocool1014a said:
wouldnt it be nicer to switch the wiring from the side markers to the bumper and move the blinkers to the side markers(ie the corner lights)
... What?
In stock form, the side marker light (the rear-most light on the US corner light) alternates blinking with the bumper light. Are you saying to simply switch them around, so the bumper light stays on and the side marker is off most of the time? You might also consider just running the bumper light in paralel with the side marker, so they're both on or off at the same time (mostly on).
The potential problem I see with both of those is that the side marker relay (built into the integrated control unit) might not be designed to handle the additional 9+ times the wattage you would be drawing through it. Stock, the much higher wattage bumper light is driven directly by the flasher/signal switch, while the side marker has a relay to make it alternate when appropriate.
 

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halloweenkid said:
hey i saw this on a crx awhile back and decide to go with this istead of fogs.
The bumper light will not give off enough light and is not even aimed correctly to compensate for a true fog or driving light.

Never seen it personally, so i cannot confirm or deny this, but I've heard/read of folks wiring the bumper light like this and having the housing melt?
 

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baker423 said:
Never seen it personally, so i cannot confirm or deny this, but I've heard/read of folks wiring the bumper light like this and having the housing melt?
I suppose it could happen if you install a higher wattage bulb (I've heard of 9005s being put in there), but I ran my car with the bumper lights as "running lights" with 1157 bulbs for 3 years, and never encountered a problem.

I didn't know about using newer Honda sockets though, so I had Autozone universal sockets siliconed in place. When I did my SiR front end I was tired of dealing with that, so I just reverted to stock wiring.
 

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on my first gen the bumper lights are on all the time and it doesnt look like anyone messed with it .And i never had any trouble with it melting ,but that could be because 1st gen and 2nd gens have diffrent lenses.

but when you guys do this doesnt it mess with the hazards and blinkers or do you guys not have them on the bumper ????
 

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phatboycrxhf said:
but when you guys do this doesnt it mess with the hazards and blinkers or do you guys not have them on the bumper ????
That's why you use a dual filament bulb when doing this , which allows the bulb to blink when turning and to be on.

Found this little writeup on the interweb.

How to keep your bumper lights on at all times or to simulate Daytime Running Lights(DRLs).



A quick wiring diagram. This setup wired as shown will allow your bumper lamps to be on with your head lights. The extra relay connected to the high-beams will shut them off when you click on the high-beams. You don't have to use this function.

1)
You can remove the high beam relay without bothering the circuit. It's just there if you wanna simulate the bumper lights being fog lights. DOT regs in most states require that your fog lights switch off when your high beams come on. Though I doubt most places that inspect car are gonna care about it. You can subsitute any 12v switched source for the high beam trigger if you wish to be able to turn your park/DRL lights off. Most GM vehicals DRL shut off when the parking break is pressed, it wouldn't be that hard to integrate this feature into the circuit.

2)
If you want the circuit on with your park lights, all thats necessary is that you switch the low beam 12v signal to a 12v signal from your park lights. For the Daytime Running light approach wire the aforementioned circuit to an "ON with igniton" source. Basically any 12v source can be used on this leg of the circuit as the trigger for your lights to come on.

3)
The reason the low filiment is used for the park light function is b/c if you wouldn't be able to see turn signal if it was wired to the high filiment.

4)
The reason this setup uses relays is that the stock wiring system won't support more load on the park light system w/o just not working at all. You could staight wire the bulbs to the head lights

OR

4b) Wiring the lights directly to the parking light circuit will work fine too. The low filaments of dual filament bulbs are 2-3 watts (depending on model). That's a max of 6 watts total, or 0.5 amps. If the lighting system is running so close to it's limit that it can't handle another half amp, IMO the whole lighting system should be re-wired for the safety of the car.

5) You can pick the relays up at your local radio shack. The sockets are just std 1157 dual filiment bulb sockets, easy place to source them from would be from the tail lights of most Honda's or corner light sockets from newer Hondas fit perfectly and have better than stock weather seals.
 

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baker423 said:
4)
The reason this setup uses relays is that the stock wiring system won't support more load on the park light system w/o just not working at all. You could staight wire the bulbs to the head lights but I didn't think that was very safe or clean.

5) You can pick the relays up at your local radio shack. The sockets are just std 1157 dual filiment bulb sockets, easy place to source them from would be from the tail lights of most Honda's.
4) Wiring the lights directly to the parking light circuit has worked fine for me. I could understand being concerned if you were adding bulbs with a new high filament somewhere, but the low filaments of dual filament bulbs are 2-3 watts (depending on model). That's a max of 6 watts total, or 0.5 amps. If the lighting system is running so close to it's limit that it can't handle another half amp, IMO the whole lighting system should be re-wired for the safety of the car.

5b) All of the Honda tail light bulb sockets I've seen are meant to be internal to the car... Meaning they have no weather seals. As I pictured above, corner light sockets from newer Hondas fit perfectly and have better than stock weather seals.
 
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