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The very first thing you need to do is the MPFI swap. Basically it's an intake manifold swap, you get one injector per cylinder, instead of just two in the throttle body. While you're doing that you can consider an Si camshaft for a couple hp, and then I/H/E will open it up and let it breathe. The stock exhaust manifold in particular is pretty restrictive.

More information on the MPFI swap is available here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
what intake?(aftermarket?????)my freind is selling his talon turbo i read that i need a std/hf manifold or do i get an aftermarket header instead im on a budget? i was thinking of a high perf. cam do i need a boost control for the turbo?
 

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My recommendation for an intake is AEM. (~$200) My recommendation for a header is DC Sports. (~$280)

But you won't need either if you want to walk down the road called Turbo. Boost will certainly be more expensive, but with more gains. You will need some kind of fuel management, but I have no experience with any of them, so I'll let someone else chime in here.

And about a cam, The Si cam can be had for cheap (especially compared to aftermarket cams) and is good for several hp. If you want to go with an aftermarket bumpstick though, make sure you're getting one designed for what you want to do. If you decide to go turbo, a high-performance N/A camshaft will actually hurt your hp figure.

Another option you have is a VTEC head swap, from a 92-95 Civic Si or Ex (D16Z6) or a 96-00 Civic Ex (D16Y8).

It all comes down to how much money you want to spend and how much power you want. I/H/E and the Si cam will probably get you around 110-115hp. A VTEC head swap will be 120-130hp. Turbo will likely get you around 140hp.

If you want even more, you can look into whole engine swaps from nearly any later Honda or Acura.
 

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Although I cant say that I understand your definition of "true hp" is.Are you planning on going turbo?
You could add a decent aftermarket exhaust manifold.Just be careful as to what exhaust you buy.
Theres not alot of HP gains to be had on a B2 with just bolt ons.(IMO)
Since you already have the good trans(Si) your set there,and you already have the MPFI.
Didnt you say in another post that your B2 engine had some bad rod or crank bearings?If thats the case why not bore the case and go aftermarket?
Any increase in cc's will ultimately increase hp.
Now I also see that you say your on a budget.....Ok you do know that the B2 head and A6 head are similar short of a different cam.Is the head any good?You may be able to save a few bucks putting in a cam in that head.Heck even a stock A6 cam is better than that one thats in there now.

I would also agree that d-series.org is a good source of info.
GL with your engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yes my rod bearings are shot i pulled the pan yesterday to make sure ive found some for $25 as far as getting biger i thought about it i do want true hp no boost or any nos at this time but im going turbo soon right now im trying to get her on the road again she hasnt been driven for 3 months because i thought she was blown
 

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Are you going to assemble your shortblock then?
 

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o0amazinazn0o said:
turboing a d15 only gits it to 140 whp?? or to the crank?? and at how much PSI???
you could throw in a D16A6 cam and upgrade to MPFi to have a D16A6 pretty much...

I think the rods are weaker in the D15 (not sure).

Save the time and trouble and especially cost for the turbo...just throw on a VTEC head and do a mpfi swap to net around 120~130hp.
 

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Dren:I'm pretty sure he already has the MPFI done.I responded to that earlier.
But I would tend to agree a nice mini-me isnt all that expensive and can net 120 hp.Thats a definate improvement over the ol d15b.
Oh and yes the d15 rods are the D series weak points.
Have you looked into a MM swap?
 
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