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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:jive: Community Machining Discussion :jive:

Lets all talk about what we would like to see made, and I will do my best to work with you guys, one off prototypes, multiple production pieces, adapters, or anything related to making the CRX, perform better, look better, or something that can benefit the community as a whole, that's a big one.

Personally I can handle even some of the most intricate parts, but I am only aloud to do work at my place of work with managements permissions, so take that into account.

Eventually I would like to invest in a small CNC mill, and a small manual lathe.

Also in time it would be awesome to actually put together a team of us to help everything go smoothly, as of now the only other help im getting semi directly is from, Dr_Drache. If i cannot be reached in a reasonable time, give him a shout and he may be able to help you out, he knows the ropes of what i need and has been very helpful.


Considering the amount of changes i have to make to the first 3 posts, keep an eye on the regularly, especially if you are a part of this in any way.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Paypal: [email protected]
Name: Mayson Naylor


***PAYMENT DISCLAIMER***
You are responsible for sending the PayPal payments as a GIFT to cover PayPal fees, I'm usually lenient about this but with large quantities the losses build up fast.

Project: P.A. Bushing Set
Next production run is set for: Fri, Aug 29, 2014.

Description: This bushing set is a mod of the current bushings placed in the pedal assembly, 4 pieces will be sent, this is enough to do both the clutch and the brake pedal.

WHY? The factory bushings are made of a plastic material, over time they wear out, become stiff, and squeaky, the bronze bushings are made of 544 bronze, and they are made for a very tight but clearance tolerance, they remove slop, and squeek, and will give a smoother and stronger feel to the pedal.

:loco: First Impressions :loco:
Dr_Drache said:
ok, here are 2 pictures, one with just the bushings on the clutch pedal bolt, and one with it installed :


INITIAL REVIEW :
first off, fancy baggie packaging, lol not doing a unboxing, that's silly.
tolerances are very very tight, machining is professional, I got the OI set, in which AIC pointed out the interior was less than perfect. not noticeable unless looking for it.
they don't seem to fit at first, but a little pressure, and they slide on like they were designed to go there.
I only did the clutch, because that's all the time I had.
I slide one bushing on, then the pedal, then the 2nd bushing, it was tight, and I used a wooden headed hammer to press it in. (cherry wood hammer) only took 1-2 taps to get it going. proceeded to place washer and nut on, tightened to "HOLY ****" with 3/8 ratchet.

expected some stickiness with the first movement of the clutch. there was none.
it just pivoted on the bushings. I am at a loss for words, someone will be able to tell me, it was smooth, and not sloppy, my plastic bushings were "new" and that felt soooooo sloppy compaired to now.

I dare to say, it's better then some ball bearing movements I've come across.
this is on my short list of "if you like to drive, you NEEEEEEED this"

Project: Lead-foot Mod

Work to begin on:
Mon, Aug 31, 2013.

Description: This is a COMPLETE overhaul and modification of the factory pedal assembly. It will require being shipped to me for full service, and will include: Brake and Clutch pedal 544 Bronze bushings, clutch pedal reinforcement welding, Accelerator pedal modification, brand new OEM sensor pads, zinc dip, and a nice coat of POR-15.

NOTE: I will order and install new clutch, gas, and brake covers per request, i wont charge extra, but you have to order them and ship them to me, or ship to yourself and install, either way.


WHY? Brake and Clutch pedal bushings for a better than OEM feel and response, the Accelerator pedal mod completely removes all slop in the accelerator pedal, if you take it apart you will notice that over time the bracket that houses it gouges into the arm itself, ill press in bushings and test it for fitment and clearance, new sensor pads because over time the oem ones get brittle and shatter, zinc dip to remove all loose rust and coat to prevent rust, and finally POR-15 Coat to permanently, prevent rust and give the assembly a slick look (gloss black and shiny gold bronze :)b )
 

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I general i think it would help everyone to know what sort of materials you are able to work with, and on what scales.

Limited run of CRXCommunity billet shift knobs would be cool :lol:
Personally i don't find there are many upper strut bars on the market that get me really excited... perhaps theres something to be done there?

Can you do Titanium? 8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ok i should have posted my limitations. as far as materials, sky is the limit, BUT! if im going to be working with an expensive alloy (titanium, nickel, inconel, nitronic, ect.) customer will be fronting the bill directly to buy the stock. i dont want to be the guy to pull $400 out of my wallet and then get screwed cause someone doesnt want to pay.

pre hardened steels like tool steel, drill rod. if an application absolutely calls for a hardened material, we can talk about what metal is needed, i can make the part, and they customer can have it sent to be heat treated, annealed, tempered, ect.

big stuff i most likely wont be able to make, not that i cant, but a very large part is something i imagine i would be denied to make (remember i am limited by company permissions)

so lets say we will keep things under the scale of a 1' cube, the more complex my setup has to be or the part will be, the more it will cost, if it is simple and be produced efficiently, thats a plus.

and just to tease you, i have been drafting ideas to make a strut brace with the same structural layout as this.
 

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Wow a function 7 inspired strut brace would be awesome. I'm drooling at the thought :mrgreen: Ballpark, what would your price be in something like that? Are we talking $200-300, or something closer to 5?

Ohh and another idea, perhaps some sort of billet aluminium horn button for aftermarket steering wheels.
Maybe something like the NSX-R button but just untouched billet aluminium or maybe even titanium for extra cool points. Or perhaps substituting the raised "H" and having raised CRX lettering? Just spitballing here
 

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06DC5 said:
Wow a function 7 inspired strut brace would be awesome. I'm drooling at the thought :mrgreen: Ballpark, what would your price be in something like that? Are we talking $200-300, or something closer to 5?

Ohh and another idea, perhaps some sort of billet aluminium horn button for aftermarket steering wheels.
Maybe something like the NSX-R button but just untouched billet aluminium or maybe even titanium for extra cool points. Or perhaps substituting the raised "H" and having raised CRX lettering? Just spitballing here
we'd have to find a way to get the plastics for the button, and something to work from. plus, what style? momo/etc?

that's prob beyond the scope.

a fuction 7 style strut bar is going to be expensive. they use 7056? alu, ALOT of cnc time, i'm guessing if it's less than 400, I'd be really surprised.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
im going to have a hard time doing heavy programming, the honda "H" may not be a big deal but if i need something programmed i have to bother one of our programmers, only because it has to go through a server.

a F7 inspired strut bar would be like 30-50 in material, but i would charge out the ass... because even if i had one for myself, i wouldnt want to get rid of another haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
gah if i had software so i could post EIA code that would be awesome, thats the only thing holding me back from writing out my own programs... we have 7:1 speeders (up to 21000 rm) that would be great for engraving...

we have cnc and manual, but untill i have my own software, complex cnc code is a no go.
 

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As I Conspire said:
gah if i had software so i could post EIA code that would be awesome, thats the only thing holding me back from writing out my own programs... we have 7:1 speeders (up to 21000 rm) that would be great for engraving...

we have cnc and manual, but untill i have my own software, complex cnc code is a no go.
what software would we need for the g-code?
 
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