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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had a heavy clutch since I got my car back in May. I posted to the resource way back when, and got some suggestions about it, but I didn't want to take the transmission out so I left it alone after replacing the cable. I have some time this weekend, so I'm going to go in there and see what's wrong, I'm guessing the throwout bearing is not greased. Should I replace it? I also want to inspect the clutch to see if I should order a new one soon. I know it takes a while and someone is going to say just get a new clutch, but I don't want to do that if I don't have to, and I have a couple friends to help and a full shop to work in, so it's not that bad.
I need to know about taking the tranny out. I read stick's how-to, and I helped my friend switch his DX tranny to an Si one in september, he has a Z6 in an EF hatch. I remember we had to pivot the motor down to get it off, but there wasn't mention of that in the how-to. Do I need to do that? The reason I'm asking is because I want to know if I will need to drain the coolant as well, if the motor moves much it will need to be disconnected at the upper hose.
It's getting really irritating having a clutch that takes most of my leg muscle to push, I was used to it, until I drove my friend's integra and found myself slamming the pedal to the floor on every shift. If I do get a new clutch, who has the best prices? I don't think I need anything crazy, it's pretty much a stock motor. I may go with a lighter flywheel, depending on what's left in my bank account after I get my suspension, I really like that ACT Prolite.
 

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i have done several clutches on hondas, i never had to pivot the motor down, but it is a pain to get it back on, the best price i found don't hate me is from autozone like 100 even here, its not that hard at all....
 

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I believe Exeddy makes a clutch and flywheel package. It is on ebay, but i have an exedy clutch in mine and i like it. It was the first thing i replaced on my car. its an OEM replacement, so it wont be hard on your leg. Also, and i'm sure you know this, but just throwing it out there, if you do get a lightened flywheel, dont go to light. You do need some rotating mass there or else you will have a very jumpy engine. i would say no less than about 11 lbs. Any lighter and its only good at high RPMs.

Heres a link to a decent clutch on ebay. I'm sure you could find the clutch elsewhere though. Ebay Clutch
 

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I just replaced my clutch about two months ago. You don't have to tilt the engine or drain the coolant. I just removed the front, rear, and passenger side engine mount while the engine was supported by an extra jack. Then it is just a matter of removing the bolts around the transmission and the engine block. I agree the biggest pita is putting the trans back on.

I also agree if you going to remove the trans you might as well replaced the clutch. Going with a different PP will most likely decrease the pedal effort required. Plus for about a $100 you get a new release bearing, pilot bearing, PP and clutch disk...not a bad deal.
 

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It would make life alot easier if you undid the passenger side radius rod at the lower control arm and zip tied it away towards the outside of the car lending better clearance for R&R. In fact, I cannot remember a time I was able to remove any tranny without doing so. I even found it faster and easier if I remove the entire front cross member with the radius rods attached to it. Allocate a whole day for your first tranny/clutch. A dozen times later you may be able to drop the tranny in 45min too. Hour fifteen back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I didn't get a chance last night because a guy came in late and took the lift all night, and I didn't really want to do it on jackstands. This morning, however, a friend called me to open the shop for him, and I went up and ended up helping him pull the Z6 out of his 89 hatch. We timed it, it took 1 hour 15 minutes from when he brought the car in until it was sitting outside with the motor in the back of his truck, and all tools put away. I'm starting to think it might be easier for me to pull the motor and do the tranny while it's on the hoist. I'll probably have time again next weekend, or maybe tuesday night.
 

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Tom,
Have you decided on a clutch and flywheel?? I am also looking for a clutch and lightened flywheel for a stock motor.
That ebay one ^^^^ posted up there doesn't look bad.
 

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downest said:
I went up and ended up helping him pull the Z6 out of his 89 hatch. We timed it, it took 1 hour 15 minutes from when he brought the car in until it was sitting outside with the motor in the back of his truck
Impressive.

Best I ever clocked by myself on an engine removal was 2:11 but that was on the ground without power tools or a hoist of any kind. I Haven't done a swap in so long that the time would probably be triple now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks purple, I found that a while ago and decided to get the OEM clutch. I don't think mine is that worn, I think just the throwout bearing is bad, but I guess I may as well replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok I went in to do this tonight at the shop. I'm getting pretty mad with the car, I haven't done too much work on it in a while and I forgot how everything gets all seized up in there, and it's dirty, and oily, etc etc. Anyway, I was pretty much working alone so I decided to take the tranny out underneath since it's a pain/impossible to hoist an engine with one person. Well it took me over an hour just to get the driver's side apart. The axle nut was stuck (6 foot cheater bar), the ball joint seemed to be stuck, but I raised the hub with a tranny jack and it basically fell out. The axle was hard to get out of the tranny too. The passenger side was worse, I didn't get past the balljoint, it was pretty much stuck on there. It was getting a bit late and I really started to feel down on the car, I didn't feel like going any further. I'm going back in in the next couple weeks to do the suspension, so it will all come out, since I need to install all new bushings anyway.
The worst thing really is I'm getting really discouraged and down on the car. It sucks to get it up on the lift and see all the rust under the rockers that I can't afford to fix (or at least, I choose other things to spend my little money on). I have some kind of oil leak I can't track down too, seems to be the oil pan, but it is the same as it was before the new gasket. Everything is covered in rust or corrosion, and it's a pain to get all the bolts off. Also it seems like the winter has made all the visible body rust ten times worse than it was, I almost (just almost though) want to just buy a clean shell and transfer all my good stuff over to it, the interior is perfect and the motor is running great. It's jsut really really discouraging working on the CRX when there are other people in the shop, like my roommate with his 03 RSX-S.
thanks for the vent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
One more thing I forgot to mention. I'm still missing that passenger inner fender plastic, so dirt is going all up into the engine bay and making everything filthy, and going into the passenger doorjamb and making it creak.
/rant
 

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PB Blaster before and Never Seize after, every bolt and stud. Makes everything dreamy the next time.
 
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