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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all. Been lurking here and working on CRX's since I was 18 and got my first CRX, Beasty. 10 years later, I picked up another one. Meet Tyrone

I found this poor baby abandoned in a police impound lot, bloodied up and left to die. I had no plans of adopting him when I went to the auction that day, but I couldn't help myself when this guy's number came up. And so for only $500 he got a new home.

Being that I have done just about every bolt on upgrade to my first CRX at least twice, I decided to go a little further with this one and get into some more expensive/time consuming modifications.
First thing I did was get the windows tinted. It had been something I always wanted on Beasty but never did.

Next, swapped over the wheels from Beasty. They were Trak Lite wheels that I bought new about 10 years ago. I had just plastidipped them white. That stuff DOES NOT peel off like they claim haha.

Since he was older at heart, I decided to do some surgery and get him some brand new parts.

Got Koni yellows, Neuspeed street springs, cheapo camber kit which I mounted on opposite sides to avoid cutting the chassis for clearance. It messed with the caster a little and the wheel wasn't centered in the front wheel wells. But it worked.

Got a stage 1 clutch, new axles and bearings which turned out to be much more of a chore since the hubs were hf and the axles were dx. So I did that twice.

Tyrone came with the Wings west front and rear bumper but I have never been a fan of that look, and actually got Beasty with the same kit. So I sold those and got stock ones. Which I think are JDM style?
A few months later, I moved and got a place with a garage!!!

So being a fan of the stock look, but not the stock ground clearance, I got some lips. The front is ebay JDM lip, rear is the universal roll stick on stuff, and the sides are Home Depot garden edging.


Shortly after that, the muffler rusted out so I started doing some research on a nice quiet deep setup. Got myself a Dynomax turbo and a resonator and welded it all up. luckily enough, The previous exhaust was a 2.5 inch cat back so I just cut and replaced the old one and then cut a spot after the cat for the resonator.

It is very quiet compared to most modded Honda's and sounds awesome if i ever have to really gas it.
After 10 years of riding on 15's I wanted just a little bit bigger so I found these on FB marketplace for $300 with new tires. 16 inch Rota Slipstreams, wrapped in Yokohama S-drives and Dunlop Direza


Ordered some led lights for the dash and got a little creative.

Since I had finally gotten all the body pieces and I had a garage now, I decided to try my hand at painting.

I chose a deep purple. And was doing it piece by piece so that by the time I got to the actual body, I'd be at least decent at it and have a better idea of what I'm doing.

I like the way the CRX looks with the lower half black but it was too subtle next to the purple, so I went with oil rubbed bronze Rustoleum with the actual clear coat over it.

There was a setback after he decided to headbutt a toyota. Thankfully the bumpers were still in the garage being painted and the fenders were untouched. Just had to get another hood and headlights.

In the mean time, It was daytime driving only and my hood latch was a ratchet strap.
Can you spot the impostor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So more updates and pieces. . . .
After driving all over Tennessee, I finally got the parts I needed.

I had no idea this part could be taken off but I'm learning more and more the longer I own this car.

Everything came off fairly easy and only had minor bends around the top of the fender mount place.

Bolted and welded in

New hood, headlights and corners. Everything is coming together
So now back to the bodywork and painting. It is kind of amazing how many tiny dents a car can collect over 28 years. And even more amazing how easy it is to miss many of them haha.


Removing some dimples from dat azz

It was nice weather this week so I drove around like this while I worked on the doors and hatch. It was pretty funny when I pulled up next to a jeep.

Weight reduction to the max! So this was my makeshift spray booth, just drop clothes stapled to the ceiling and all over the floor and then plastic table cloths from dollar tree for masking off the car.

Base and clear. There really isn't a lot of body to this car once you remove all the pieces.

This was my yard for a few days while I moved things in and out to be painted. And since I read you are supposed to bake car paint, I just put everything in the sun for a few days.

So everything came out pretty nice. Orange peel in a lot of places but hey, It was my first attempt and with far from ideal conditions. I'm pretty pleased.

This is like 70%. There are still several small things to be put back together. Then the sanding cutting and buffing, and THEN, once I have spent my last dime on sandpaper and worked my knuckles to the bone, I will get some nice pictures of it all shiny and looking right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So like a granny with a face lift, Tyrone was looking good on the outside but still grunting with every move. I made a massive score many months ago on a brand new FULL Greddy turbo kit + extras that I couldn't pass up, and it has just been sitting in my garage waiting for a home. The original motor was still in the car sitting at around 220,xxx miles and had started to smoke a little bit so I didn't want to just slap the turbo on that one and wait til it dies without a replacement. So with my ever tinkering mind, I decided i should learn how to build/swap a motor. This is a big deal for me because it has always been something that I was afraid to venture in to. Kinda the great unknown. BUT, I like a challenge. So, after many sleepless nights spent on extensive amounts of research, I decided to go with a D16Z6 because it is cheap and fairly simple to install. And I'm not wanting anything crazy out of the car, just a little more pep as my daily driver.

