My switch just failed on me right after I bought the car. I took the switch itself out and jumped the red to black with a small copper wire from a CAT5 cable I had around. No need to dim the lights, always bright when the headlights are on.
My simple step by step (this is what I did like an idiot):
Rip off the gauge cluster cover (should've unscrewed them actually.)[/*]
Disconnected the light dimmer switch, I used a screw driver to get the plug out, just so I could get some pivot. It was stuck in there good and I have tender fingers >.<[/*]
Take small copper wire, jump the black to red.[/*]
Put cluster cover back on, push the plug into the opening. Cover as preffered.
[I just noticed how old this post is... oh well... my limited input anyways!]
No, it's not too late. I found another switch, but the problem still persists.
The switch overheats when the dash lights are on, so there may be a short beyond the switch. I did troubleshoot all the way to the Fuse box,
and found a residual voltage; although I am not sure if this is significant.
So, I have just been keeping the switch off, but I sure do miss my dash lights at night! I thought the problem might spread, as I spent too much
time in Phoenix last year and my dash must have melted (or at least one
wire). I can't believe I haven't gotten more responses. Thank you for
yours as, who knows maybe the second switch I bought on Ebay is bad too! So, I'll check out your fix action.
Mine got mad hot aswell, but it was extremely finicky, and the only way to turn it on was to physically push the button in.
Lapis, have you tried to just jump it and bypass the switch itself?
I had my switch out, it's not connected or anything. I got sick of looking at the hole in my dash, so I just put the switch itself in the slot without it being connected to anything. Dash lights come on everytime I turn the headlights on. I had no reason to be able to turn them dimmer than normal. They're not bright enough as it is!
My dash lights been jumped [black to red] since about 4 days after I got the car because I couldn't drive at night.
It's really simple, but I could take a picture of what I did for you if you need.
It's true............this Dimmer Switch, the one I replaced and I suspect the old one for some odd reason does not "OVERHEAT" when it is turned completely on?
I wish someone could explain why this is to me?
Yes I've had the car for over 17 years, and all of a sudden when she turns 16 (sweet 16) suddenly the dimmer switch doesn't want to
dim? It just wants to be completely "on" of completely "off". Hey is this a puberty thang?
But seriously what can cause this, it happen with the replacement I purchased on EBAY as well, so I'm thinking it is something exterior to the switch itself.
Just a note, I know its been quite a few months, but I sure have lots of other issues at hand.................Glad I kept my CRX getting about 36 - 40 mpg
It's a potentiometer. Basically, a variable resistor. When it's fully off, the current doesn't travel through it. When it's fully on, the current travels straight through with no resistance. If it's part ways inbetween, and the resistor is faulty, it may get hot. Think about a light bulb...the tungsten filiment is a resistor with a very high OHM rating.