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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally, after about 4 months without my beloved CRX, I have it back. It's got a stock D15B2. But (there's always a "but" isn't there?) it is running pretty rough. It idles at about 1200-1500 rpm after initial start up but once I get moving, it will want to die in between gear shifts. It's died at stop signs, traffic lights and on the highway during stop and go traffic. After it dies, I'll restart it and the engine will idle at about 1500 rpm and then surge like crazy again. I noticed I have 2 hoses missing from the charcoal canister and 2 hoses missing from the back of the intake manifold (under that black round DPFI thingy). Is it safe to assume these are all connected somehow and this is the reason my engine is idling the way it is? Thanks!
 

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If you are missing vacume hoses from the Intake, that would explain the high idle. Whats happening is that air isnt being blocked by the throttle body. More air=highRPM. As for the vacume lines themselves, check to see if anything is missing a connection. I would get a manual with a vacume diagram. Or else take a picture. There is a device on the firewall. Its a little black thing with some electrical wires. Make sure that is connected to the IM by a vacume line and that it is connected elecricaly. I dont know what it is, but i know the car dosnt run without it.
 

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I believe you are referring to a MAP sensor,and yes the car WILL run very funny without that hooked up properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Alright. I took some pics so hopefully this will get some type of response...

As stated above, I have been having idling issues since I got my CRX back, and it's been pissing me off. I'm also experiencing bad gas mileage, like 200 miles per tank full. Also, my reverse lights aren't going on.

First pic is of the charcoal canister and circled in red are the fittings that are missing hoses.


Next pic is the back of the intake manifold with the fittings missing hoses also in red.


I'm assuming the fittings on the back of the IM connect with the fittings on the charcoal canister. Do I need to connect them or can I plug them up and if I can plug them, what do I plug them with? And in doing so, whether it's attaching hoses or plugging up the fittings, will this solve my idling and gas mileage issues?

Next pic is the Reverse Light Switch wires. Does the yellow wire from the switch (circled in yellow) connect with the yellow wire coming from the harness (circled in red)? And where the hell does the black/green wire (circled in green) connect to?I don't see any wires that it could connect to?


Last but not least is the final image....what the hell is this for? I found it tucked near the firewall to the left of the charcoal canister.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This is a pic of my firewall. AS you can see, I've got my charcoal canister, MAP sensor but I believe I'm missing a purge solenoid or something like that.



According to the underhood vacuum diagram, there should be a purge solenoid thing where the red hose connects to the firewall. Or am I mistaken? Also, what does that plug near the MAP sensor plug in to? And where should the MAP sensor connect to as I know it doesn't just hang there.

I also connected my vacuum lines from the TB to the MAP sensor and the charcoal canister but my idle is still surging from 1250-1500 RPM. Gas consumption is better but not like it used to be. I should've just searched for a damn D16 to swap into my CRX instead of swapping another D15B2 in there. Oh well....There's always next time.
 

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the purge solenoid mounts to the right of the map sensor. the hanging electrical connector next to your map sensor plugs into the purge solenoid. the one nipple left on your charcoal canister runs into the solenoid and then another runs out of the solenoid into your intake manifold. i think this somehow vents gases back into the engine to be burned. i just took mine off and threw it away along with the charcoal canister. i can dig around for the purge solenoid if you want it for shipping costs, just PM me. it was off of a D16A6 though...should be the same i'm guessing.

did you reset your ECU once you got the map sensor hooked back up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Dren said:
the purge solenoid mounts to the right of the map sensor. the hanging electrical connector next to your map sensor plugs into the purge solenoid. the one nipple left on your charcoal canister runs into the solenoid and then another runs out of the solenoid into your intake manifold. i think this somehow vents gases back into the engine to be burned. i just took mine off and threw it away along with the charcoal canister. i can dig around for the purge solenoid if you want it for shipping costs, just PM me. it was off of a D16A6 though...should be the same i'm guessing.

did you reset your ECU once you got the map sensor hooked back up?
I did reset my ECU after I got the map hooked back up. I just took the hazard fuse from the under hood fuse box out and then put it back in after 10 seconds or so right?

I'm pretty sure I can find a purge solenoid around here. I'll PM you if I don't. Seeing as you got rid of yours as well as your charcoal canister, how did you plug up the nipples on the TB? What effect does not having the charcoal canister and purge solenoid on the engine? Do I really need them then if they are cuasing me so much idling problems? Thanks!
 

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progress said:
What effect does not having the charcoal canister and purge solenoid on the engine? Do I really need them then if they are cuasing me so much idling problems? Thanks!
It's just an emissions device - the evaporative emissions system. Fuel vapors from the gas tank enter via the red hose and collect in the charcoal canister. The vapors are burned when the valve (the flat thing on top of the canister) is opened by a vacuum signal. The smaller top connection of the valve is the control port... It should be connected to a solenoid (the 2-pin connector is right there from the looks of it) which switches between manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure. The larger bottom port carries fuel vapors to the intake manifold to be burned... There's normally a red braided hose there, but anything that can handle fuel vapor and vacuum should be fine.
You'll probably fail inspection without it, but I've never gone through PA inspection, so whatever.
 

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I've been having this same problem, but I have a d15B1 that was swapped into DX (don't ask... i didn't know this when I bought it).

So i'll look into this.

Question about reseting the ECU... what does that do? How does one do it?

Is the ECU the same for the B1, and the B2 engines?

I get just as about 200 miles to a tank as well... so it's frustrating with such a weak engine >.<
 

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As I understand it, the D15B1 is just a D15B2 with a close-coupled catalytic converter. Meaning the cat is bolted to the front of the engine like it is with the HF, as opposed to being mounted on the end of the down-pipe under the car. It also uses a different ECU, but should run just fine with a D15B2 ECU... D15B1 = PM9, D15B2=PM5.
Resetting the ECU clears any stored error codes and supposedly effects engine performance in some form... Don't ask me for specifics. Simply remove the hazard lights fuse from the under-hood fuse box for 10 seconds.
 
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