[RamaCrx]

Anyone know of these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/88-91-Ci ... enameZWDVW

I'm getting a lot of wheel hop off the line. I don't want to get the full race one since I have to get a new radiator too. Jimfab apparently is not making his traction bar at least for now.

Any suggestions. I have a NA b16a now but probably will go turbo next season.

 

[crazi-85crx]

I know this is a little old, but there are no posts and I don't know if he's solved the wheel hop issue.

But, that said, having large rims and soft engine mounts will cause excessive wheel hop. So, seeing as how I know nothing about you or your car, if it is a street only car you don't need traction bars, and if it sees the strip every now and then think about investing in some smaller rims (13-14") in the front to compliment the traction bars; grab some from a J-yard for cheap. Because you have a b16a I'm guessing the engine mounts are already a little stiff, but if they're not, apply some polyurethane sealant (window weld) into the hollow section, if there are any. My last suggestion is just make sure the bars are tightened as much as they need to be to stop foward/back movement, and if you tighten (shorten) them a little extra you can increase positive caster slightly.

 

[Krix]

im using the explicitspeed traction bars, they have done very good for me. I went with them because i knew they would clear an h22. Design is similiar other than how it mounts to the lca

 

[RamaCrx]

I know this is a little old, but there are no posts and I don't know if he's solved the wheel hop issue.

But, that said, having large rims and soft engine mounts will cause excessive wheel hop. So, seeing as how I know nothing about you or your car, if it is a street only car you don't need traction bars, and if it sees the strip every now and then think about investing in some smaller rims (13-14") in the front to compliment the traction bars; grab some from a J-yard for cheap. Because you have a b16a I'm guessing the engine mounts are already a little stiff, but if they're not, apply some polyurethane sealant (window weld) into the hollow section, if there are any. My last suggestion is just make sure the bars are tightened as much as they need to be to stop foward/back movement, and if you tighten (shorten) them a little extra you can increase positive caster slightly.

Yeah I use 13 inch "mini slicks", have Hasport mounts, and car is pretty stiff, actually VERY stiff and my butt feels it after spending 2 days traveling in it.
I broke an axle last year and was told I was hopping and thats why it happened. I'm not really sure how to adjust them. Do you have any more details on it? For drag racing should they be tighter?

 

[chemik]

I have these traction bars. have had no issues with em.

 

[SETI20]

I only see 1 joint. Do you need to unbolt the front of it to adjust the caster?

 

[daveb91]

I have these traction bars. have had no issues with em.

And they work? Are they good quality?

 

[RamaCrx]

I only see 1 joint. Do you need to unbolt the front of it to adjust the caster?

Yes you would have to unbolt it, and spin it and then set it with a nut.
The quality is adequate, it looks strong enough. I guess I don't want to screw up my geometry if I dont set it right. Maybe I'll just take it and get alignment after I install?

 

[baker_jeff]

You're supposed to get an alignment after installing these anyways. :idea:

 

[SETI20]

All good and well.

But I don't see myself adjusting my caster if I have to unbolt the tie rod and wiggle the bolt back in.