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2,320 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright everyone I know a lot of you like myself, have bought the DLAA fog lights for your CRX. They are a pretty dead on fit for the fake 'air ducts'. However they don't really come with directions other than a basic diagram on the side of the box. This just says you need to buy their relay. However their site isn't helpful at all.

So my best friend and I decided to tackle this for my 90' Si. I had a bunch of questions about these because nobody knew anything about them. So I called my buddy who has a BA in Electrical Engineering and he designed our own safe, practical and easy setup. I owe him a lot of credit in the proper calculations for this and the safest possible way to do it. He had my back the whole time and his help and time was greatly appreciated. We took the time for you guys to photograph everything on the way so I could put this up. So please let me know how it works for you, if you follow this method. And we can answer any questions you may have.

For starters we did our own circuit (using multisim) from the battery and used a switch, relay and fuse. This write up will show you methods on how to install a switch inside your CRX, how to hide the wiring(keep it clean) and mount the brackets etc.

I want to start off by saying we are not responsible for any damages you cause to your CRX or yourself from this write up. But if you follow the directions properly and take caution you should be fine. This is our interpretation of it, it worked for us. And we stand by it. Wear safety glasses and gloves when necessary. And use the proper parts and equipment to minimalize error. :mrgreen:

This is my end result for a teaser:

Things required:
DLAA 12v 55w Fog lights
Power drlll w/ assorted bits/punches
Dremel w/ assorted bits
2-3 ft wooden dowel about 1/4 inch thick
Coat Hanger
40 amp Relay "4-prong"(so long as its enough to handle the foglight amps)
Switch of your choice (3 prong)
10 or 12 amp fuse
Fuse holder
14-16g quick splices
14g- 16g wire (2 rolls or however much necessary) Note: just make sure your wire can handle about 15 amps
Wire cutters/crimper
Electrical tape
Ground connector/rings?
6 in., 8 in. Zip ties - Thin
14-16g Male/female wire connectors
14-16g Y connectors
Assorted small bolts (for potential grounds)

Heres the wiring diagram we made for this setup for a switch, relay and fuse from the battery.

Or one that may be familiar to some of you that I have edited to show whats been modified.

Note: This is NOT for tapping into the headlights!!!

Edit: As crxblues said, by some state laws this setup is not permitted for passing inspection. Check your local laws if you are concerned about this particular way of operation. In my experience most inspectors don't have an issue with it so long as they DON'T turn on with the headlights and are angled properly. However if you're concerned, remove your fog lights before inspection, or put covers on them as they won't know/care that you have them. 8) This is one of the reasons why I installed the brackets this way, easy removal.

Ok the easiest way for this is to disconnect the battery and then remove your front bumper. Once you do this you're going to want to measure up how you want these in the 'air ducts.' I chose not to cut the entire duct out, but rather make a hole that was the same size as the backing on the fog lights. This will give just enough room to pull them through a bit (if you prefer to mount them on the bumper itself -shown later-) and run the wires for them. I marked the back of the fog lights in the center with a white paint and pressed them into the bumper where I wanted them lined up.

Once you've decided that, get your drill and use a large bit or punch, but smaller than the back of the fog lights. I used a 1" punch and then dremeled out the rest.

This gives you perfect room for the back to fit in if you opt to dremel out the rest.

The lights should then be able to just sit like so...

Next for the mounting brackets. This is up to you really and you can improvise, especially if you chose to cut out the ducts entirely. But this is for if you mount them right in front of where you just drilled/punched out. Now I'll say ahead of time that once you mount them this way, there isn't a whole lot of room for the brackets to be adjusted. You'll have some access to one side per bracket doing this method. But, so long as you keep the brackets slid back and kept tight, you shouldn't have any issues. And it will give you plenty of room/aiming afterwards.

Get a drill bit the size of one of the bracket bolts/screws. Then mark the appropriate place accordingly for the brackets to sit. I chose the bottom as it gives the best clearance. This will also allow easier direct access to the wires if you need it. Now drill through and you can connect the brackets. Make sure you line it up right or you'll drill a few more times than you intended. Screw the bolt/screw in with the bracket on the other side. Now your foglights are in!!

