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How high is the C.R.?
How big was it bored out?
Stroke length?
lots more information is missing.

I would say not a chance. Better call who ever built it and ask Him for every single specs on the build. You will need that information anyway when the time comes to tune it( if its not blown by then) even with the right parts.

on a stock Y7 sure go for it. On that moded engine, no way unless you want to learn a $600+ lesson.

Jmo
I could be wrong, I've been before.

B2eho
 
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It was bored with sandpaper and machined with a dremel.
Ohhh Boy

Using sand paper to scuff or deglaze(propper term) the piston walls is not a bore not even a hone.
Using a dremel rotary tool is not a machined work either.

Ask the guy who put the engine together what is the compression ratio he was going for. This should give you an idea of what octane rating fuel to get. You will have to play with timing a bit too.

Btw
You can not run bigger injectors on dpfi.
D15b2 uses odd shaped injectors.
 
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CRXHX - D16Y5 swap, full OBD2 conversion.
Sorry I don't know how to link it.
There is a lot of information there with several images about wiring schematics.

As far as wiring goes it's all about matching the correct sensor on the engine with the correct location on the ecu for that sensor. Pay attention to polarity. + and gnds.
There is a difference between power ground and signal gnds at least on the position on the ecu; don't mix them up.

Service manual is the one used by Honda technitians, you will not find it at junk yard it needs to be downloaded online or search the specs you needs online, by now there is everything needed online. There is a ton of info on the forum you need to use the search button or the stikies.

GL
 

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Post a pic of the engine from the top..

If you are using the D15B2 intake.
manifold with its TB and all sensors , it should be an easy task. Assuming you still have the map sensor and evap solenoid on the firewall location.
And its oem throttle cable, that one is lonnnng.
 

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Your map sensor is inside that black box next to wiper motor iirc. same for the evap solenoid.
 

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Try the bolts by themselves to make sure threads are good.
Prelude seat may be slightly different than the crx.
I swaped mines with integra seats, I got them for free.

I used the crx seat pans and rails but used the Teggys foam and fabric to ensure perfect fitment, again IDK if that can be achieved with the prelude seats, you will have to try it out. I did had to add a piece of foam to the seat pan because the integras did not had that extra foam on them.
I used the Teggys back support but had to drill 1 hole to the bottom bracket( the one that bolts to the back support) to make seat set just as the crx. Nothing hard, just a hole and bolt and a nut. If the bolt is not done the seat will be tilted back beyond safe driving, 60+ degrees tilted to the back; not good.

Once the car gets running the seats will be replaced with something nicer and sportier.
Dont forget to install the center piece where the emergency brake is, then try fitting the seats.
 

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Post a pic of the rails on the chassis, where they dont line up.
Given that you dont have the original seats rails chances are you will have to drill and bolt them up where thay stand.
 

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If you have acces to a welder its easy.
I'm assuming you are a good welder. Lol

Just weld a hardened grade steel nut like grade 8 + to the chassis, at the position needed to match the rails and you are done.
cheap nuts can strip easily.

If the chassis area is not flat then fabricate the base on the chassis or floor pan. Remember to use either weldable primer or something to prevent rust in the future.

Leave the holes that dont line up alone, save the time and work on something else.

Jmo
Btw by welding a nut I mean.
Measure, drill a hole the size of the bolt being used, use a flage nut and weld it on the hole with the washer side facing you( hex side into the hole).....
 

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The coolant hose only runs parallel to the pipe that connects the valve cover to intake hose. Not to IT as in a T connection.
 
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