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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im not done with this, I will add to it as I can. I will make a separte thread on the standard h22 swap since the h2b swap is a lot of info by itself.

H22 H2B Swap

What is H2B?

H2B is term for mating H series engine to a B series drivetrain.

What about F series engines?

F and H series engines share the same bolt pattern for the tranmission so the H2B kit can also be used as an F2B kit.

Why H2B instead of a regular H22 swap?

B series transmissions are lighter and have more options (gearing etc..) than the H22 trans does. Some people have problems shifting H series trans at high rpms as well. Not to mention that its pretty easy to find a B series trans fast.

I went H2B because I had a B16 swap so I has the 2B part already :lol:

Where can I get an H2B kit?

I purchase mine from http://www.quartersportsdrag.com/H2B.html.

Bisi has one too http://bisimoto.com/wst_page10.html ...he also has H2D kits and is working on a B2D kit.

Evolution Industries has one too http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2076894

Whats involved in doing the swap?

This is almost a bolt in swap. You will use an entire B series drivetrain, axles and all. Its like a B16 swap...you are just replacing then engine pretty much. You will need a traction bar to clear the swap though.

You will need a D16A6 engine harness. It will plug right up to your sensors etc.. but it will need some wires extended. I know the plugs will fit on the obd-1 H22, the obd-2 Im not sure about. I just started with the fuel injectors and started plugging it up. Once I came to something that was not long enough I cut and extended, like the alternator wire. This is the same for any H series swap, the transmission does not matter.

The H2B swap, in order to keep a good angle on the axles rotates the engine forward. In the process the intake manifold and the valve cover sit high. A factory hood will not work. An SiR hood is not even close. You will need a custom hood, a scoop, or if you're ghetto just cut a hole in the hood and let it stick out. The H22 intake manifold is three pieces. The center section can be removed to save space but it's still not enough.

The transmission stays in the same location it would be with a B series swap. B swap shift linkages are used. Depending on the H2B kit you get you may have a flywheel spacer and custom ARP bolts for it. This is true for the Quartersports H2B kit. They suggest an aluminum flywheel since the adapter is aluminum as well.

The crank pulley on the h22 is a big problem. It huge. I ended notching my rail out for it to clear. You can have yours modified to remove the power steering portion of the pulley to save some space. An Accord Euro R pulley is also an option if you can find one.

The stock location of the alternator wont work unless you dont care about that pesky driver side headlight. A relocation kit from explicitspeed will move it down to where the a/c compressor was. You will need to clear the rail slighty for the pulley. You will have to put it on after the motor is in as well.

You of course need to upgrade to obd-1. I used a Locash harness and a P13 ecu. An ideal setup is a chipped P28 though. Some people have problems with the EGR codes, mine was not hooked up and I never got the code. Dont go cutting all those resistor box wires yet! If you have an obd-1 H22 you will need it. If you are using and obd-2 H22 you will not.

Another thing to consider. JDM H22's have an internal coil like your CRX would have. USDM H22's have and external coil. This will require a few extra wires at the most. You will need to cut a wire in the distributor to run to the coil since your CRX harness is not setup for the external coil.

Three issues with the swap to keep in mind.

With the motor tilted forward the engine drain plug is no longer pointing down, and it can be a pain to get the cooling system bled properly. I just pulled it up on ramps when doing either and it solved my problem with that. You could weld a new drain on the front of the pan, but I was fine with pulling up on ramps.

The downpipe for the exhaust will not meet up and come custom work there may be needed. I had a custom downpipe made for mine at a local exhaust shop.

Various H series engines

The JDM engines are:

H22A (JDM)
Found in: 92-96 Prelude VTEC
Power: [email protected] [email protected]
Stock ECU: P13 OBD1
Estimated Cost: $2000

H22A (JDM)
Found in: 97-01 Prelude SiR
Power: [email protected] [email protected]
Stock ECU: ??
Estimated Cost: $2000

H22A (JDM)
Found in: 97-01 Prelude Type-S, 00-01 Accord Euro R
Power: [email protected] [email protected]
Stock ECU: ??
Estimated Cost: $3500

And the USDM engines:

H22A1
Found in: 94-96 Prelude VTEC
Power: [email protected] [email protected]
Stock ECU: ??
Estimated Cost: $1800 ?

