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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a few problems that have developed over the past couple of months.

First, I have a valve lash problem and don't know how to fix that. Tom and Matt say it's easy, but it's something I'd rather not do without someone else's help.

Two, I have a car dying at start up problem. I turn the car on and it starts, but dies shortly after. I have to turn the key on and off a few times before it works again. It also doesn't make the clicking sound when the CEL goes out before starting. My best guess is that the fuel pump is going but would like confirmation before i spend the money to replace it.

Third, Something i noticed today coming home. Not sure if it was from my car or someone elses, but i smelled a burning smell and there were two different ones. One was the brakes, I just changed the front drivers caliper last week and dont know if it needs time to work in or if the other one is seized on me. The other burning smell i think was oil. Ive been under my car many times and only notice the drain plug leaking a little. Dont know if the oil smell was from my car or not.

Last, I have trouble shifting. Ive been grinding gears like crazy. Its not the clutch i dont think because its not slipping. A friend told me my synchros were off, but when it comes to transmission, they're magic boxes that make my car go.

Any help on any of these problems would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
Tom
 

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1. Not a big job at all, check it out in the manual, I can walk you through it if you want.

2. Main relay, not fuel pump. Pull it out and resolder it or pay the big bucks to replace it.

3. Jack up the car and check the wheels to see if they spin freely, and verify that it's your car that smells

4. Make sure the clutch cable is adjusted right, and if it still happens, try some Honda MTF, and then if not call Matt and ask him for an Si tranny.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
One more problem that i forgot about, this would make five for people counting, My car contunies to make a clicking sound when i make a left turn. I thought it was the axle and the boot being toren gave me proff that it was. So i changed it and it still clicks. What else would cause it to click when turning.

Tom, Thanks for the help.
 

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downest said:
1. Not a big job at all, check it out in the manual, I can walk you through it if you want.

2. Main relay, not fuel pump. Pull it out and resolder it or pay the big bucks to replace it.
The "big bucks" is like $50. I bought a new one, the resoldering thing wasn't all over the web back when mine crapped out years ago on my old CRX, but $50 is pretty good peace of mind knowing it will be good for many years to come.

Adjusting valve lash is really not a big deal, I did it for the first time back when I wasn't that used to working on cars, and it went pretty painlessly. Just takes a little time to get the "feel" for it down pat, but that's a matter of setting it just right -- worst case is they are still noisy because you didn't adjust them tight enough. It took me a couple of tries to figure out exactly what angle to slide the feeler gauge in and how much drag it should have when you pull it out...no big deal though. You can do it with a manual you find online or with a Chilton's or whatever from the auto parts store.
 

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ryan_long_01 said:
ought a new one, the resoldering thing wasn't all over the web back when mine crapped out years ago on my old CRX, but $50 is pretty good peace of mind knowing it will be good for many years to come.
Yeah, but soldering it yourself is basically free. Even if you have to buy solder AND the iron, you'll probably spend less, and you'll have another tool. Also, I don't see the point in shelling out for a part that's known to break, why not resolder it and have it better than the factory piece?
 

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Dodo said:
One more problem that i forgot about, this would make five for people counting, My car contunies to make a clicking sound when i make a left turn. I thought it was the axle and the boot being toren gave me proff that it was. So i changed it and it still clicks. What else would cause it to click when turning.

Tom, Thanks for the help.
You replaced the boot or the CV joint? The CV joint is what is clicking. You'll need to replace it. Don't worry, it's not something that needs to be done immediately. It'll just get louder and louder. I drove mine for over a year like that. You will want to get it fixed though.

If you did get your CV joint replaced, you may need to look at the wheel bearing. That will be more of a grinding sound though, not a clicking noise. And the noise will go away when turning one way but not the other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I replaced the whole right driveshaft. I only replaced that one because i thought, with it being the one with the torn boot, that it was the one making the noise. Could it be the otherside thats making the clicking sound?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got under the car today and found that the left axle is throwing grease all over. It seems that i need a new one on that side as well.

So update, problems 1, 4 and 5 are still here all though 5 will be fix soon. Problem two fixed itself it seems becuase i havent noticed it in a while. Problem 3 was the brakes which i have fixed.
 

