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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today I came to the realization that my bushings are just ef-ed up. The suspension feels very loose. I'm just wondering if people here have done them, and what they thought of it?

I'm going to get this sorta kit:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Energy-S ... enameZWD1V

Is it worth it? The car has 274XXXkms and they have never been replaced before.

The car just feels loose when I take off. Also has alot of play with the engine that doesn't help. I'm also going to look into second hand shocks (I already have the springs) to make it a bit stiffer. I won't do the rear sway bar tho unless I can find a good deal on a stock Si one.

Just wondering if anyone could help me at the same time pin point an odd sound. When I take off normally, or just floor it and let off...or give it mild gas at low rpm like in traffic, the car will violently shake and squeeking noises come from the front of the car. The cross member already has ES bushings in it, but I think they are worn out. The cross member was gift to me from my brother, who stole my stock one and lost the bolts...how nice of him to get one that was on a drag racing CRX for me (not).

I also think my motor mounts are loosening up a little and the engine is getting to much play. Argh, stupid cars and stupid winter for shrinking bushngs and making them feel worse.
 

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ludesrv said:
Just wondering if anyone could help me at the same time pin point an odd sound. When I take off normally, or just floor it and let off...or give it mild gas at low rpm like in traffic, the car will violently shake and squeeking noises come from the front of the car. The cross member already has ES bushings in it, but I think they are worn out. The cross member was gift to me from my brother, who stole my stock one and lost the bolts...how nice of him to get one that was on a drag racing CRX for me (not).
Sounds like you not only need bushings but some front end parts as well. With that many miles on your chassis and the symptoms you described I'd recommend new balljoints and inner and outer tie rods. I'd also recommend checking out your steering rack. Grease the rack good then replace your steering rack boots. The front end parts are relatively cheap insurance that your front end won't come apart.

I need new bushings too. My debate is more an ES kit versus Mugen. I've heard people swear by both. There are people who say the Mugen hard rubber bushings are the way to go (they don't squeak, improved cornering, etc). Then I've heard from people who claim the Mugen bushings are identical to regular Honda OEM bushings. Kingmotorsports says they are different but have yet to produce any durometer results to prove they are. It's a little too expensive a gamble for me (they are sold individually so it'd $600 or so for the entire front end).

I've pretty much decided on an ES black bushing kit. It's next on my "to do list". I've still got to replace both my axles but bushings are next...
 

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If you do go with the ES kit make sure they are the black ones. If I remember the red ones tear easier. When I change my bushings I plan on using OEM. Then I don't have to pay several hundred dollars for mugen(which are not proven better); or worry about the ES tearing, squeaking,or being to harsh.

have you looked into putting window weld in your motor mounts? The only down side is that your car will vibrate like it has hasport mounts.
 

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I've got the prothane set on my car right now. It does make a big difference, didn't seem to make the car any harsher, and only the rear upper c-arms squeak ever (in my experience). I can attest to the difference, there was a few days where I had done the driver's side only, it was really a huge difference. I took left turns whenever I could because it felt better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ti Rider said:
Sounds like you not only need bushings but some front end parts as well. With that many miles on your chassis and the symptoms you described I'd recommend new balljoints and inner and outer tie rods. I'd also recommend checking out your steering rack. Grease the rack good then replace your steering rack boots. The front end parts are relatively cheap insurance that your front end won't come apart.
I should of mentioned that I have new balljoints and outter tie rods all around. I'm going to do the bushings inside the rack aswell with new inner rods because the price is right.

I will be looking into this red vs. black thing, sounds odd that they would release 2 different styles as there site says 'Either come in red or black' as if it was color, which that case I would choose red (I like red :p).

I would not buy the mugen kit for my car...as it's a beater that I'm trying to make college/university with.
 

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jfrolang said:
the black ES bushings are stronger, they're reinforced with graphite.
The graphite is supposed to stop the bushings from squeaking. Which they don't. I've come to the coclusion that the bushings need to be regreased every few years. Being in Canada where it is colder they are going to squeak more.

I'm leaning towards going back to OEM or the Mugens bat have the same resevations as Ti Rider about the Mugens.

The ES's are to rough and I swear over time is not good for the body/frame in the long run.
 

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The kit comes with everything but the sway bar bushings and the trailing arm bushings. It's usually recommended to use OEM/Mugen (they are the same) rubber for the trailing arms. You should order the sway bar bushings with the kit. Also get the motor mount bushings if you think that's moving (it probably is).

I have a very old set on my car, and they are holding up fine. The flanges on a couple of them are starting to soften up and tear, but overall they are holding up very well for the age (5+years).

If your car is just a commuter, you might want to just go with OEM bushings, the ES kit is very stiff and squeaky, it makes a huge difference in road feel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
downest said:
The kit comes with everything but the sway bar bushings and the trailing arm bushings. It's usually recommended to use OEM/Mugen (they are the same) rubber for the trailing arms. You should order the sway bar bushings with the kit. Also get the motor mount bushings if you think that's moving (it probably is).

I have a very old set on my car, and they are holding up fine. The flanges on a couple of them are starting to soften up and tear, but overall they are holding up very well for the age (5+years).

If your car is just a commuter, you might want to just go with OEM bushings, the ES kit is very stiff and squeaky, it makes a huge difference in road feel.
I don't mind stiffness and squeekyness as I have my own tricks to make everything quiet. Stiffness is what I want. I don't want a soft ride. I will probably do all ES. I'm not planning on keeping the car forever. This is a car I wanna squeeze 3-4 years out of and the worn bushings are become too much of a pain to deal with. I don't need motor mount ones I have a B series with AVID mounts, I just don't know how good the rubber is in them. Oh well, it was a free kit.
 

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Make sure you keep up on with lubing the bushings or else you will be replacing them again in two years(this is what I have read.)

Have fun with pressing the bushings out. Everyone says it is really a pain, but the new bushings are supposed to slide in.

This is a video of what can happen with poly bushings.
http://miso.trnetworks.net/~da...g.wmv

I just thought I would show you that since I just saw it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'll watch the vid once I get home. Lubing the bushings? No problem. My friend works at an undercoating shop, and his oil that he uses puts moisture inside of drying bushings, and I'm planning on going 4 times a year once I redo the body.

I'm not gonna press them out for say...I will press them out, if they are stubborn, I bring the torch. New bushings normally slide in? I thought they still needed some force to get them in, but not like what you need to get them out.
 

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That video link doesnt work.

most of your old bushings need to be pressed out, and most of the new ones slide in easily. jsut make sure you clean everything up nice and they will go in fairly easy. I used a hand clamp to get in some of the more stubborn ones.

Ive had 2 red kits and a black on differentt cars. the blacks arent any stronger, the graphite supposedly keeps them from squeaking. Ive nevr had a squakign issue, even over years. unless swuaeking is different from what i think it is. maybe i cant hear it over my exhaust haha. Ive also never had one tear.

DO NOT USE the tie rod and balljoint covers the come in the kit...they suck! and you will lose all the grease packed inside.

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Matt, they definitely squeak!

If you don't have access to a press or want to pay someone to do it, you can cut the sleeve of the OEM bushing out with a hack saw: make a notch down one side and then ust tap it out with a hammer. I do this when they are hard to work on the press with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have access to a 20 ton hydraulic press and torches if I need to melt one out say if it teared out. I've helped with bushings before but never actually did alot. I was mostly holding things or pumping a press lol. I probably gonna buy the red ones since it seems that both sets squeek.
 
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