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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I've done quite a bit of searching but Im a little confused. I have a stock CRX HF 1990, and I want to swap in a B18B. I'm familair with the basics, as ive swapped a B18B into an EG, however, there's this spindles issue. I see alot of people are using the hub assemblies from DA's, however I called a honda specific salvage yard that most business comes from people swapping motors, and they said that the DC2 hub assemblies will also work. Is this true? Also, what OEM shift linkage do I use?

Parts list.
B18B Long block manifold to manifold
B-series transmission
Some sort of shift linkage
Hub assemblies from DA, or possibly DC2?
B-series axles
Non-vtec B-series ECU
OBD-0 Distributor
OEM motor mounts

I assume i can reuse my alternator from the HF. What did i forget?
 

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B series tranny better be cable...

Shift linkage, B series ONLY cut to fit your car, or go aftermarket.
Get Si hub assembly, cheap and easy. Direct bolt up no headaches.

B series axles, better be DA non-abs ones.

OBD0 Dizzy, better be B series.

OEM motor mounts must be OBD0 (you will snap the driver side motor mount of you run obd1, and a B18B has obd1 mounts, trust me I know, and so does alot of guys at the Mid Ohio meet last year) B series, and you will need a mounting kit EF into B series.

The alternator MUST be a B series one. D series does not equal B series. Now that you know, don't forget

Things you didn't mention:
ECU, Must be OBD0 with MPFI. Not 'B series'. The Si one is the best in the D series that's cheap and easy, but get the DA one.

You will need some different water hoses. Well maybe not, I swapped a B16 and they were different, but my LS I swapped in was different too. Too be prepared, have the DA LS ones too just in case, scrap yard will have a set for sure.

A big hammer to bash your frame, ask anyone who swapped a B series, the frame needs some notching, rear frame too for extra clearance, cut off the front mount from the subframe for that clean swap look.

There is probably more but I'm at work and can't go into detail. One thing I notice is you write B series, and not OBD0 enough. The years DO matter, the older style stuff is what you want.
 

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You need hubs from a CRX DX, Si, civic EX sedan or a da integra. DC knuckles will not work for you.

There is no OEM shift linkage that will work, you need to make a cuastom one or buy one from where you get your motor mounts.

You cant use OEM mounts either, you need a mount kit.

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jfrolang said:
ludesrv said:
The alternator MUST be a B series one. D series does not equal B series. Now that you know, don't forget.
I think a D alt will work, the Old One at Endyn used a D alternator on a B build up. He said it was for the weight savings.
Hmmm that's odd. My Si one wouldn't bolt up to my B16. Might be the mount I used tho. I would get the proper one tho. I'm not picky about 5 lbs of alternator vs. a stronger alternator. Plus it's a good reason to get a nice, brand spanking rebuild too. Nothing ****tier then having a alt. crap out on you. I've had that happen to me too, battery light comes on, you turn off everything and pray to god you make it to a gas station or anywhere except the side of the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Cool, thanks for the quick responses. I'm aware of the OBD-0 issues, i just forgot to write that as well. Sorry.

I'm pretty sure we used a D-series alternator from a D16Z6 and just stuck it on a B18B. Maybe I'm just not remembering clearly...
 

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Replica said:
Cool, thanks for the quick responses. I'm aware of the OBD-0 issues, i just forgot to write that as well. Sorry.

I'm pretty sure we used a D-series alternator from a D16Z6 and just stuck it on a B18B. Maybe I'm just not remembering clearly...
If you have a manifold to manifold engine, the alternator should be on there, no? If not, then try a used D series and see if it does bolt up, or if the D series mount does bolt up. I'm not sure, but I was told never put D series on B series. And the output from the D16Z6 in my friend 95 Si went from 11.9 on his meter, to 12.7 after the GSR swap. That's how I drew the conclusion the output was higher rated. I know the regulator sets it at 14.4, but the amps go up, no?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Not sure on the amps and such.

So people are saying no OEM mounts from either the CRX or B-series will work? I went to a hassport webite and the mount kit is $350....what the hell...is there a cheaper alternative?
 

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Avid mounts are the cheaper solution. Don't cheap out too much, fitment is a BIG issue in our cars. I cheaped out once, and it costed me my B16. I picked up Avid mounts and an avid shifter and I've been very happy with them. Very stiff. Alot of vibrations tho at idle.
 

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Replica said:
I really dont want stiff motor mounts that shake the entire car. Is there an OEM solution?
That's too bad. They don't really make non stiff ones. Hasport makes a 'street' version which is a softer bushing. But you do a swap to get more power, you have to sacrifice a little to get the power. Alot of power is lost in compression of bushings, having stiff bushings allows for better deliverance of power (torque more or less) and also throttle reaction is improoved. My b18 throttle reaction is amazing compared to my old D series.

Sounds like you wanna cheap out a little on the swap. Don't, trust me, you will thank yourself in reliability.

The saying is 'Reliabilty, Power, Cheap' You can only have 2. A b swap is concidered Power, you only have 1 more choice to make, don't sacrifice the wrong one...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
ludesrv said:
Sounds like you wanna cheap out a little on the swap. Don't, trust me, you will thank yourself in reliability.

The saying is 'Reliabilty, Power, Cheap' You can only have 2. A b swap is concidered Power, you only have 1 more choice to make, don't sacrifice the wrong one...
It's not that im trying to go cheap, im just genereally dissapointed in aftermarket parts and want to stay as OEM as possible. I guess it's that EG mindset...
 

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Replica said:
ludesrv said:
Sounds like you wanna cheap out a little on the swap. Don't, trust me, you will thank yourself in reliability.

The saying is 'Reliabilty, Power, Cheap' You can only have 2. A b swap is concidered Power, you only have 1 more choice to make, don't sacrifice the wrong one...
It's not that im trying to go cheap, im just genereally dissapointed in aftermarket parts and want to stay as OEM as possible. I guess it's that EG mindset...
OEM are usually weaker then aftermarket. If you so anything other wise, it's because you were buying the cheap parts. My avid mounts are second hand. Came from my brother who used them in a car that made 218whp and they never failed whatsoever. My ghetto no names did tho after 3000kms.
 

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jfrolang said:
A shop in Florida called LHT makes "vibration-free" mounts. They're not cheap though. Hasport offers 3 different bushing durometers; street, race, and super race or something to that effect.
70A durometer in the house! my whole car vibrates like a swedish massage.

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