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Dodo said:
First, I have a valve lash problem and don't know how to fix that. Tom and Matt say it's easy, but it's something I'd rather not do without someone else's help.

Last, I have trouble shifting. Ive been grinding gears like crazy. Its not the clutch i dont think because its not slipping. A friend told me my synchros were off, but when it comes to transmission, they're magic boxes that make my car go.
Valve lash is really easy to adjust, you'll just need to get a "feeler gauge" from the auto parts store. I use one with a bunch of thin blades varying in thickness from 0.002 to 0.025 thickness. The 0.007 and 0.009 ones are the greasy ones because that's all you'll need for valve lash on a D16A6. You may have sore knees and back by the time you get done though. If you know you have a valve lash problem because you can hear it, it must be pretty bad. Note that early D16A6 (and maybe others) had a problem with the valve train that caused excessive valve lash. This was a $500 repair on my CRX when it was about 2 years old if I remember properly. They basically replaced all the rocker arms and the rocker shafts as a single assembly. The problem had something to do with the rocker arms moving back and forth on the shafts which caused excessive wear of the arms. I don't know how widespread this problem is or when it was corrected.

Learn now to double-clutch or shift more slowly (apply less force to the shifter to allow the syncros to do their job). Double clutching is simply engaging and then disengaging the clutch while in neutral between gears. So instead of disengage, shift 1->2, engage, you do: disengage, shift 1->N, engage, disengage, N->2, engage. Make sure that your clutch cable is adjusted properly, you should have 1/4" of free play in the clutch pedal before it starts to move the clutch release arm. If there is too much free play you may not be completely disengaged when you have the clutch pedal all the way down.
 

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^^ double clutching is somewhat pointless on an upshift, the trans input shaft is going to spin down anyway. Proper shift timing, which can only be learned through experience driving that particular powertrain, is all you need. Double clutching is more useful on a downshift, where it's used to blip the throttle in neutral, to bring the input shaft up to speed and facilitate smoother shifting.

I suspect your #2 problem will return with warmer weather, it's a main relay trademark.
 

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jfrolang said:
^^ double clutching is somewhat pointless on an upshift, the trans input shaft is going to spin down anyway. Proper shift timing, which can only be learned through experience driving that particular powertrain, is all you need. Double clutching is more useful on a downshift, where it's used to blip the throttle in neutral, to bring the input shaft up to speed and facilitate smoother shifting.

I suspect your #2 problem will return with warmer weather, it's a main relay trademark.
I'll vouch for that. Pull it off (1 10mm bolt) and pop it open, apply soder, and voila. Problem fixed! If it fails again, which is will, then go and spend the 50$ for a new one, 2-3 years from now lol.
 

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jfrolang said:
^^ double clutching is somewhat pointless on an upshift, the trans input shaft is going to spin down anyway. Proper shift timing, which can only be learned through experience driving that particular powertrain, is all you need. Double clutching is more useful on a downshift, where it's used to blip the throttle in neutral, to bring the input shaft up to speed and facilitate smoother shifting.
OK, it's been a while since I had a car that required this ['76 Civic CVCC I drove in high school ... affectionately known as "the rustbucket"] :oops:
 

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jfrolang said:
^^ double clutching is somewhat pointless on an upshift, the trans input shaft is going to spin down anyway. Proper shift timing, which can only be learned through experience driving that particular powertrain, is all you need. Double clutching is more useful on a downshift, where it's used to blip the throttle in neutral, to bring the input shaft up to speed and facilitate smoother shifting.

I suspect your #2 problem will return with warmer weather, it's a main relay trademark.

"Granny shiftin' .... not double-clutchin' like you should .."
 

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i had a 91si tranny that was grinding through the gears and i found the problem by accident. when i went to remove the transmission from the engine, it took 2 people and a hell of a lot of wiggling and pulling to get it off the back of the engine. the problem was that somehow the clutch disc was frozen and rusted onto the transmission mainshaft splines. although you would push in the clutch pedal, the clutch remained in contact with the flywheel and was really not disengaging. i took a tooth brush and some fine lapping compound and cleaned the rust from the splines. i then put a very light coat of moly-coat grease on the splines and a new clutch and press/plate and like magic, no more grinding. its a long shot,but just maybe...
 
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