Honda CRX Forum banner
1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Installing differential in Honda Transmission

This install was done on a Honda Type-R transmission. The write up should be fairly universal with the difference being mostly in dimensions, maybe some torque specs, and cable vs. linkage shift.

(Having this around helps, too)



Disassembly



Alright. You have a transmission to take apart and put back together. Actually, it's not as bad as you think. 

Start by removing the backup light switch and the 14mm set screws on the transmission housing. The set screws are located in different locations: one is on the bottom side of the transmission and the other is on the top.





Note! - When removing the set screws, there is also a spring and a ball bearing in there. DO NOT LOSE THEM!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Flip the transmission where the bell housing faces down and put something under one side so there is no pressure on the input shaft.



Get a ½" drive ratchet (and maybe a short extension), and remove the 32mm sealing bolt. It is now located on the top of the transmission and looks like a flat disc with a ½" square in it.



Next, remove the 16 12mm bolts that hold the transmission housing and put them aside. (I have this picture though!)



Now that you have the 32mm sealing bolt out, you can look down inside the hole and see a snap ring.



You cannot completely remove the snap ring, but you have to spread it and remove it from the groove that it sits in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Now you are ready to separate the housing from the transmission.



Put the housing to the side. Now would be a good time to replace the oil seal in the housing and clean up the old gasket material.

Remove the reverse shift holder and reverse idler gear. There are two 10mm bolts. (These are the only bolts you have to deal with once you are in the transmission. I thought there would have been more, myself!)

Reverse Shift Holder




Reverse Idler Gear


Just pull up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Next is the Change Holder Assembly.



Before you remove it, look how it sits so you know how to put it back together.

To remove, just grab the shaft and pull up.




Then pull up on the interlock and shift piece.




And put them back together and place them aside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Next is the gear sets. I know they look scary, but get a good look at them so you know how they fit back together. Then, grab a hold of both sets (there are two shafts) and pull up.





Now the differential just pulls out. This would be a good time to replace the oil seal on the bottom housing and clean up the old gasket material.

The speedometer gear and final gear on the old differential need to be removed. They will go on the new differential. To remove the speedometer gear, I used a 3 pronged gear puller. To put the speedometer gear on the new differential, I put the gear in the oven at 300 degrees and let it cook for an hour. The gear will just drop on the differential. Then let it cool. The final gear bolts are LEFT HAND THREAD! To put the final gear on the new differential, just unbolt and then bolt it on. Torque spec on the bolts is 74.5 ft.lbs.

Did I mention the final gear bolts are LEFT HAND THREADED?

It is possible that the replacement bearings will not be the same type. In my case, the old bearings were two piece tapered roller bearings and the bearings I got from Honda were sealed roller bearings. Save one of the old bearings so you have something to put between the new bearing and the driver (socket) when you are pressing the bearing on.

You will probably need some shims so you can get the proper clearance on the differential. Honda has a list of 80mm shims of varying thicknesses. I used machine bushings from NAPA, they worked great!

You can see one sitting on top of the differential in this picture.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Assembly

The differential drops back into place. Put the housing back on and tighten it down with 6-8 bolts (20 ft.lbs) evenly spaced around the housing. With a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the shim and the housing. Spec is 0 to 0.004 inches.



Remove the housing again, and reassemble the transmission.



Some of you may have an easier time putting the transmission housing back on than I did. I needed the help of another person to get everything bolted back together. The shaft on the interlock and change piece did not want to go back into its hole.





Also, there is a finger on taller gear set that has to fit into a groove on the inside of the housing.



Before putting the Hondabond (Grey Liquid Gasket) on the housing, do a test fit to see if everything goes back into place. You won't want to scrape the gasket off again. This is where my friend came into play. He held the interlock shaft in place with a slim regular screwdriver while I put the housing back on. Don't forget the snap ring that is in the housing. It will have to be put into place before the housing will go back on.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Now that the housing is back on and in place with the Hondabond, tighten the 16 bolts to 20 ft.lbs. Start in the middle of the top using the pattern pictured below.



And reinstall the back-up light and set screws.




And you are done! Yay!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,992 Posts
i propose movement to the "how-to" section...

+1, i might get around to doing one of these... can you feel the benefit while driving and during launch?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well...I actually did the swap into a CTR transmission which already had the LSD in it. I had purchased a Quaife LSD before I bought the CTR swap. I went ahead and put the Quaife in and sold the CTR LSD on eBay.

I haven't been able to drive the car much. I'm still having some issues with it. My CRX has been down for a year now...but I'm hoping it will be up and running within the next month. I plan on tearing down the fuel system this weekend so I can find out what is wrong.

Thanks for the comments on the write-up. I've wanted to write it for 6 months now (that's when I took the pictures), and I just had some extra time today with it being cold and snowy. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I didn't know what the policy was. A couple of the boards I'm on have a policy where you can only have 6 pictures per post.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,754 Posts
jfrolang said:
downest said:
Could you email me the pictures
Right click > Save As.
It would be easier if he just emailed me. And I don't get much email, so it would be fun too. :p

EDIT: as I was typing I thought, hey, I should check my email! I checked and the pics are there, so.... tom - 1 jfro -0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,903 Posts
LowFlyin said:
To put the final gear on the new differential, just unbolt and then bolt it on. Torque spec on the bolts is 74.5 ft.lbs.

Did I mention the final gear bolts are LEFT HAND THREADED?
These bolts always give me a hard time. Any one have any tips/trick/tools to hold the diff stationary while you break these bolts free or re-torque them to spec?
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top