Honda CRX Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We overcame several hiccups over the past few days.

  • The DNJ water pump leaked coolant. The square rubber seal was not thick enough. Had to replace with an O'Reilly pump.
  • Fuel leaks at one injector. Massive leak at fuel filter. Replaced o-rings and crush washers. Should have done this earlier.
  • The paint on the header reacted to the exhaust heat and started burning and smoking. It seems to have finally stopped.
  • The timing sprocket was off by one tooth. It ran, but was too far advanced. I was able to correct this w/o removing the pulley and timing cover. Runs smoother now.
  • Coolant spraying out of one of the bolt holes for the AC compressor (car didn't come w/ AC). Plugged it with a bolt and some high temp RTV. That bolt hole must be very close to a jacket.
  • I'm a little bit wary of the J-pipe to resonator connection. The stock spring bolts didn't seal it off so I ended up using the regular bolts that came with the header. Now there's no give in the exhaust, except for the rubber hangers. I'm not sure how long this arrangement will last since the engine no doubt twists under acceleration. The headers came with the engine and I don't know what make.

This was my first rebuild and I still can't believe it runs..... so many things that can go wrong internally. So many things that STILL can go wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
We overcame several hiccups over the past few days.

  • The DNJ water pump leaked coolant. The square rubber seal was not thick enough. Had to replace with an O'Reilly pump.
  • Fuel leaks at one injector. Massive leak at fuel filter. Replaced o-rings and crush washers. Should have done this earlier.
  • The paint on the header reacted to the exhaust heat and started burning and smoking. It seems to have finally stopped.
  • The timing sprocket was off by one tooth. It ran, but was too far advanced. I was able to correct this w/o removing the pulley and timing cover. Runs smoother now.
  • Coolant spraying out of one of the bolt holes for the AC compressor (car didn't come w/ AC). Plugged it with a bolt and some high temp RTV. That bolt hole must be very close to a jacket.
  • I'm a little bit wary of the J-pipe to resonator connection. The stock spring bolts didn't seal it off so I ended up using the regular bolts that came with the header. Now there's no give in the exhaust, except for the rubber hangers. I'm not sure how long this arrangement will last since the engine no doubt twists under acceleration. The headers came with the engine and I don't know what make.

This was my first rebuild and I still can't believe it runs..... so many things that can go wrong internally. So many things that STILL can go wrong.
It is always a sense of accomplishment on a rebuild at first fire up. Congrats.
New headers always smoke at first, that goes away.
Cam gear off one tooth. Easy to do, does not line up perfectly. D16's are off by about 1/2 tooth at the cam gear. You can get a sense of this when you time the motor. If you can't get timing marks to align, usually off one tooth. I had an engine builder do an autocross motor for me on a d15 motor. Car ran poorly, had no top end. Cam gear was off one tooth. Picked up 20hp on top end once corrected.
Exhaust, you can put a flex tube in line before resonator, which may be a good idea to do.
Again congrats. Been a long road for you and your daughter on this car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,821 Posts
Nice to see the project moving forward.

If the exhaust header doesnt have a donut gasket you can buy a "Ball And Socket Exhaust Flange Kit" and weld it in place. Those braided style flex pipes get rusted so fast its not worth the hassle, sand gets trapped in the braided steel and humidity does the rest. That ball and socket style kit will always be clean.
Idk if you can find it SS though.

just a thought
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,605 Posts
a donut gasket
This. It's not exactly donut-shaped. It's a ring with a sort of triangular profile. The header (J-pipe) should have a stub of pipe sticking out beyond the bolt flange. The "donut" fits snugly around the pipe and rests against the flange. The remaining face should have a slight outward curve that matches the socket on the catalyst. Honda PN 18229-SH3-X30.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,821 Posts
My bad, lol
got ahead of myself thinking of the flange gasket facing the catalytic converter.
Good catch!

That metal ring type gasket is $3.49 at autozone. If it helps.
FEL-PRO Exhaust Flange Gasket 23624
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It has all of that including the 'donut'. The problem is that the aftermarket exhaust and the aftermarket header/downpipe don't line up perfectly and the coupling is incompatible with the spring bolts, and so I had to use the solid bolts that came with the kit. I like the idea of having a muffler shop weld-in a ball and socket kit like you suggest.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,821 Posts
Just a thought.

My other vehicle needed exhaust repairs along with friends and family members. After a little thought I decided to purchase a small welder.

The Short version of the story is after the 2nd use it had paid for itself.
I saved over $100 on my vehicle plus $175 I made for a small repair.

I have used it multiple times and its still making me $.

Like I said earlier, just a thought.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I can barely solder, lol! We live on a boat and so there is no place to work except at my inlaws who live 120 miles away. My daughter's boyfriend thinks he could weld it in at his tech school......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
We took it out for a longer drive today and it still has some tuning issues. It's throwing code 14 (electronic air control) while driving, and code 1 (oxygen content). The car idles fine and the sensor is brand new. It doesn't seem to have much top end when accelerating onto the freeway and it has a pronounced miss when the car gets to 65 mph / 3100 rpm. I'm not sure if these things are related but I'm leaning towards going with a stock manifold w/ cat, so that the O2 sensor gets to the proper temp. At startup, there also seems to be a strong fuel smell coming out of the exhaust,.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update:

  • I re-adjusted the timing which cured the miss at 65 mph.
  • Code 14 seems to have gone away. I replaced the jurry-rigged K&N filter with a stock intake tube and filter housing cover.
  • I moved the O2 sensor from the header to the bung in the downpipe and it made no difference. I still got code 1. I assume it's because the sensor is still not getting hot enough.
  • So today, we put a stock manifold back on and hopefully that will cure code 1.
  • Don't know if I mentioned before but the exhaust was too loud. The muffler had also been vibrating against the rear sway bar and undercarriage. So we removed it and discovered that the inner pipe had come loose and was rattling around inside the muffler. It's an aftermarket stainless exhaust with a metallic chrome plated muffler. Not sure the make. So we cut it out and replaced it with a glass pack with plenty of clearance.
  • Once the spring bolts come in tomorrow, we'll bolt it together and test it. Hopefully code 1 goes away and it sounds better. It couldn't possibly sound worse.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Car sounds much better but it's still getting code 1 for oxygen content, even after installing the stock manifold with a different O2 sensor. We checked for voltage at the sensor and it was between .1 and .9 volts. Also checked for resistance between the O2 sensor plug and the ECU and there was no resistance. I can only think of a few explanations.

  • ECU is bad.
  • O2 sensor functions but is giving an incorrect reading. I don't know if the ECU can detect an incorrect reading.
  • O2 sensor works but oxygen content is truly wrong due to leaky injector, vacuum leak, etc.
  • O2 sensor is still not getting hot enough to function. I've read that removing the cat can sometimes trigger Code 1. The CEL turns-on as soon as the engine gets to operating temperature, every time. This car has a test pipe.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top