A while back we had a little discussion about synthetic oils and their additives. I finally got around to uploading the pics I took of the Castrol Syntec European version that I use...
You notice the lack of a round seal thing stamped on the front label and of course the Euro labeling on it.
Looks like it has an API spec of "SL/CF"? If so, that is a couple of cycles of specification before the current ones. And that's a Good Thing, IMHO, for engines with "flat" tappets. Like ours. It should have more high-pressure additives (like ZDDP) that help keep metal-to-metal wear at a minimum than the current spec (SM/CJ) allows.
Looks like it has an API spec of "SL/CF"? If so, that is a couple of cycles of specification before the current ones. And that's a Good Thing, IMHO, for engines with "flat" tappets. Like ours. It should have more high-pressure additives (like ZDDP) that help keep metal-to-metal wear at a minimum than the current spec (SM/CJ) allows.
Yup, we discussed this before. Zinc and phosphorus create a sacrificial layer on the metal to metal contact surfaces in our engines (D, B, and H series more or less). Since we use tappet rockers we need this, while newer engines like Ks and IIRC L series (and D15B6/B8) use roller rocker setups which are much lower-friction. I may have posted before about my experience inspecting my two B series heads. My B17A1 head, which by all observation had the crappiest of oils, showed almost no wear compared to my B18C5 head which had 10k miles on it with Mobil1/Honda oil its whole life.
i personally use eneos oil imported from japan.... the oil is dyno proven to get major performance through the rpm range, power TV did a special on it and the eneos 0W/50 had an increase of 5 hp over leading synthetic and there 5w/40 put out an increase of 11 hp over the top selling synthetic and over 15 hp over conventional oil.... then agian these test where run on a built Ls2 crate motor on an engine dyno but was very controlled... check it out for yourself
well all i know is iv been using 5w/40 eneos in my car since i bought it and i immediately noticed a slight increase in accelerations through out the powerband, my lil d16 also has a smoother deceleration and idles alil smoother, it also helps with those noisy valves..... but also you got to remeber this is just oil how much power you looking for out of a oil change lol......
I just have some crappy Chevron supreme 10-30 in my rex right now , I was gonna put synthetic in there, but before I did someone told me that it would make my oil leak way worse, so I decided to play it safe. When I put in my b18a I think im gonna go with some Royal Purple, I've heard good things about it. But then again I don't know anything about oils really... but there was a discussion on crx.honda-perf.org about oils where a guy analyzed a buncha oils after a set amount of time or somethin and if I remember right Royal Purple did really well. I think this has inspired me to go on wikipedia and learn about oil.
well all i know is iv been using 5w/40 eneos in my car since i bought it and i immediately noticed a slight increase in accelerations through out the powerband, my lil d16 also has a smoother deceleration and idles alil smoother, it also helps with those noisy valves..... but also you got to remeber this is just oil how much power you looking for out of a oil change lol......
ok so walmart sell this ACCell SF api rating oil, witch is what our crxs where designed for since it was the highest rating at the time, its cheap like $3 a quart, and if it will work better then awesome
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