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Im swapping a D16Z6 w/ P28 ECU into my 91 DX Hatch next week, and I couldnt find a SIMPLE write-up to go by... so I wrote my own.

Im 90% sure this is accurate. I will verify everything next week, but I thought I would post what I have and let yall "proof" it for me.

I'll try to get some decent pictures to go along with it, too.


(*Using a Rywire OBD-0 to OBD-1 conversion harness.)

Written by: Brx017 ([email protected])


1. Cut wire A3 at the ECU. Solder a wire lead, label and run through firewall.

2. Cut wire A7 at the ECU. Solder a wire lead, label and run through firewall.

3. Remove existing pin / wire from B10 (may be empty).

4. Remover existing pin / wire from B12 (may be empty).

5. Remove pin / wire from C1 and put into B10.

6. Remove pin / wire from C2 and put into B12.

7. Remove pin / wire from B2 and put into C1.

8. Remover pin / wire from B11 and put into C2.

9. Cut wire C1 at the ECU. Solder a wire lead, label and run through firewall.

10. Cut wire C2 at the ECU. Solder a wire lead, label and run through firewall.


11. Cut off the (2) DPFI injector plugs on the DX engine harness.

12. Solder the DPFI Yellow wire to the MPFI Brown wire at cylinder 1.

13. Solder wire lead from A3 to MPFI Red wire at cylinder 2.

14. Solder the DPFI Red wire to the MPFI Light Blue wire at cylinder 3.

15. Solder wire lead from A7 to MPFI Yellow wire at cylinder 4.

16. Solder the (2) DPFI Yellow/Black wires together, along with a wire lead.

17. Solder wire lead from the (2) DPFI Yellow/Black wires to the (4) MPFI Yellow/Black wires.


18. Solder wire lead from C1 to Distributor Blue/Green wire.

19. Solder wire lead from C2 to Distributor Blue/Yellow wire.


20. Cut off TPS plug, leaving enough wire lead to resolder.

21. Extend TPS wires. Switch Green/White and Yellow/White wires when resoldering (the 2 outside wires).


From this point on, follow the instructions that come with the conversion harness:

Rywire said:
JK OBD0 - OBD1 Conversion harness: REV C

Please be careful with this harness. There are 10 wires that need to be connected for proper usage. If there are certain sensors that your engine/ecu does not require, just tape off that numbered wire and leave it unhooked. You will need to have a STOCK wiring harness where it plugs into the ecu. No vtec wires, No O2 wires...STOCK. You will connect all these wires later. So after you have a stock harness, plug this one into the stock ECU harness plugs and Lets go:

Parts Lists:

OBD0 - OBD1 conversion harness
OBD1 injectors (Optional)
OBD1 Distributor
OBD1 Ecu
OBD1 injector clips (Optional)
Extra Wire
Soldering Supplies (If not, cut and splice and use electrical tape)

1. Connect the BROWN wire to one of the black wires on the 4-wire O2 sensor.
(02 Heater Control)

2. Connect the PURPLE wire to the green wire on the 4-wire O2 sensor.
(O2 Ground)

3. Connect the YELLOW wire to one of the black wires on the 4-wire O2 sensor.
(O2 12V Switch)

4. Connect the GREY wire to the white wire on the 4-wire O2 sensor.
(02 Signal)

(Because of the number of different O2 wire colors, these may vary, and you may need to try moving these some. These pin outs should match the OBD1 civic and OBD1 Integra O2 sensors.)

5. Connect the BLACK wire to the Vtec solenoid. This solenoid is a
little canister in front of the distributor. It is a gray, 1 wire square shaped plug.

6. Connect the GREEN wire to the Vtec Pressure switch. It is located below the Vtec solenoid. Connect the GREEN wire on the conversion harness to the BLUE wire on the pressure switch. The other wire needs to be connected to a good ground source. This plug is green and round with two pins.

7. Connect the WHITE wire to the one wire knock sensor located on the back of the block. It is a one-pin plug above the oil filter.

8. Connect the BLUE wire to one side of a toggle switch. Refer to Step 9 to complete the check engine light SCS connector.

9. Connect the ORANGE wire to other side of the toggle switch from Step 8. Wire this up so that you have access to check your engine codes. The OBD0 has a LED on the ecu and the OBD1 you must jumper the check engine light to flash the codes. Hooking this up with allow you to check the codes through the check engine light with the ease of flipping a toggle switch. *If you do not use a toggle switch, these two wires need to be covered to keep from grounding out. *

10. If using the GSR manifold and ecu, you may choose to use the IAB secondaries. If so, you will need to connect the RED wire to the IAB Pink/Blue wire off of the GSR manifold. The Black/Yel from the IABs wire needs to go to a 12V power source.

(Optional if using the OBD1 injector clips and OBD1 injectors)
If you decide to run OBD1/2 injectors, the only thing left that you need to do is take the injector resistor box located on the driver shock tower, rectangular and silver with a green plug. Cut the plug off the resistor box. Discard of the resistor box at this time. Take the 5 wires that are left from the resistor box and solder them together. Use some electrical tape to shield. This is it.

Double check all connectors and start it up. You will need to re-pin the OBD1 distributor to match the (88-91) OBD0 plug as well. This step is fairly easy. Just match all the colors up. There should be 2 white wires that are on the OBD0 distributor plug and only one on the OBD1/2 plug and an extra yellow/green. The larger of the two white wires on the OBD0 side needs to go to the yellow/green wire on the Obd1 side. Therefore, the smaller white wire on the OBD0 side needs to go to the white wire on the OBD1 side. Basically you want to have 2 of the like plugs, either male and female OBD0 or OBD1. You can also cut and solder on the new plugs. REV. C

Let me know what y'all think. I'll probably re-write the Rywire part too, and include instructions to wire up a universal 4-wire O2 sensor.

Also please note if I forgot anything.

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