[Gophat]

as we speak i am changing my timing belt... i need a guideline to do it for a d15b2 stock crx engine on my 88 rex... HELP please..!

 

[jfrolang]

There was a How-To topic for the timing belt and water pump on this site, but it's temporarily down. So I'll just copy/paste a version I saved a long time ago. It's not the best, but it should be enough to give you an idea what you have to do.

Timing Belt:
Take car to get crank pulley bolt pre-loosened. A local gas station garage should be able to handle this.

Jack up car, place on jackstands

Take off driver side wheel

Set motor at TDC (your haynes manual will tell you how)

Remove pre-loosened crank pulley bolt.

Losen alternator slider, slide alternator toward block

Take off alternator belt

Take off crank pulley (sometimes it sticks, tap it with a hammer)

Take off lower timing belt cover (bunch of 10mm bolts)

Beer break

Take off Valve cover (unnecessary if upper timing belt cover is already off)

Remove upper timing belt cover bolts

Take off upper timing belt cover

Put valve cover back on (rest it there) to prevent crap from getting in

Loosen belt tensioner.

Get your jack

Place jack under oil pan with a block of wood on top of it to prevent damaging the pan

Put a light pressure on the oil pan.

Take off driver side motor mount (but not the part attached to the car, the two bolts that hold the mount to the engine)

Tilt motor slightly by lowering jack

Slide Timing belt off (be carefull not to turn the cam or the crank while doing this)

Installation is the reverse of removal.

 

[Gophat]

how do u take off the crank bolt... it is spinnin as i loosen it.... i cant take the damn car to the garage cuz it cant move...

 

[downest]

Everyone loves the crank pulley...

There are a lot of ways to hold the crank pulley while you do this, I prefer to hold the pulley itself to avoid the slack in the rest of the rotating assembly. Use a couple of bolts through the holes in the pulley, they won't thread, but just use some nice quality bolts stuck in there. Now use a steel bar of some sort wedged between the bolts and something else, the ground or axle work well, so that when the pulley turns, the bar stops it from moving. Use a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar with a 6-point 17mm socket on the pulley bolt, and a couple of extensions to get it clear of the fender. Rest the extension on a jack stand so it remains straight, and put the biggest pipe you can find over your breaker bar. I like to use the handle of a floor jack for this. Now take up the slack, and then put all your weight on it, it should come loose.

 

[ludesrv]

IF you have access to an air impact, or even an electric impact, then use it to remove it. This is probably the easiest/best ways of doing it, but what Tom said works just as good if all you have is hand tools.

 

[rex2nr]

Also, you can throw a little heat on it to help break it loose. Just go in with a torch and heat it up a bit, especially if you have hand tools.

 

[bobski]

Don't go overboard with the heat... There's a rubber oil seal a few inches away behind the lower timing belt gear. A new one is probably in the $5-10 range, but why waste time and money on replacing a melted seal if you don't need to?

 

[fireant]

One REALLY important thing to note about changing your timing belt:

The manual recommends you set everything to TDC before removing the belt, this is because there are markers on the crank pulley and on the cam pulley you can keep an eye on to MAKE SURE NEITHER ONE OF THEM TURN while the belt is off. You can simply mark their position with a sharpie or something, but its important that the relationship between the crankshaft's position and the camshaft position is exactly the same when the new belt goes on, and not one-tooth off in either direction.

 

[downest]

IF you have access to an air impact, or even an electric impact, then use it to remove it. This is probably the easiest/best ways of doing it, but what Tom said works just as good if all you have is hand tools.

I've seen MANY of these that don't come out with an impact gun.

 

[bobski]

I've seen MANY of these that don't come out with an impact gun.

You must be using too many extensions or something. Extensions act like a spring and absorb the impact effect. You want to keep the socket as close to the anvil as possible:

^_^

 

[downest]

Even straight on, I've seen them not budge at all. Maybe I'm using too small an impact?

 

[fireant]

If you can, you can try hitting it ten times towards off, then five times toward on, repeat, repeat, repeat.

 

[tubafreak]

This one should probably be big enough.

 

[stick]

If they have never been taken off before, I've seen these requiring 800 ft/lbs of torque (or more) to get off. The same goes if someone reinstalled the bolt by ramming it on with a 1 inch impact gun. I had to get mine taken off by a shop that had a 1 inch impact gun. I reinstalled it with a torque wrench to the proper specs so this problem doesn't happen again.

 

[crxpilot]

Everyone loves the crank pulley...

There are a lot of ways to hold the crank pulley while you do this, I prefer to hold the pulley itself to avoid the slack in the rest of the rotating assembly. Use a couple of bolts through the holes in the pulley, they won't thread, but just use some nice quality bolts stuck in there. Now use a steel bar of some sort wedged between the bolts and something else, the ground or axle work well, so that when the pulley turns, the bar stops it from moving. Use a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar with a 6-point 17mm socket on the pulley bolt, and a couple of extensions to get it clear of the fender. Rest the extension on a jack stand so it remains straight, and put the biggest pipe you can find over your breaker bar. I like to use the handle of a floor jack for this. Now take up the slack, and then put all your weight on it, it should come loose.

Just to add to what he said above, insert large rod(junk heman screwdriver) etc. into alternator bracket, then pry your rod against that,lol that sounds funny.

Another trick jam two screwdrivers in the brake discs through the caliper inspection holes, to keep the wheels from spinning, doesn't always work usually clutch just slips and there is so much lash in drive train and gears that you really have to wind it up and if it does come loose something is probably going to break, you, breaker bar, or drivetrain. (great for removing axles too, I love doing this in the junkyard and finding an old exhaust system lying underneath a junk car for a breaker bar extension, this one gets some funny looks, all I do is laugh and say booyah to myself for all the haters out there, gotta love junkyard ingenuity, lol

Also when you reinstall the timing belt the cam gear must be lined up so the UP mark is on top, the two hashes 180 degrees form each other are lined up with the machined surface of the top of the head where the valve cover seals up, DO NOT USE THE NOTCH AT THE 7 O' CLOCK position you will be one tooth of and this is only used for the 1.6L motors (D16A6) due to the difference in deck height.
Hope that helps,
Caleb

 

[bobski]

This one should probably be big enough.

Nah... you need one of these:

 

[zulued]

when i reinstall the bolt i put a new dab of blue lock tite on the bolt...

i had the bolt come loose on me twice.

so my recomendations on reinstalling the bolt. dab of blue locktite and torque to spec.

scarponze