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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
FYI those are (4th gen) 92-96 Prelude seats.
Thank you for the info, 4th gen ludes are pretty rare in my area. After thinking it over I think I'll just borrow my neighbors impact and send it home. There's only one concern of mine:
1. Will using a nut to secure the bolt on the other side of the chassis be a safety risk?
  • rust
  • not tight enough
The alternative to using a nut and bolt would be to use a thread tapper, whichever one is more secure I will use. Sorry for asking so many trivial questions but I just want to make sure :)

One more thing, on the front mount for the right rail, there is a gap between where the top of the rail hits (the bottom doesn't meet the chassis). Would I need a small plate there to bridge the gap?
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Thank you in advance!
 

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If you are not using the stock reinforced mounts for the seats, you will need to use very large washers ("fender washers") or better yet steel plates on both sides of the sheet metal to spread out the load so the bolts don't just rip through the sheet metal in an accident. You also need some sort of positive locking on the nuts to keep them from backing off. Double-nutting them is one method, but it does take some extra space. Using self-locking nuts (e.g., Nyloc) can also work. Or something like Loc-Tite thread locker.

You might want to go back to the junkyard and measure the mounting points for the car you got the seats from, and check them against other Civic-type cars of the same generation. Ideally, against CRXes. If you can find CRX seats to transplant the Prelude covers and foam onto, that might even be best.

--DD
 
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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
If you are not using the stock reinforced mounts for the seats, you will need to use very large washers ("fender washers") or better yet steel plates on both sides of the sheet metal to spread out the load so the bolts don't just rip through the sheet metal in an accident. You also need some sort of positive locking on the nuts to keep them from backing off. Double-nutting them is one method, but it does take some extra space. Using self-locking nuts (e.g., Nyloc) can also work. Or something like Loc-Tite thread locker.

You might want to go back to the junkyard and measure the mounting points for the car you got the seats from, and check them against other Civic-type cars of the same generation. Ideally, against CRXes. If you can find CRX seats to transplant the Prelude covers and foam onto, that might even be best.

--DD
Thank you advice! I'll try to make the prelude rails work since only one of the mounting points is difficult. I have some sheet metal that I can rivet / weld in to make the bolt hit the rail flush. I had some red threadlocker locktite and I can use some locknuts as well. My idea was to drill through the chassis and put the hex side of the bolt on top, and then use the nut on the bottom. Should I do this or use a thread tapper to create a new threaded portion for the bolt to go through? I was thinking rivets for the sheet metal so that if I ever do get new seats it wont be welded on.
Thank you again!
 

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If you have acces to a welder its easy.
I'm assuming you are a good welder. Lol

Just weld a hardened grade steel nut like grade 8 + to the chassis, at the position needed to match the rails and you are done.
cheap nuts can strip easily.

If the chassis area is not flat then fabricate the base on the chassis or floor pan. Remember to use either weldable primer or something to prevent rust in the future.

Leave the holes that dont line up alone, save the time and work on something else.

Jmo
Btw by welding a nut I mean.
Measure, drill a hole the size of the bolt being used, use a flage nut and weld it on the hole with the washer side facing you( hex side into the hole).....
 

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Don't try to tap sheet metal. There's not nearly enough meat there to hold onto a bolt. Welding a nut on will make it easier to install and/or remove, since you won't have to get wrenches on both sides of the sheet metal at the same time.

--DD
 
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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
So it's decided, welding a nut it is! Found some grade 8 nuts from the junkyard, I'll use those if they match the bolt I'll be using, if not I'll find some grade 8 nuts that will. Also need to empty my gas tank, both to be safe as well as 8 month old gas not being good in any way to the fuel system. Maybe I'll weld over the enormous hole in the spare tire well while I'm at it. Thanks again for all the help guys, and sorry for being a pain earlier in the thread haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Got all the vacuum and coolant lines done this weekend, all that's left is wiring. There was one connection which I'm confused about though. The coolant pipe on the back of the block has a hose coming out that's connected to a t piece that goes to the pcv routing. So the top of the T is valve cover to intake manifold and the bottom is cooant pipe to T piece. I don't have a picture right now but I'll draw a diagram really quick. Not sure if these are the correct connections so just wanna post here in case I'll end up getting coolant in my head.
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The coolant hose only runs parallel to the pipe that connects the valve cover to intake hose. Not to IT as in a T connection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Thank you! I think I ended up swapping the t piece and ran 2 separate routes. My bad haha, my memory has been bad recently. I just reviewed a couple diagrams and realized the proper routing: valve cover to pcv, and intake manifold to coolant pipe. I remember I was confused as to why coolant would go through the intake now. Thanks for clarifying for me haha. All I have to do to get this running is put in the new harness and ecu (and fix some connectors), engine grounds, put a couple things back on (alternator, crank pulley, etc) and then do fluids. Thank you to everyone who has helped me in this thread, it means the world to me, I wouldn't be able to keep this car otherwise. Also one more question, sorry ... there is what appears to be a vacuum line on my transmission? I'm not sure what it's for, the transmission is a 5 speed from an 88 crx. Thank you again
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Just got the alternator in, tight squeeze with the bigger engine in there. Got the lower bracket in first and then removed master cylinder and iacv to squeeze it in. Also was putting on the crank pulley and found I needed to chop some of the wheelwell out to fit the tool in. Figured I’d post this info here in case anyone else had the same issue as me.
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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Ok so I thought I got all the wiring done, but still doesn't crank. I found the issue to be my harness has the starter solenoid, thermo ground, and tranny ground cut off. Also missing some ct sensor connectors. When I first went to start it buzzed in the on position and buzzed louder when I tried to crank, turns out it's just because the hazard switch was disconnected. Figured I'd post the solution here because I couldn't find it anywhere else. Can't post videos, sorry.

Also here's some wiring diagrams for dpfi harness:
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