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I just wanted to overview this project with you all to make sure im not missing anything, and also i have yet to purchase the engine... ive been looking around online and this engine seems to be pretty damn expensive for a D series! The cheapest i could find it for without waiting on ebay for one to come across at a decent price because i dont have that kind of time... was 750. That includes the ecu, trans, etc. I just need the engine itself, not rebuilt or remanufactured. Any suggestions on a place to score one of these for cheaper and just the engine itself? A junkyard is my last resort...

Ok so anyway, here is what ive got lined up...

1) The engine itself
2) OBDO to OBD1 vtec conversion harness, now i have a question here.. do i want the 4 wire O2 sensor with this or is there a way to still use the one wire O2? And another thing, do i have to purchase a subharness from an EX and send mine in also from the CRX, then they combine the two... is there any way i can just send in the one from the CRX and not have to buy one from an EX also?

3) Now i know i can use my SI transmission but can i use the same clutch and flywheel, its a 91 Si trans?

4) I will be replacing the headgasket and manifold gasket, belts, etc.

5) Vtec solenoid.. hopefully comes with the engine...

5) P28 ecu

6) Right now i have a Dc sports header on a D15b2 block, will this bolt on and line up to the ports of the Y8?

7) Is the intake manifold on the Y8 going to be tight against the firewall? Do i need to bang it back a little bit?

8) New bushings in the engine and trans mounts

9) I heard that the Oil pump on this engine is a little weak for its Vtec needs... so i was going to invest in purchasing a Z6 pump. Will this mount right on no problem?

10) Odds and ends... anything i forgot, any writeups that are complete out there?

I know this is not as complicated as a B series swap but the pressure is on to get this swap done quick and done right, Any help is much appriciated and thanks again members... :D

One more thing, The site that i found the y8 the cheapest at has the power rating of the engine at 168 hp??? I am certain this is not right... isnt it 130? and the compression they are sayin is a little over 10:1? If this is wrong this place seems shady to me that they dont know their engines, should i still consider buying from them?
 

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A few more things here,

Am i supposed to use the a6 distributor?

I heard something about the injectors need to be rewired... instead of doing this can i just use Z6 injectors and use the resistor box still?

Another worry is i heard that the map sensor needs to be extended to attach on the throttle body

Fan switch needs to be wired also?

There is turning out to be more wiring than i thought... :x
 

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Hey man... I have a lot to say about this, I've pretty much done it and I think I can help you out. BTW at that price, do they include astroglide or not? I can't reply as much as I'd like now, give me a little while, just don't go buy anything!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I will wait for your command brave sir! :rockon:
 

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hcrx333 said:
I just wanted to overview this project with you all to make sure im not missing anything, and also i have yet to purchase the engine... ive been looking around online and this engine seems to be pretty damn expensive for a D series! The cheapest i could find it for without waiting on ebay for one to come across at a decent price because i dont have that kind of time... was 750. That includes the ecu, trans, etc. I just need the engine itself, not rebuilt or remanufactured. Any suggestions on a place to score one of these for cheaper and just the engine itself? A junkyard is my last resort...
That's a bit of money for a Y8, you could probably get an LS motor in there for that much, considering you'll be doing more wiring for the Y8 to run it right. If the motor is running and healthy it's a fair price, but I'm talking no leaks and ready to drop in and go. The tranny is useless to you, and the ECU is pretty much a waste too. What happened to your D? Maybe you should just consider getting the head if you can. Personally I wouldn't take a full Y8 engine, it's going to require some wiring to get in there, it's not *quite* the same as the A6 and Z6, and it's had a small history of oiling problems.

2) OBDO to OBD1 vtec conversion harness, now i have a question here.. do i want the 4 wire O2 sensor with this or is there a way to still use the one wire O2? And another thing, do i have to purchase a subharness from an EX and send mine in also from the CRX, then they combine the two... is there any way i can just send in the one from the CRX and not have to buy one from an EX also?
You can use the CRX harness and just extend wires, but you'll need a jumper for the ECU, OR, you can get the harness repinned for the OBD1 ECU. Where are you talking about sending it out to? I can help you out with this if you want, I've done the wiring stuff a lot.

