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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I got everything else straightened out, the O2 sensor is fine now and I have NO codes. I even got a timing cover and put it on, started the car up and realized I was way advanced. This doesn't surprise me, I had to advance the cam gear one tooth to get the car to run with the dizzy able to bolt up. If I turn the dizzy all the way forward (retarding) it just about makes it to the 16 BTDC mark. So obviously I need to go back a tooth on the cam gear... but I know when I do that the car won't start or run unless I hold the dizzy back... what do I do!?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I reset the cam timing to TDC and tried to time it. It won't start unless I remove the dizzy bolts and rotate it counter clockwise really far, then I can bring it back to the bolting position and it sitll runs, but dies if i give it gas. When it comes back the timing is dead on.
 

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My car did the exact same thing until I:

-Reset the cam timing. The timing can look on but be off due to slack in the belt. The adjustable timing gear marks were a half tooth off on each side compared to stock.

-Adjusted my valve lash to the correct gaps. Ran much better after this.

-Yanked my vacuum hose plug where the purge solenoid for the charcoal canister was. The car idles better.

-Reset ECU

Car now starts right up and idles with no problems.

I had the exact same problem as you, and it was pissing me off cause I kept thinking my cam timing was on. I am running my adjustable at the 0 mark so no adjustments yet. I still have to run my dizzy fully advanced when bolted on (however many degrees that is). It runs fine and ignition timing seems to be about dead on so I still need to rotate the cam a few degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well, *supposedly* according to everyone who's done a write up with a Y8 swap, it doesn't end up half a tooth off like the Z6. Either way I have a cam gear in the mail coming today... to my parents' house in NH. That's a good suggestion though Dren, I didn't really think about the slack in the belt. It could explain why moving the cam gear a tooth advanced would help it. Still it is weird that I set the timing with a light and it doesn't want to start unless it's way advanced. I adjusted the valve lash again and rechecked it a couple of days ago, took away some ticking but otherwise nothing. I also don't have a charcoal canister anymore. Tha manifold end of things should be fine, I was running that manifold (Z6) on my old motor for months with no problems.
The thing that really gets me is that it will start, if it's advanced. Also it *should* run ok if the cam is off a tooth or two either way, but it only seems to like one specific setting. Now I am sure the timing is perfect, and I am also sure I could crank it all day and nothing will happen. I also have trouble replicating problems, sometimes it feels like starting, other times it won't with the exact same setup. Could there be a starting problem due to fuel? There's maybe a gallon of 87 in there mixed with 2 or 3 of 93, no detonation when it's running. Also I have my plugs gapped to 0.035", should I lower that even more?

I feel like I have some kind of crazy one-off motor that nobody knows about, I have to keep telling myself that it's a normal build and mine just has some phantom problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So I advanced the cam gear again and of course, started it up first try. I let it warm up to time it and it dies just after it gets to temp. Then it starts back up a minute later with only a little stuttering. When it died it slowly got worse, more and more stuttering as it ran. So I set the timing, but of course with the cam gear advanced the dizzy has to be just about all the way retarded to get it to 14BTDC, and if i even think about touching the throttle it dies...
 

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nope. that would be interesting, but that head came off a replacement motor for my EK. the car it came out of was a 98 4 door automagic, all stock. I never touched anything under the valve cover on it. so if it was a z6 cam it wasnt done by or known to me

if it were, youd have to change the cam timing 4 degrees on the y8 cam gear to be at true 0.

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