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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i get a shake when i brake. it has been narrowed down to the driver side spindle. i have a question and a request.

Question: Can a beginner(me) change out the spindle himself? If so, can does someone have a step-by-step?

Request: Does anyone have a driver side spindle they wanna sell?
 

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By spindle, do you mean knuckle? If so then you shouldn't have any trouble. You'll need everything you need to remove your suspension, plus a 32 mm socket, a pickle fork, and a big hammer (nope, not kidding). It should have a step-by-step in the factory service manual (free in pdf form in a sticky ).
 

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Is the shake in the steering wheel or in the brake pedal? or both?

The spindle is the portion of the hub assembly that holds the wheel studs. To remove that you must press the wheel bearing out. This means destroying the bearing of course.

I don't suggest you try a spindle yourself if you're a beginner. That's not to say it's impossible to do without someone's help. You'd need at least either a factory service manual or good mechanical aptitude. A good set of tools is on the other hand a must.
 

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Here's sumthin you should read on before jumping to the conclusion that its your spindle: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml#

I changed my pads out only about a couple months ago, but my mistake was that I didn't properly break them in. So therefore I have the same problem when the brakes have warmed up after a couple of mins of driving. From my understanding from the site, depending on the condition of the rotors, you could just get some garnet paper and rub the rotors down to remove excess pad material. But if you still have the same problem, go for some new rotors and pads and break them in correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
the guy that did all my mechanic work(reseal the engine, springs/shocks, exhaust, etc.) said it was bad, and when i lifted each side, i can't wobble passenger side wheel, but the driver side wheel does have some play. so, i am pretty sure it's that.

and to my understanding the bearing thing would only apply if i change out the bearing itself. i wanted to just change the whole spindle arm thingy(my sincerest apologies for the lack of technical jargon).
 

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1990crx said:
the guy that did all my mechanic work(reseal the engine, springs/shocks, exhaust, etc.) said it was bad, and when i lifted each side, i can't wobble passenger side wheel, but the driver side wheel does have some play. so, i am pretty sure it's that.
just because there is play when you shake down the wheel it doesn't mean it's automatically the spindle. Actually, even if it was the spindle it can't be the spindle anyway. There are no parts to wear out in the spindle. If a spindle is wobbling, it is because the wheel bearing is bad.

Back to what I was saying... if there's lateral play (meaning you hold the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock) and shake it down, it can mean one of three things: 1- inner tie rod 2- outer tie rod 3- wheel bearing. If there's play when you shake the wheel down holding at 12 and 6 0'clock it means one of three things. 1- upper balljoint 2- lower balljoint 3- wheel bearing.

It seems to me your mechanic might have just given you a general diagnosis and didn't actually look for wear in these specific areas. Get a second opinion.

and to my understanding the bearing thing would only apply if i change out the bearing itself. i wanted to just change the whole spindle arm thingy(my sincerest apologies for the lack of technical jargon).
You cannot remove the spindle without first pressing the spindle out of the bearing. Once you do that, you destroy the bearing because you separate the cage and the race. To replace the spindle (which I've never had to do even when I worked at an Acura Dealership where as you could imagine alot of cars came through) means you have to replace the bearing as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
my sincerest apologies. he actually showed me were the problem was, but like i said i don't know the proper terminology and i'm just using what i remember. he had the suspension off. it was the arm that had the housing for the studs, and he did say that the bearing could be replaced, but that just changing the whole spindle might be easier. right where the studs are, i moved it around myself and it did have play, and to my understanding it shouldn't. like i said, i think i'm just confusing you all.
 

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1990crx said:
my sincerest apologies. he actually showed me were the problem was, but like i said i don't know the proper terminology and i'm just using what i remember. he had the suspension off. it was the arm that had the housing for the studs, and he did say that the bearing could be replaced, but that just changing the whole spindle might be easier. right where the studs are, i moved it around myself and it did have play, and to my understanding it shouldn't. like i said, i think i'm just confusing you all.
First off, no apologies necessary. At one time all of us knew nothing about cars or car terminology.

Now with regard to the bold text in what I quoted of you above:

You're not confusing us at all. If anything, your mechanic has got you confused because you still keep thinking that the spindle can be replaced and the whole problem will be solved. Let me give you a break down of the parts that make up the hub assembly...

A wheel bearing is press fit into the hub. A big C-clip holds the bearing in place. A spindle containing wheel studs is then pressed into the wheel bearing while it's already in the hub. This means that to get the spindle out of the hub so you can replace it, it must be pressed out of the hub. Once you do this, the bearing which held the spindle into the hub separates as it is also comprised of several pieces. One of those pieces being the inner race, will stick to the spindle as it is pressed out. This is what destroys the bearing causing it to need replacing as well.

I think your mechanic is guilty of an "illegal use" of the word SPINDLE. People often refer to the whole hub assembly as the spindle. That is wrong because the spindle itself is just the portion that has the studs in it. I'm almost certain your mechanic is advising you to just replace the whole hub assembly. This makes things much easier for him but also makes them very expensive for you.

Let me explain: He probably doesn't have a hydraulic press and that's why he's suggesting you replace the whole hub assembly. Well, the thing with that is you should never have to replace a whole hub assembly unless you've gotten into an accident and it is bent. And if you do replace the whole assembly, you almost undoubtedly have to go with a junkyard piece because that part from the dealership would put you in the poor house. Well, here' the thing with that... you shouldn't replace an entire hub assembly with a used one and not replace the wheel bearing with a new one. For if you don't replace the bearing, who is to say this new old part is any better than the one you have in your car? And even if it is, how long before it gets to where yours is right now?

Your mechanic is making things difficult for you by trying to keep it simple for him. Get a second opinion. Go somewhere where they have the ability to install press fit bearings. btw- flat rate labor for a bearing is 1.5 hrs.
 

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Another thing just so you know, a shaking in the steering wheel or the brake pedal is usually not caused by a worn wheel bearing or spindle as you mechanic puts it. By the time a wheel bearing is causing you that much shaking and vibration, you would've already had screeching, squeeling, and roaring from the wheel bearing prior.

Like I said, get a second opinion and have them look for wear in the things I mentioned to begin with.

You still didn't say if the shaking is in the steering wheel or the brake pedal. Help us help you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
the shaking is most definitely in the steering wheel. i have a separate problem with the brake pedal, lol. unless it's related and i just don't know. i was told by my friend that sold it that it's the master cylinder. every once in a while the brake pedal will sink while i am at a stop. i can brake just fine, but at a complete stop it starts to sink. but it does NOT shake.

and you are right, it was the hub he was referring to. and it was because he didn't have the press. another mechanic said he did have it but i thought that maybe the shaking might have warped the housing somehow and it would be better to just change out the hub.

thank you millions for the help so far. very informative.
 

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the brake pedal sinking is most likely the master cylinder.
when you replace make sure to bench bleed before installing.

also not having proper torque on the axle nut can make the wheel bearing go bad, and leave you in the position that your in now.

scarponze
 
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