Drum Brake Overhaul

When I did my rear brakes, I did it at work (Big O at that time) and instead of doing it on the car, the tech there told me to take the whole brake assembly, backing plate out, and install the shoes and hardware on the bench. Then throe the whole assembly back up onto the spindle. Or whatever its called...

But I dunno, I've done it both ways on Hondas, and its really not that complicated. Just keep it clean.

Bittles is right on Matt.

I don't normally pull the whole rear hub and backing plate to do rear brakes,but if your looking to do a quality restoration on your rear brakes it can't hurt.

Since your going to be pulling the rear hubs off anyway check the hub bearings for any excessive play.Also most definatly replace the rear wheel cylinders as they are a leak source when they get old and the seals dry up or tear.
EEhh you could replace the rear springs as well,but its not absolutely necessary.I'd do it,but then again I'm VERY picky about my brake work.
GL Matt!

if new springs cant hurt, then ill put them in. im ok with repalceing pretty much any wear part, the car has almost 300k miles on it.

to pull the rear hub..do i ahve to press it out?

[email protected]

Parts stores sell rebuild kits for like $15. They include all springs and clips. I will be doing this job soon also.
Are you interested in doing a detailed write-up? I am sure some people (like me!) will appreciate it.

hey matt, if you notice on the HF drums there are no threaded holes like on the stock drums so that you can push the drum out.

i recommend you drill and tap some holes so that you can perform this function on the HF drums. or else you MIGHT be stuck in the future not being able to (easily) take the drums out.

the HF drums i put on had a severe lip from being worn out and have trapped the shoe as it expanded preventing the drum from coming out. the ones i sold you are pretty evenly worn so you shouldnt have as bad of a problem as mine, but you should be aware of the possibility and plan for the future.

The rear hub is not pressed on, nor are the bearings.

I'd replace the cylinders and springs. Also check if the Honda (I assume you are going with OEM parts) cylinders come with new bleeder screws. Mine from Advance did

tyson said:

hey matt, if you notice on the HF drums there are no threaded holes like on the stock drums so that you can push the drum out.

i recommend you drill and tap some holes so that you can perform this function on the HF drums. or else you MIGHT be stuck in the future not being able to (easily) take the drums out.

the HF drums i put on had a severe lip from being worn out and have trapped the shoe as it expanded preventing the drum from coming out. the ones i sold you are pretty evenly worn so you shouldnt have as bad of a problem as mine, but you should be aware of the possibility and plan for the future.

Click to expand...

No offence tyson,but why waste time by threading the drums when all you really need to do is de-adjust the starwheel #24,25 and 26 in the diagram?
There should be an access plug in the backing plate where you can do this.
After the wheel is de-adjusted you can pull the drum off.That is unless the adjuster isn't frozen.

I find at work if a drum is being stubborn I give it a tap with a hammer to loosen the rust bond.
...still Matt GL on your Brake job.

hmm, all this excellent info. i will do my best to document and take pics when i do all this.

Im going to reread everything agin, but I wanted to point out that im retarded because I knew they were not pressed on haha, Im always the one pointing out you can do a rear disc swap by unbolting them, I just forgot that it could go the other way haha.

tyson, I had my buddy check those drums and he said they were within service limits for sure, so thank you for that.

scott, yeah im gettign them from honda, and according to the picture they include those.

thanks guys! Im excited to finally be wrapping up all my installation stuff and finally driving the car again in time for summer. it should be one hell of a ride by N13!

[email protected]

Be sure to grease the star wheel really well. This will help with them not seizing up. Other wise you should be fine with the help already stated.

ollie, you must have a trick to access that starwheel through that tiny port hole and be able to ratchet it back out. i havent figured it out....

small flathead screw driver..... I catch a tooth in the gear, and tap the end of the driver, hoping I'm turning the right way, lol.

Where oh where did you get the aluminum drums? I'm interested.

BP.

mattminerDOTcom said:

So I got some new fancy aluminum drums from Tyson, so Im gonna overhall my rear brakes. Here is the picture I am working off of.

So far I have the new drums and I got some Porterfield carbon kevlar shoes on teh way. What else should I considre replacing? Im thinking I should defintely get the wheel cylinders (11 and 13).....anything else worth picking up?

Any hints for a smooth drum installation?

Thanks in advance guys!

[email protected]

Click to expand...

Blackbird_Pilot said:

Where oh where did you get the aluminum drums? I'm interested.

BP.

Click to expand...

From tyson like he said!!

They are from a first gen HF.

Tyson, have any more aluminum drums laying around? I'm interested.

tyson said:

ollie, you must have a trick to access that starwheel through that tiny port hole and be able to ratchet it back out. i havent figured it out....

Click to expand...

no. youre like the 5th person to ask recently.