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OK, I'll make this as comprehensive as possible.

There's too much mis-information floating around.
Full page can be found here: LINK

Before ED9 configuration.


Headlights.
EDM Glass H4 headlights. The polt pattern is exactly the same as any other CRX, regardless of year. Will bolt right up.


Corner lights.
You -WILL- need the corner lights. Ordinary corners will work, but will not sit flush. Ever! They are angled and rounded off compared to the regular ones.


Hood and bumper.
The bumper is raised in te middle, to house the B16 engine. Altho in Japan there are fairly rare exceptions.
The hood will bolt right up. It will NOT work with the regular USDM headlights.


The bumper.
This particular EDM one does not come with an impact or support frame. It bolts straight onto the car, however, I needed to use a washer and an extended bolt to make it fit. (You could also bend the tabs instead)
The SiR/VT front end is an inch or so longer...thus the need to alter it. (Distributor bolts and seatbelt spacers are perfect for this)


The locking plate:
Ok, so now we have the headlights in, the bumper ready to go on, and the hood assembled.
I used a red plate for illustration purposes.
You CAN use your own regular T bar, as you can see on this picture.
But the hood will not close...yet.


A closer view shows that the bumper is rounded off, and that there is a gap between the bumper and the locking plate. Using a SiR/VT plate will solve that, but these have a hiddeous hole in them fot the air heater duct.


Here you can clearly see that I simply spaced the plate out using some old bolts. Eventually I bought a set of pre made spacers. I can't think of the exact measurements right now. Sorry. I think it's half an inch or so.


I flat blacked it temporarily. Hardly anyone noticed it this way. But I finished it off nicer eventually. I'll probably end up making my own locking plate.


All that remains is to properly align the hood. You can use a really big screwdriver for this. There's a tab in the big locking pin (with the spring around it) that you can adjust. You'll need to turn it clockwise a few times. Righty tighty, lefty loosey.....

The end result:

Yes...I have a vented hood. Get off my case. It works. I like it.

The original OEM factory real deal.

Notice the subtle differences in alignment and length. The entire front end is longer, that's why the T-Bar is almost identical to your own one.
So from now on... don't let anyone fool you you need the SiR bar that happens to cost $150.

The link on top also has HUGE pictures so you can see it close up. No hidden tricks.... so everyone can see.
 

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Thanks seti for that info.
I plan on doing a EDM/JDM frt end conversion sometime in the future and this has helped me.
Any chance I can PM ya my phone for any questions?
 

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I read a while back that the need for spacers between the bumper and frame can be solved by swapping over the brackets that bolt to the end of each frame rail - The brackets behind the bumper turn signal assemblies. Apparently the SiR/VTi brackets are longer.
Nice writeup.
 

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PM me your cell # bro.
 

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Baker said:
crxvtec91 said:
Hate to bump such an old post, but can you upload the pic's again? Thanks
I think the pics may have been lost for good, not 100% sure on that.

You can get an idea of what you need and how it should look from this:
viewtopic.php?t=18961
Thanks bro, but that was one of the first hits I got. Only thing im not sure about is what to do with the wiring?
 

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crxvtec91 said:
Hate to bump such an old post, but can you upload the pic's again? Thanks

Also for the edm head lights, what kinda of wiring do you do since it only uses one head light plug?
Just connect all the ground wires together (2 from USDM to 1 on EDM). The remaining two colored wires are for high beam and low beam, just connect those to the appropriate ones from your USDM harness. Now, this method will reduce the life span of the filaments if you use your high beams a lot. So, if you drive with your high beams more than 10 minutes every day, you need to put a relay in there so only the low beam filament will turn off when high beam is on.

Oh, and if you don't know which is high beam or low beam on the JDM/EDM plug, just wire one up and turn it on to test. :lol: Mine didn't come with the plugs, so I pulled some from a Daewoo in the junk yard, and that's how I did it.
 

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Ldo said:
crxvtec91 said:
Hate to bump such an old post, but can you upload the pic's again? Thanks

Also for the edm head lights, what kinda of wiring do you do since it only uses one head light plug?
Just connect all the ground wires together (2 from USDM to 1 on EDM). The remaining two colored wires are for high beam and low beam, just connect those to the appropriate ones from your USDM harness. Now, this method will reduce the life span of the filaments if you use your high beams a lot. So, if you drive with your high beams more than 10 minutes every day, you need to put a relay in there so only the low beam filament will turn off when high beam is on.

Oh, and if you don't know which is high beam or low beam on the JDM/EDM plug, just wire one up and turn it on to test. :lol: Mine didn't come with the plugs, so I pulled some from a Daewoo in the junk yard, and that's how I did it.
I thought about that, but was not sure what everyone else did. Thanks.
 
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