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I did a dutch buyers guide for gen2 tech a while back, and I did a translation.
This is not a fool-proof complete guide, but it covers most of the bases, and makes for a good head start.

Ofcourse take the car out for a test drive, and listen for noises.
The engine should purr. Injector ticking is normal, but should not sound out of place. Same with the valves. If it sounds like marbles bouncing, it's bad.
1st gen B16A and B16A1-series engines might have the lost motion disease. From idle to 1500Rpm you might hear a RPM related metallic rattle. As long as it does not do this at RPM's over 1500/2000 it's an annoyance, but nothing serious to worry about.

Try going over a couple of bumps. You should not hear any rubbing or chafing. On extremely lowered cars it is not uncommon for the front tires to rub the splash guard on full steering lock. Make sure the tires run well clear of the fenders, and if the tires show any sign of wear due to rubbing.
This might cause an inspection failure in some states/countries.

On '88/'89 models the rear suspension has the habit of squeaking. This is often caused my bad bushings. Bushings are cheap to replace, but labor intensive. Listen for chatter in the steering rack. Balljoints and rack bushings will cause the car to be sensitive to tracking.
The car should run straight in a line, and should not pull under braking.

Find yourself an open parking lot, and set the steering at full lock. Accelerate, and listen for ticking noises. Clunking is the indicator of a worn CV joint. Whirring is the indicator of a wheel bearing going bad.

With the car running, shift into neutral, and let go of the clutch gently.
Any feeling of tension could indicate a worn pressure disc. If you suddenly hear a chafing sound letting off, you might have a bad throw out bearing. The latter is cheap to fix, but labor intensive.

Put the car in 1st gear. Unsmooth shifting could indicate clutch wear, or worn synchro's due to racing. Honda trannies rarely go bad on their own. Synchro's are the weak spot. Busted trans are oftentimes indicators of abuse, not wear.

How does the shifter feel?
It should go into gear smoothly. 1st gear usually comes with a muffled clunk and vibration. This is the tension on the axles.
If the shifter feels like stirring a box of bolts it's bad news.

If you have acces to a lift, get it on there. Alot of shops will let you use their lift for a couple of minutes if you slip them some cash.
Pay close (CLOSE) attention to the rocker panels. On CRXes those are covered by plastic, so you'll have to peek inbetween and knock on it a bit.
You should be able to bang on it with your fist without rust falling off.
See what the state is of the underbody. Any distortions are a sign of a bent body or previous damage. Look for repaired patches or welding seams.

With the wheels off the ground, jerk them around. They should feel solid, without play in any other direction than the suspension travel. Turn the wheels and listen for whirring noises. Wheel bearings are a pain to replace.
Brake disc chafing is normal, as long as the wheel turns freely. It should be able to make atleast 2 free revolutions when you swing it round.

With a flashlight and a prybar put pressure on the suspension bushings. Torn bushings are common with improperly lowered cars. Lateral play should be non-existent. Rule of thumb is simple. If it feels loose, it's loose.

Worn bushings could be an indicator of wear. But on lowered cars usually a sign of sporty driving, or abuse.

What't the state of the interior? The rear panels and dash are hard to find, and a pain to replace. Keep that in mind. Most trim items are easier to swap. Worn interiors on "low mileage" cars are reason for suspicion.
Worn spots on steering wheel and shifter especially.

How bad are the seat bolsters worn? Does the sunroof work without hesitation?
Try the fan settings. If settings 1+2 don't work that will need a new relay.

Obviously a beat up body is always bad news. Chipped windshields and chipped paint on the front can indicate tailgating.

Rusted roofs are commonplace, and almost impossible to prevent.
Replacing it is costly.

Sticky calipers are also a fairly common issue. Unsafe to drive, and somewhat expensive to have a shop replace/repair. Altho it's not that hard to do yourself.

The rear calipers are especially prone to this. The E-brake cable can also get a bit rusty. Indicators of this are "lines" along the discs, shuddering while driving, and warmer wheels than usual.

Check the car's body lines. How does the hood shut? And the trunk?
Do the bumpers line up?

Open the hood and the trunk. They should open straight. Check all the visible bolts. Have the body panels been removed? Why?
Check the front locking latch plate. If it's crooked it's seen damage.
Look down across the radiator. The subframe should be straight. So should the bumper frame.

Same for the rear. Open the trunk, and take out the floor board. Is there water sitting in the spare tire well? Is there water leaking through the taillights? No rust should be visible.

Also check the body lines of the tire well, especially between the taillights. Any deformation is indication of serious body damage. Walk away immediately.

This is not a complete list, but gives you a fair indication of what to look for.
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