Thats it for the fogs themselves for right now, now we start on the wiring setup.

First off, I cannot stress enough that if you haven't disconnected the battery yet, DO IT NOW!!

Ok there are numerous ways to do this, its really your preference. But I chose to go with the most NINJA way possible in hiding my wires while doing this. So I ran my wires that go to my switch through this hole in the engine bay, back in the corner on the driver's side.

It can be a tight fit and the edges can be sharp and possibly strip your wire, so be careful and keep an eye on it. You can dremel the hole smooth if you wish. We taped each wire to a 1/4" dowel and drove it in there. This was a two person job, one feeds the wire while the other grabs it out with a coat hanger through the fender/siding. I didn't remove my fender, but you can do that if you wish for easier access. You can see it through here when you do it this way...

Now you want to pull these wires through where your hood latch cable goes into the car. So your wires will end up by your pedals etc. Leave enough length in these wires to hook up to your switch (wherever you choose to mount it) as that will vary in preference. I hooked my switch up right next to the sunroof button. :)b

After doing this you can setup your switch if you want. I drilled out a hole that fit the back of my toggle switch and chose to put it next to the sunroof button. You can get these switches at most auto part stores or in my case Radioshack. Get a 3-prong just to be safe, even though you probably won't use the load line. I wanted a light up one so I knew if they were on during the day by mistake. And for the 007 effect :D

Now strip the ends of your wires and place 14-16g female wire connectors on each end and crimp them down(Not the load). Mark your wires so you know which is which in the engine bay. The one wired to "power on" will be feeding to the relay and the one wired to "power off" will be part of a splice or a Y-connector later on to the fuse.

Now if you really feel like a baller I suppose you can solder these on. But for now you shouldn't until everything is setup and working in order. I didn't do it lol. But now if you'd like you can fasten your switch! I tied a little bit of the slack wire i had together behind the switch. This will all be hidden when you put the fuse box panel back on. Absolutely invisible!

Now go back to the where you originally fed the wires. You should have 2 marked, coming out ready to run throughout the engine bay.Because my route can't be seen, this is essentially where my wires went.

I ran behind the silver box (sorry lol), behind all these lines/vacuums etc.(6 in. zip-tied), then under the lip on the back of the engine bay. When I came across the foamy padding I ran behind that until I came out the other end. Then ran diagonally to where the strut bolts are. I 6in. zip-tied to my strut brace (not in the pic) then ran behind and under the air intake box right around to the battery. With enough slack past the battery, you can cut your wires. Your length will vary depending on where you chose to locate your switch. Again make sure they have a little bit of length to work with. You need room for error just in case. Otherwise you'll be out buying more wire.

Keep these wires marked still (from the switch). Make sure when you use your 6in. zip ties, that you pull the wires a bit to tighten them. Not too hard or you'll pull them off of your switch, so be careful. In fact I had my friend hold them both at the entry point while I got them nice and snug. This makes them easier to tuck away and hide.

Break time!!!
Yea thats right, we caught the ice cream truck. Haven't in years hehe. Nostalgia anyone? Dan got the cookie sandwich, I got Ironman!

Now is when you can go back to your fog lights. Go ahead and make a wire for your fog light's power to be connected together(white wires). Connect them both together using the 14-16g male wire connectors. 14-16g Quick splice or 14-16g Y-connect this line and run the wire long enough to travel through the bumper/headlight area and back to the battery while still having some slack to work with. Put a 14-16g female wire connector on this line and set it aside as this will feed to the relay.

The fog light grounds (black) are generally grounded separately. This is up to you. I'd recommend it honestly. However, I put my ground wires together, then made one ground to the chassis. I quick spliced the ground line on the driver side and placed my ground on the chassis shown here... I got these rings I don't know what they are called lol for the wire connectors to plug into. I used a bolt that was already in the chassis behind the headlights. My foglight ground/s went here.