3) Now i know i can use my SI transmission but can i use the same clutch and flywheel, its a 91 Si trans?
Yes you can, it bolts up and everything works. You can't use the Y8 tranny anyway.

4) I will be replacing the headgasket and manifold gasket, belts, etc.
If you're replacing a headgasket... why would you pay so much for the motor!? That much money is more than enough for a running D series.

5) Vtec solenoid.. hopefully comes with the engine...
It *should*, but if not I can help you out with one.

5) P28 ecu
Good choice, you'll definitely need a harness adapter, and you *should* chip it to run the correct map for the Y8.

6) Right now i have a Dc sports header on a D15b2 block, will this bolt on and line up to the ports of the Y8?
Yes, it will work fine.

7) Is the intake manifold on the Y8 going to be tight against the firewall? Do i need to bang it back a little bit?
No. it will clear no problem.

8) New bushings in the engine and trans mounts
Not a bad idea, but only get the front and rear mounts, the side ones are only going to make your car vibrate more.

9) I heard that the Oil pump on this engine is a little weak for its Vtec needs... so i was going to invest in purchasing a Z6 pump. Will this mount right on no problem?
Interesting idea... I don't know for sure that it won't work, but I do know that if it does you won't have a dipstick any more. The Y8 oil stick is in the oil pump and the rest of the Ds have them on the front of the block. FYI the fllow rates on the oil pumps are:
D16Y8 = 35.3 qt/min at 6800RPM
D16A6 = 46.4 qt/min at 6250RPM
D16Z6 = 47.6 qt/min at 6000RPM

Your choice, but I'd look for a Z6/A6 block.

10) Odds and ends... anything i forgot, any writeups that are complete out there?

I know this is not as complicated as a B series swap but the pressure is on to get this swap done quick and done right, Any help is much appriciated and thanks again members... :D
Given the wiring you have to do, it's only different from a B because you aren't using aftermarket mounts/linkage and mutilating your engine bay. It's pretty much drop in mechanically, extend wires/plugs (which are pretty straightforward) and buy or build a harness for the ECU and distributor.

One more thing, The site that i found the y8 the cheapest at has the power rating of the engine at 168 hp??? I am certain this is not right... isnt it 130? and the compression they are sayin is a little over 10:1? If this is wrong this place seems shady to me that they dont know their engines, should i still consider buying from them?
That's shady... the Y8 makes [email protected] and [email protected] I'm not sure of the compression offhand, but that seems about right, low 10s high 9s.

Am i supposed to use the a6 distributor?
No. You *could* use it, and run on a PM6, but you *should* convert to OBD1 and run it with the Y8/Y7 distributor. You probably heard that because it does bolt up, a lot of people use it like that for halfassed mini-me swaps.

I heard something about the injectors need to be rewired... instead of doing this can i just use Z6 injectors and use the resistor box still?
You mean A6? The Z6 does not use a box, it has saturated injectors. I would use the Y8 ones, simply because the clips are easier to work with and look better. All the OEM injectors are the same size (almost), just some are saturated and don't need a resistor box. I don't know why there is so much misinformation about this topic, injectors are independent of the ECU and the engine, provided they are the right size, and provided proper use/non-use of the resistor box.

Another worry is i heard that the map sensor needs to be extended to attach on the throttle body

Fan switch needs to be wired also?

There is turning out to be more wiring than i thought... Mad
It's really not bad. Again, I would recommend against the full Y8, but if you do get it, you'll find extending wires is not a problem at all. The plugs can pretty much only go in one spot, you just have to cut and add wire, sometimes (like the MAP) you just have to pull it out of the loom. I can definitely help you with this, I'm getting pretty good at the wiring, I made my own tucked harness and I've made a few conversion harnesses for people here.
 
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