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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed my Crower stage 2 tonight, and now my idle is super lopey. I also noticed a squealing type noise coming from under the front fenders, sometimes accompanied by the smell of burning/scorched rubber. :twisted:

Anyway, for real, my idle sucks bad, especially when it's cold. I adjusted the nut on the cable, but it's either at 2000 RPM or dying. I've heard of an idle screw... but I actually can't find it in the dark here and I don't know where it is. Can someone help me out, or am I going to have to live with idling high until it's tuned?
 

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you need to tune it to get it to idle better. you have to adjust the fuel bias at idle. you are probably running rich now.

did you get the upgraded springs?
 

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Welcome to aggressive non-vtec cams... lol! :lol: and people ask whats so special about vtec cars... haha! This is just one of those things :p

But really, it shouldn't be THAT lopey, but it depends on how picky you are to say it is "super" lopey... to me, super lopey is a LOT different than say, someone who's driven nothing but stock cars all their lives, and are used to them idling like sewing machines...

But it will be a bit lopey, that is part of the whole experience of upgrading cams. VTEC cars don't suffer nearly as much, because the low-lobe stays close to stock anyway... most big changes are in the taller lobe. If you locked VTEC open on, the car would run lopey as hell.

Is your physical-timing perfect? are you sure you adjusted the tensioner properly? have you CHECKED to make sure it hasn't jumped-teeth on the belt? With a timing-belt car, if i smelled rubber burning, the first thing i'd do is shut it off, and start tearing it down again until i found what rubber was burning...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nope, I HAD an A6...



Then I was forced to "upgrade" to this:


A6 block freshly rebuilt, Y8 head, bolt ons, p28 Crome etc.

The rubber noise was a joke John... my Azenis are on the way out and spinning too easily now. The cam definitely made the car feel faster, and sound like a monster, but the idle is so bad it won't even stay running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think I found the idle screw, the big one on top of the throttle body (Z6 intake mani) next to the line for the charcoal canister and MAP sensor. Which way do I want to turn this thing, doesn't seem to do too much either way. It's kind of annoying, sometimes (well often) I'm stalling at lights, and parallel parking is quite the sight on my block now.
 

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Turn it out (counter clockwise) for higher idle...

There is also a little screw near the throttle cable cam that you can adjust to open the butterfly... you don't want to just tighten the cable to change the idle... thats too inconsistant.

Just remember that the car will fight this change. It has a pre-set idle rpm that it wants to be at. This is where the IACV comes to play, especially when cold. You could also disable the IACV (build a block-off plate, and sandwich it between the IACV and the intake manifold so it blocks the holes), and increase the idle with the cam-side screw, and then fine-tune it with the screw on top of the TB... that way the ecu won't fight it.
 
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