Pieced everything together from about 10 cars from 4 local junk yards. So with many more countless hours of research and lost sleep, I started ordering parts.


Then it was motor building time. I had taken it apart a few times at the yards and seen a million videos, so I felt confident and dove right in. My plans for it are, "high compression" 9.96:1, and a turbo :twisted: but still keeping it conservative and shooting for around 200hp as a daily driver.

Got a little paint crazy when building/waiting for parts. I cleaned everything up and painted everything I could . By the way, Super Clean (purple bottle stuff) is the BOMB. Used that and a pressure washer and everything came out looking brand new.
I held off as long as possible to pull the motor. But started on Saturday with this.

Sunday was cleaning up the engine bay, trying to clean up the janky wiring harness for the lights and then painting the bay.

Little did I know, the jacked lighting harness was only a taste of the nonsense I would be dealing with on the engine harness. The person who "cared for" Tyrone before me, had done the MPFI swap. But the same way that a cracked out rat builds a bird house. So, THANKFULLY, it worked for the motor that was in it (d15b2) but when it came time to go from OBD0 to OBD1, I found myself in a wirey hell. I spent 3 full days with a multi meter and 3 different wiring harnesses trying to piece together one decent harness that would work for the motor.


I finally got something figured out pin wise that should work and this is my fully custom hand made wiring setup. I spent Thursday on finishing touches/setting the motor.

Still have a little ways to go but I'm hoping for first start Friday. Then it is break in time and hopefully turbo/tune next week. Also, Greddy E manage is gone. That crappy ebay radiator was the same size as the Yonaka that I got with the turbo kit, so I sent it back and installed the Yonaka. Engine mounts have been packed with silicone (probably a temporary thing). And the traction control bar is now an Innovative Mounts pro series bar to allow room for the turbo down pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you JMZ4001. So a little update,

I got everything in and all the lines run, and IT STARTED!!!! And with my completely rebuilt wire harness, only 1 wire (eacv) was mis pinned. I was very proud of my first motor build/swap. BUT, and it's a big but, it sounded like dying cats trying to escape from hell. So after taking it around the block and crossing my fingers that the sound would just go away, I was advised to drop the oil pan and check to see what was wrong.

This is what I found. :oops: So that lead to pulling the motor back out and disassembling it piece by piece to find the source of this metal confetti.

Turns out, ARP rod bolts actually shrink the rod bearing seat ever so slightly and will do this to your new bearings and crankshaft if not machined to fit first. SO back to the junkyard to get another z6 block just so I could get the crankshaft. THIS TIME its all in a machine shop with a hefty price tag of $500. So in a week or so, I'll go through all this again haha. Live and learn right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
HE MOVES!!!!
After having the block bored .20 over and ordering new pistons to match, then braking 1 piston trying to separate it from the rod after hastily putting it on wrong out of excitement, I managed to get everything together correctly.
I painted the calipers black because the gold was again too gaudy, and painted the rims white to match the engine bay and give the car a little more pop. Here is how he sits now.


Also painted the headers black to get rid of that rusty look in my nice shiny new engine bay. They are only temporary though as now I'm just saving up to put the turbo on and have it tuned. I had a budget of $1000 on the motor, $1000 on the turbo, and $1000 for the tune. But thanks to a few bumbles I am right around $3000 on just getting the motor in and parts collected. But once I get a little more money and time to go without a car again (it was down for a month and a half) I'll slap the turbo on and hopefully get some dyno charts on here.
 

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Man, maaan, maaaaan... This rex has ur heart dude. It got hit TWICE and you saved it. Like the color but the trims are so hard to find the days just keep it two tone. Engineerings bay looks slick with the white. And LED cluster is nice too, what LEDs did you end up getting to work in it?

Anyways the engine rebuild for the car is defiantly worth it. Some wetland and buffing on the paint will make that thing pop!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks RexAllDay!
Got the itch to mod again. One of the local junkyards had a 40% off day and happened to have a 93 Integra. So I decided to get me some big brakes. Grabbed the spindles,hubs, brakes, and wheels all in one since the car had lock nuts on them. Then spent a day trying different places to see if they could get them off. Finally found out about the harbor freight wheel lock kit, so I can disassemble and return what I don't need.