Now is where you want a buddy or two. Its time to put the bumper back on. You'll need someone to hold it while you carefully tighten the wire slack up while you raise your bumper. Just make sure the wires don't get disconnected in the process so be careful and don't drag on too many surfaces. Try to get the bumper on it one shot. You can bolt it on loosely so you can remove it again if need be. But now you should have all your foglight power wire and your ground ran through your bumper/headlights or wherever you decided to run them. The power wire needs to meet back at the battery near the other wires.

Note: When routing the fog wires together you can use zip ties to keep them snug along the inside of he bumper. This keeps it neat as well as gives you access to the wires right behind the lip/bumper. It'll make it so you don't have to always remove the bumper to get to your wires. Just electrical tape your wire connections to keep it more safe from water from underneath the car. You can then tuck any excess wire under the plastic guarding and behind the lip.

Ok now get out the fuse holder. This should be a 10-12 amp fuse holder so your wires don't overheat if you mess up. You can use a connector like the kind used for stereo amplifiers. This will go onto the positive (+) battery terminal. Make sure its a kind made for the wire connectors you are using for this wire. Use the appropriate wire connectors for the fuse holder you chose (in my case 14g) and connect it to the wire that runs to your switch. This will be going to the switch on the "power off" prong. The other side will go to the battery when you are finished later on.

Now between the fuse and the switch, and I more specifically mean right by the fuse/battery area, use a 14-16g quick splice and run a wire that will now go to power your relay we are about to use.

Your relay should be a good quality so you don't have issues with it. I thought a Radioshack relay would work. But it failed very quickly. This is what we did to it as a result after using firecrackers on it lol...

We recommend a solid relay from Advanced Auto Parts. We went with a BWD Zettler 40 amp "4-prong" relay. Most if not all will have the same numbers on them. If they don't, look your relay up or contact me if you'd like. If it has a mounting hole, it'll make things a lot easier for you. Mine didn't, but thats ok. Bosch relays are good too. Either way just make sure it can handle the amps, and that it is a 4-prong.

Note: Using the BWD Relay your wire connectors going into the relay might need to be a step smaller than the ones used previously. As the prongs are thinner on this relay than other relays we used.

Alright now is where we wire up the relay. Its pretty simple from here. As shown on the diagram, you will have numbers for each prong. Place your other wire from the switch(Power on) and use the 14-16g female wire connector and hook it up to #85 on the relay.

Now take your foglight power wire (14-16g female wire connector on the end) and connect it to #87 on the relay

Next, take the wire you spliced from the fuse-to-switch(off) and with its 14-16g female wire connector, hook it up to #30 on the relay.

Now cut a wire of appropriate length and using 14-16g female wire connectors on both ends hook one side into #86 of the relay. The other end is a ground which you can place wherever you'd like. But we suggest putting it as close to the relay as you can. We just used one of the chassis bolts right behind the headlights again with another "ground ring."

Now you shouldn't have the relay mounted or placed yet, it is best however to mount it as close to the battery area as possible when you do. I put mine right below the headlight adjustment bolt. I "boxed" it on with 8 in. zip ties around the thin chassis piece across from the battery. Keep the relay free for right now and make sure that none of the ends are disconnected. Also make sure none of the ends are touching each other. All wires at this point should be connected (minus your fuse line). If not you missed a step.


You are now ready to reconnect your battery. Once you have done so you can connect your fuse holder line (the only open one left) to the connector you placed on the positive terminal. This will complete your circuit and its now live. BE CAREFUL!!! Now get a buddy to look at your lights while you flip your switch "on."

Now you have installed your DLAA foglights!!!! If they haven't turned on you need to re-check the following...

1.) Switch connections
2.) Ground connections
3.) All relay connections
4.) Make sure your bulbs aren't burnt out
5.) Make sure your fuse isn't broken
6.) Make sure your relay is switching on(working) Note: if its working you will hear a click from it.

If you go back to check those just disconnect the fuse holder this will nullify the circuit.

Now you can go ahead and tighten the bumper back on and allign it. And you can tuck your left over wires if you want. I rolled mine that connected to the relay into a circle, zip tied them and am making a custom cover to hide them from plain view. Now aside from the wires here you shouldn't be able to see the wires running from anywhere. I tucked my grounds behind the headlights and around the chassis in those areas.

