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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, my plans for spring time are:

- Aggresive top end camshafts
- Valve springs
- Retainers
- Performance timing belt
- Metal Head gasket
- ARP Head studs
- Integra GS-R Intake manifold and throttlebody
- Higher pressure rad cap for better cooling

Hoping to gain at least 30whp with this setup. Am I shooting too high? Forgetting anything little? Lets hear some feedback.
 

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Those rev hungry cams are going to want more juice might want to consider an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.... to keep fuel in check. .
 

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Meh... Cams don't change the motor's displacement, they change how the motor goes about using the energy released by the fuel. Increasing the fuel flow a little could result in a slight performance boost - cams or not - but an AFC is an over priced way to do that IMO. If you want real tunability, take a look at one of the free rom editing apps.
 

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Something like that... isn't Uberdata OBD-1? I guess what I'm trying to say is that AFCs simply scale the MAP sensor signal. The fuel and timing maps remain the same... the AFC simply points to a different part of them than the stock MAP signal would have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ah I see. I have access to adjustable fuel pressure regulator if I need one, as well as Uberdata tuning. :D

I also found a site that has a VAFC II for about $220 US.... Seems like a freakin good deal to me!
 

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What the hell is a performance timing belt? You need to stick with OEM parts right there.

And the only thing you'll gain with the GSR intake manifold is low end torque. You might actually even lose some at the very top. You would also have to worry about having the internal butterfly valves open. Something needs to control them.
 

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I believe they make Kevlar belts I think that waswhat he was referring to..... Not a bad iea actually since a stupid litle rubber belt failing could wreck all of the nice expensive shiny parts that you have put into your engine....
 

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I dunno... How well does kevlar hold up to being constantly flexed and streightened? A higher strength belt might make sense if you have a valve train with alot of extra drag and consequently had to increase the belt tension to keep the cam from skipping teeth... But I don't see a high performance timing belt tensioner or tensioner spring on that list. :roll:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The cams and valvetrain are going in right now... I'm at work and the boys are working on my baby at the shop... I hope she's ok! Who wants to start a pool on how long before my bottom end blows? If that does happen... I have a B20 waiting... :twisted:

Running without tuning for a bit... have to be gentle. Putting an adjustable fuel pressure regulator on ASAP. Then OBD1 conversion harness ECU, and tune that b*tch!

Hopefully the bottom end will last me for the summer, when the major work starts next fall.

Opinions and advice?

Jeff :D :D
 

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I run a frog obd conversion harness.
LINK

As far as running Uberdata and a fpr..why?
I run a stock FPR and a chipped p06 for my turboed mini-me.
Now if you are boosted and dont have uberdata I can see the need for a fpr.
But what are you using to bypass the ECU?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I was going to run FPR first because I won't be able to tune right away, and with the ported IM, head, and those cams it will be sucking in ALOT of air, and need to send some fuel in there to compensate and make use of that low end power I could miss with the FPR.

Will be chipping the ECU... everything is in there and put together now! We found out the head and intake manifold are port matched already (BONUS!), and had a Spoon intake mani gasket lol. :wink:

After 16 hours of straight labor, finally got her running again, upped the idle a wee bit, and she purrs! After about 5 minutes of 4000rpm however the ticking starts, so I have to wait for the valve springs to be tightened before I can take her on the road to break it in properly.

I appreciate feedback and suggestions!

Jeff :D
 

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ollie said:
I run a frog obd conversion harness.
Ha...I know the guy that makes those. I traded a harness for some decals a couple of years ago. :)
 

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crome is where its at. if you are converting to obd1 id highly suggest getting crome. its so much better then uberdata.

and why are you going for the gsr intake manifold? it wont even fit the b16 head. and the injector position is too high for the b16 head.

also you may want to check the valve clearance with those cams. and some adjustable cam gears. check both valve to valve clearance and valve to piston clearance. you dont want to just slap them in and slam a piston into a vlave or a valve into another valve.

and what are you doing for compression? those cams will really only perform well at 12+:1 compression
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I actually discovered that my intake manifold was ported, so I don't need anything else. I was thinking of the ITR mani though.

I had the car towed to a shop today and they'll be adjusting the valve lash and the timing properly. Will have her back tommorow!

For compression it should be running about 11.1-ish. The head was milled a little bit which upped it as well. I've got my hands on either a B16 block or a B20 block to work on. I found 12.1 compression pistons for the B20, so that may be the route I take. For now it will have gained alot of power, but it's just not making as much as it could at 12.1.
 
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