Finally disassembled. The only thing I kept were the spindles. Figured while I was at it, may as well go the Mini Cooper route. So got some 280mm blank rotors on Amazon for like $43 I think.

Here are the 3 rotors side by side. Stock CRX on the bottom. Da Integra on the right and the Coopers on top. MUCH BIGGER.
Then I hit another yard looking for Type R Teg or Legend brakes. Based off of what I read, these were the only ones that would work. Found out that the Legend were the same part number as the 02 Accord. So I grabbed those since they were in better shape.

This is them next to the stock ones.
and here is the part number. I have a suspicion that they may not be the exact ones that I read about, but they bolted right up, and work perfectly.


So here is the gap difference...


I replaced the master cylinder while I was at it with a 15/16 from a 91 civic. The car stops great now, although it stopped fine before. This was kind of an "upgrade" just because I wanted to work on it.
I also found a CRX with A/C at the yard (lucky week!!!) that I grabbed all the parts for and was installing before I realized that my dash harness was missing all of the connections, so that will now be a Later project.
All of this started because I finally called the tuner and set a date. Which leads me to the next set of pics.
TURBO INSTALL!!!
This was the turbo I had mentioned earlier when I got such an amazing deal. The kit was originally for a Mazda Protege, but everything lined up (SORT OF). The turbo was mounted on the left, which I have only seen them mounted to the right on this car, but again, IT FIT! I wanted the car to still keep the front bumper intact and not scream "I'm TURBO, STEAL ME". I found an intercooler on a junkyard Volvo that was originally a side mount, but with some clever piping, became my front mount. So I used an old framing square to make mounts for it.


Also had to move the radiator to the right side and put the intercooler where it originally was. So with some cutting, welding, and some ghetto ingenuity, I made everything fit.


Here it is with the bumper on. Everything sits in the engine bay behind where the a/c condenser would go (already test fit) so no cutting of the bumper what soever.

Here is the almost finished look. It isn't connected yet because I wanted to make sure everything was functional first, and also have to drive to the tuning shop. Being high compression and turbo, I'd rather not run on a base map 45 minutes to the shop. All I have left is to hook up the last pipe with the BOV and then it's ready to go on the dyno.
 

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This is a great build! Giving me some ideas. What is the current status?

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What's up everybody? It's been a busy year, and had some problems with the car so quit posting for a while. But here is a bit of an update to show what's been going on over the past year.
I took it to get tuned!!



First time I went, there were a couple problems with my "customizing" of things. But got the Hondata s300 and a base map (still N/A) the car barely ran but according to the tuner, "was fine until I got back." So I fixed a few things, radiator fan, top hose of radiator, and oil gauge. Then came back.




This time I connected everything, put in the new injectors and got it up on the dyno. After a few pulls, he got it to 135hp at the wheels with 5 Psi. Then we found out that I had mis pinned one other wire. Vtec :rolleyes1: and also the car would die every time letting off the throttle after boost. So he swore up and down that it was the IACV even though I tested it when building the motor and it was fine. He sent me home to fix a few more things with a car that dies if I hit boost and let off. So I tested the IACV again, still fine, but for good measure, bought a new one. Same thing. Later found out that it was the blow off valve being improperly adjusted. When I asked about that, he told that he is not a mechanic, just a tuner so he doesn't deal with adjusting the BOV. :?:
I found a good deal on an authentic Greddy BOV on marketplace and got it just for good measure. The car at this point still dies but not as easily or every time.



And around this time, it was getting hotter outside and it started overheating every time I stopped at a light. So new fun quest of solutions. I added an oil cooler and a write up here;

https://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=303936



Still no luck in the hot summer. I put a ceramic tile between the hose and headers and that actually helped, but come on, that's not how I want my engine to stay lol. So I got a full size radiator to get the top rad hose off of the headers and I got a big intercooler thinking that could help if incoming air is cooler. I found a Cx Racing Eagle Talon intercooler on ebay that was about an hour away from me so I went and got that.
Had to do some work to the front end to get it to fit, but it is actually an easy fit for the car.



Had to cut a little wider in the front and this is the custom made bottom radiator support and intercooler mount.



It is a HUGE intercooler!!



The fun way I had to run the piping due to the turbo being backwards



Cut up and reinforced the bumper support



Had to cut out the grille to fit the bumper flush underneath :cry: but it looked pretty ok.



This ran for a bit but still over heated if in traffic. I tried 3 different set ups with the oil cooler thinking maybe something there wasn't working. Tried 4-5 different fan configurations with pushers and pullers, Spal fans since they were the "best out there". And 3 different radiators, still nothing. Finally, I took off the intercooler entirely and ran the turbo straight into the intake. It worked. Intake temps were higher of course, and if I stopped , they would get hot fast so I stopped running it for a while, doing projects here and there like trying my hand at a fiberglass sub box.



