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Get rid of the restrictive factory air box and intake tube.
A nice short ram aftermarket helps.
If you have a few hundo why not go "mini-me"?
 

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Definatly do a rebuild. I'm not sure where your getting the engine, and it might not help with power, but replacing some internal parts that wear out now, will save $ and time down the road. d0wnest wrote a great rebuilding article for it. At least put on a decent metal head gasket, new waterpump, and timing belt. As for performance, i would 2nd what ollie said, a mini-me swap will get you the best gains. Plus you get VTEC...which makes your car go 300+ mph :p .
 

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ollie said:
Get rid of the restrictive factory air box and intake tube.
A nice short ram aftermarket helps.
Don't bother - unless it's a long, tuned intake, you would be just as well off by removing the boot on the bottom of the air box and tossing in a K&N panel filter.
As for parts from other motors, I would go for a D16Z6 or D16Y8 4-2-1 exhaust manifold and downpipe. The D16A6/D15B2/whatever 4-1 manifold just plain sucks from a performance standpoint. A mini-me wouldn't hurt either. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok well from what i understand is the motor is the guys brother in law that tore it down in shop class and didn't have the money to buy a new gasket set at the time and that is all it needs....... he also siad it had 2 burnt valves, so rcauotworks is going to be doing the head work for me, or should i just spend the money that i would put into the head on a z6 head? more bang for buck right? should i go ahead and replace the pistoins, rods, and rings?

thanks for your input keep it comin
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ok so ya i was quoted at 150 for just the labor on the head from rcautoworks not including the parts so i tink i am going to go for the mini me, wich is gunna piss him off cuz i have been bugging him about this work for like a month now
 

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If you are doing lots of machine work, you might want to consider going with overbored pistons... but otherwise new pistons arent needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ya i am just oging to keep the bottom end competely stock on this motor, when i do my b18 upgrade in about a year and a half i will do a full build on the b18 but i am just going to do the head on this motor
 

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ollie said:
Get rid of the restrictive factory air box and intake tube.
A nice short ram aftermarket helps.
bobski said:
Don't bother - unless it's a long, tuned intake, you would be just as well off by removing the boot on the bottom of the air box and tossing in a K&N panel filter.
Its not so much the length of the tube I'm discussing its the diameter.
Most stock intake tubes would get choked out by a ping pong ball!
Increasing the diameter of the intake tube would most definatly help with the breathing aspect of the motor.(thus a less restrictive flow,thus more free hp)Not alot,but freed up hp none the less.
But like I said I think the best "bang for the buck" is a nice mini-me swap.
 

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ollie said:
Its not so much the length of the tube I'm discussing its the diameter.
Just like a good header, tubing diameter is a key feature of a tuned intake. That's why you don't see 4" tubing on AEM's kit. Shortening the length or increasing the diameter of the intake tube will raise the RPM range where the intake will be most effective... Just how fast do you expect to spin a D-series motor?
ollie said:
Most stock intake tubes would get choked out by a ping pong ball!
By "most", I take it you mean the HF's intake? The Si intake tube is the same size as the throttle body (around 2 1/2" IIRC) and flares out to 3" at the air box. The Si tube has some ribs near the middle that could be cleaned up, but otherwise the only thing a short ram will give you is more noise.
 
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