H22A1
Found in: 97-98 Prelude (all)
Power: [email protected] [email protected]
Stock ECU: ??
Estimated Cost: $1800 ?

H22A2
Found in: 99-01 Prelude (all)
Power: [email protected] [email protected]
Stock ECU: ??
Estimated Cost: $1800 ?

Here are some pics of my swap.

Firewall clearance. No banging needed.


Driver side view. You can see how high it sits.


Front view


Passenger side view.


Where the alternator will need to relocated.


Transmission side


Driver side mount


Out of the car




The adapter for the B series intermediate shaft.


Starting to shave the back of the block.


You dont have to do much, just enough for the axle to clear. Check the clearance on the axle before you put it in the car. The band on the axle from autozone wouldnt clear, the axles from advance auto used a different band and cleared fine. I didnt go really far but I put the gasket maker on just in case I broke the seal on the oil pan.
 

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in the end, with proper planning, it really is. .save for the hood.

to make it ultra simple, call up ESP, ask for everythign you need for an H22 swap, adn then you can go home and bolt it in. You just wont have the benefit of having a b tranny.

[email protected]
 

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Could you drop some specs on us, like year/model for the H22 and H2B, bore/stroke, power/torque? All I really know about either is that some of them come out of some species of Prelude... ;)

--DD
 

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overall...

-how much suspension work do you need to do to the front?

-how much is this gonna cost you? (overall average...)

-is monster torque fun?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ChokolAwt said:
overall...

-how much suspension work do you need to do to the front?

-how much is this gonna cost you? (overall average...)

-is monster torque fun?
I rode on stock suspension. None is needed because of the swap but most people do it anyway.

Depends on the deals you find. I sold my B16 for enough to cover the H2B kit. $800. I bought a wrecked prelude with a jdm h22 swapped in for $1500. I sold $2000 + in parts from it and kept the motor. I came across some deals and had little to no money out of pocket.

Lets just say I wasnt dissappointed after the H22 swap like I was after the B16 swap :lol:
 

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Krix said:
And the USDM engines:

H22A1
Found in: 94-96 Prelude VTEC
Power: [email protected] [email protected]
Stock ECU: ??
Estimated Cost: $1800 ?

H22A1
Found in: 97-98 Prelude (all)
Power: [email protected] [email protected]
Stock ECU: ??
Estimated Cost: $1800 ?

H22A2
Found in: 99-01 Prelude (all)
Power: [email protected] [email protected]
Stock ECU: ??
Estimated Cost: $1800 ?
This info is a bit off. First off, H22a1's didn't start in '94, they started in '93. I had a '93 SR-V Prelude (Canadian model). Second, an H22a2 is not USDM. It's European. The H22's in 5th Gen USDM Preludes are H22a4's. I have one of those as well that I'm going to rebuild for the CRX. 92-96 versions use closed-deck blocks but FRM liners were used in 94-96, while the 97-01 versions used open-deck blocks with FRM liners.
Info confirmed on Wiki.
 

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I really want to get started on gathering parts in a couple days. So far I have the engine(h22A),axles,new suspension, DA Front and rear brakes I have a cable shift linkage. I know I need motor mounts, and a b series transmission obviously and I am going to need an engine harness. Can I order one from rywire or a website like that or is the d16z6 engine harness the only harness I would be able to use? If there is anything that i am missing PLEASE let me know. Im trying to get this done as soon as possible.
 

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JohnnyBlaze said:
He was referring to ocamargo17's post above about finishing HIS car which was posted today, so now it's his car that's in question, but thanks.
He didn't specifically say that, but thanks.... :zzz:

ocamargo17 said:
I really want to get started on gathering parts in a couple days. If there is anything that i am missing PLEASE let me know. Im trying to get this done as soon as possible.
Slow down, research and take you time.
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1998426
 
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