Was originally planning on putting it in the spare tire spot but then decided against that because I use my car as a work truck for my remodeling business (we all know how much a crx can hold!) So I went with the left side behind the wheel.



Fiberglass insert ready. I didn't take more pics of the process for some reason, but I cut the original box to make a circle for the sub and then used wooden dowels screwed to the fiberglass to hold it up. Then used felt for the top and some bondo once everything dried. Came out looking pretty sweet. The marks on top are from carrying 3x5 sheets of hardi backer haha.



I rewired the headlights to use H4 bulbs since they have high and low all in one and dremeled out the housings so that they fit in both holes. Then got LED's so I now have insanely bright lights that light up the whole light instead of just the low half. Also put in some flush mount hood pins to remove the original hood latch. Because in my quest to lower engine temps, I bought a civic front grill that I want to cut the hood to fit. Bringing in more airflow and just a different look I've never seen before.





I also moved the battery to the back so I could have more room to play with intercooler piping and such. Welded the tie down hooks straight to the frame in the trunk.



Got some front mudflaps of an older Prelude and sanded them down to fit ish. Looks pretty good unless you are inspecting them haha.



On the dyno, I watched my engine lurch a good 4-5 inches forward when under load, so I got some innovative mounts.
Did the gold heat wrap in another attempt to remedy the heat issue.



Also, things that have been stealing my time and keeping me from setting the car on fire out of frustration....
Painting the sport bike with rattle cans.


Found a deal on a nice cruiser to eventually do a bobber project with.



Wired leds on both of them.



After some time off, I decided to try and redo intercooler and radiator again. Got a small intercooler on ebay and a full size rad and it actually works now!! NO MORE OVERHEATING!!! I hate the way the front grill looks now. But its function over form for now.



Here is the inside with a couple things, like push start. Civic armrest/center console. Gauge pillar pod. Tweeters in the door. I plan on redoing the seat fabrics soon, just deciding on material and colors.



Right now, Tyrone sits in the garage, dirty and probably with a dead battery. I broke my clutch foot about a month ago so I haven't been able to have any fun with anything motorized. But first thing once I get the cast off is to get it tuned again, with Vtec and new boost controller so I can up it more than the 5 psi it has right now. Just have to find a tuner since the other one didn't work out too well. Any suggestions in the Nashville, Tn area?
 

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Too bad the big inter cooler didn't work out. The front end looks sick with it in.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It has been another good while. Got the cast off and had some fun running around in the rex. But it started smoking really bad and then overheated and wouldn't stay running. So instead of trying to fix it, I decided to redo everything. And do it bigger and better this time....

This is just the first group of parts to arrive. More to come soon
 

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Sorry to hear about the engine trouble. You'd put so much effort into that first build. Yeah I agree with Clayton, the front bumper looked great. Really, the whole car looked great. Some pro stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
More parts are in and motor is out.



I had time waiting for parts and a lot of left over bondo so I did some bondo work in the engine bay just to smooth things out a little. Forgot how much I hate sanding though.



The engine is apart and the pistons look like crap but the cylinders still have the hone on them.




Took the head to the shop to get the valve guides put in and have a valve job done. Everything installed and looking nice.



This is the engine in a million pieces all on a table waiting for the puzzle to begin.



Accidentally got 11.0:1 pistons and flat valves but did get a little thicker head gasket. So compression will be going up a little. Still planning on boost. I'm looking at selling my Greddy 15g and getting the Garrett GTX2860R. I'm not messing around this time. Can't have another 2 years of fighting this thing.... No expense spared this time around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Life moves on and so does the project. I've gotten a bit carried away in the looks this time. Really finding what I like throughout though.

I did some bondo work while waiting for parts.

So much sanding

Looking smoother. I hate sanding!

Shiny new hardware

I did it wrong the first time on this build too. Threw out the oil ring retainers. CP gave great instructions which I fumbled a bit to think they just packaged extra rings. Only took a ton of smoke, and complete tear down to realize what I had done.

In the meantime, I am helping my friend with his CRX build as well.


Work smarter not harder!

Here's mine again with the new turbo headers.

And here is what I created with said turbo headers.

Mounted on the car. And sadly all my beautiful welds will be hidden by the radiator. haha

Again, waiting for parts, I decided I needed some of the finer things in life. Like power windows.

Switch mounting came out great. It's my car, passengers can ask for their window up or down.

Started from the bottom, and now I'm here. . . . .




Also, got bored today and made this fancy hood latch delete. . .

$8 bucks at home depot and a little bit of time.
 
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