And if you feel up to it you can always go back and solder your connections.

As far as mounting your relay, if you have a box to put it in or something makeshift that mounts, that will work. I "boxed" mine with zip ties. The most important part is to allow easy access and keep the wires facing either up or outward. Mine is right across from my battery behind the headlights.

If you have a mount, you can mount it to the end of the headlight adjustment bolts like so...

Now you can adjust the position of your foglights, be careful they get HOT HOT HOT and fast!!!!


You are finished. Hopefully you have Papa Johns on speed dial and some beer ready to congratulate yourself!

Good luck and enjoy your new foglights!!! :)b :)b :)b

889 Posts
nice but you wired them wrong. in most states the fog lights should turnoff when the high beams are turned on and should operate this way to pass inspection. you should have wired the switch as a negative trigger for the relay and wire the other side of the relay to the positive lead for the low beam headlight. 30 to a + battery source and 87 to the + lead of the fog lights.

2,320 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I know all that, but thats not what I wanted. I want them specifically independent of any other circuits. My Inspection buddy doesn't care. And if you feel slick when they ask to turn the high beams on you can flip them off at the same time, making it appear that its hooked up that way. Or you can just remove the foglight before inspection, or cover them like jeeps and trucks. Its as simple as that.

Bottom line I didn't do this based on legality issues. I did it for aesthetics and function on dark country roads. I'll hardly ever use them but when I go to N16 I'll be in CT and I'll be needing these lights on back roads, as well as where I surf and camp here is pitch black at night.

5,196 Posts
I just wired mine and i had a question(s).When you turn on your Foglights do they spread the light?Mine wont spread the light.I dont know how to explain this,is like i turn them on and the beam just goes straight. Also how do you adjust your foglights? I try moving mine but wont move at all.

2,320 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think I know what you mean. The lights do spread out, in fact enough so (on mine) if you look at them from standing to the side of the car you can still get beamed real good like a high beam lol. Your adjustment room will vary depending on how large the hole you drilled is, and how they are sitting in the bracket. I have mine bolted in the bracket as far in as they will go on the track. So they have minimal room to move. If I slide them back more I'd be able to move them more. But if you attached them to the bumper like I did you might make them sit high and rub on the upper part of the air duct. This is where a larger drill hole may come in handy. Try sliding them into the middle of the bracket though. Either way you'll have more room. What DLAAs did you get? White, Yellow, Rainbow?

Edit: Actually as far as spreading out. When you get them lined up if you turn them on with your headlights and you're driving, you'll notice street signs are lit up as if you had your high beams on. :)b And they're nowhere near as bright and they sit much lower so hopefully that gives you an idea of the width they have.

2,320 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well the glare for the most part is going to vary depending on how you angle them. I have mine aiming a little bit downward and out. This is for 1.) consideration of other drivers 2.) Broadening my path of visibility outward instead of more distantly.

What I did when I first put them in was I drove behind my gf for 10 miles at night with them on, rural and urban areas. And then I drove towards her head on when she had parked up the street ahead. Never was there an issue with glare for me having them aimed this way. She was in a low little Yaris too, so if it was going to effect anybody cars like hers would be ideal targets. I have never been beam-checked with them on either. I get more issues from my 9005 mod lol. The state inspector also approves of them at this angle.

As far as HIDs go, I'm not sure, but I've been curious myself. The bulbs that came with the DLAAs don't have any info on them, so I think its going to end up being an experiment with HIDs lol.

1,133 Posts
great right up, i was planning on doing the bosch 150's, but this is way better then what i planned and is more safer. thank you, i'll use the same setup on my rex, minus the switch you used. i might either use a foglight switch out of honda in the junk yard or buy a less bulky one at autozone or advanced auto. i think we should be able to rate post like how to's and such. :)b

1,310 Posts
Bosch ones fit/look more like stock. IMO they're better. I've got them on my crx, if you wanna go check out my build thread, the first page has pictures of them. My wiring was similar, except I ran power for the relay from headlights, so that the fogs can only come on if my headlights are on (so I don't accidentally forget them on) although I may change that.
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