crank pulley with engine out?

lock the engine at the flywheel.

use something flat but strong like a metal bar and lock it against the dowel pins on the outside of the flywheel and some tranny bolts holding it in tight.

use a big enough cheater bar and someone to brace the engine and you can get the bolt out easy.

We tried stuffing a screw driver in the teeth of the flywheel and using a breaker bar with a pipe on the end. the whole engine just wanted to move so we just tried the air gun a couple more times and then went home. Next time I go out I will try using the better compressor first and then try the cheater bar method.

Lots of posts about this. You need a high powered impact wrench to get the nut loose, otherwise its a pain. You don't even need to hold the engine when you have one of these.

WHen I did a quick search I didn't see anything about takeing it off with the engine out of the car. If I can't get my gun to take it off or the cheater bar won't break take it off; then I will load up the engine and find someone with a stronger gun.

Yeah I just did mine with the engine out and a strong impact commercial impact wrench. That thing is scary strong

I just got one out, that had never been removed, using the upper half of a floor jack handle as a cheater, and a flywheel holder tool. I had my ~130lb friend helping to hold the motor, try lying it on its side to keep it from moving.

Since you have the motor out of a vehicle, it might be easiest to take it by a shop where they can hit it with a heavy duty impact.

I spent an hour today trying to get the bolt out and it is still holding strong. I broke a socket too while trying to get it off. The socket cracked down the side far enough that it is trash. On Saturday I'm probably going to load the engine and take it to someone with a stronger gun.

my buddy had his d16 out and couldnt get the bolt off, through it in the back of a truck drove it to my shop and I ziped the bolt right out

How much torque does your air gun have? I know my brother gun is not really strong but it gets most bolts out.

have you tried using some heat?

1000ft/lbs but its over kill. you would prob be fine with 5-600ft/lbs

try a mini tourch and get it where its cherry red and then hit it with the impact i had to do that on my d15b2 in my 4dr civic it came right off just make sure you dont get it to hot though that will mess somthing up and twist the head off of the bolt

Just my .02 here..

Don't use heat on a crank even a bolt thats attached.
You should be able to get that bolt off with a good strong air gun.I know thats not very comforting to hear,but its the harsh truth.

The air gun I have been using has a max. of 350 ft/lbs of torque. If a stronger gun can't get it then I will try heat, but heating worries me.

I posted this once and others have mentioned it as well ... does not rely on having a big impact gun, and will work just as well with the engine out:

http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?p=42176#42176

man, i always here of so much trouble with these things. i've been using a standard IR 231 "classic" 1/2" impact for years now (425 ft lbs.) and i have yet to come across a crank bolt that did'nt just zip right out as if it were a 10mm fender bolt. maybe i'm just lucky, i dunno.

'9445 said:

I posted this once and others have mentioned it as well ... does not rely on having a big impact gun, and will work just as well with the engine out:

http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?p=42176#42176

Click to expand...

My problem is not that the engine is turning over it is just that the bolt is on so tight. So will this trick still work?

I spent about 3 hrs with two different impact guns. Still no luck. The second gun I used had 250 ft/lbs torque. People say that it is easiest just to take it to a Semi/ RV dealer and have them use there impact gun.

george34 said:

My problem is not that the engine is turning over it is just that the bolt is on so tight. So will this trick still work?

Click to expand...

No, if you already have a good method of keeping the crank (and engine since it's out) from turning this probably won't help. Rather than going to a semi or RV place that knows nothing about Hondas, I'd call the local Honda dealer and ask if you can bring it in. They'll have the right tools and plenty of people experienced with exactly this problem and chances are they will only charge you for 1/2 hour or 1 hour labor at most. I've had good luck with this, there are several around here that don't mind working with shade tree mechanics (ymmv).

Have you tried the big breaker bar again? I always use a 6-pt 1/2" drive socket for this now as I broke a 12-pt this way some years ago too.