What you can do to confirm if it's a wheel bearing or not is:
...while going about 20-25 down a road of course with no one else around, snake sort of hard left then right and repeat. If the noise goes away on either snake, the problem is your wheel bearing. What's happening is that during the snaking, the load will transfer to another section of the wheel bearing. When this happens, the noise will usually go away for the length of the snake. Then to determine left or right bearing, you have to just put the car up on jackstands and run the car in gear and listen carefully. A stethescope is best, next is your better ear.
Replacing the bearing will be a biaaa if you don't have a press. I've done them with a sledge hammer and the right sized driver but you've gotta be careful. First you must drive and separate the spindle from the knuckle. Next you have to remove the dust shield. Careful, those phillips will stip easy, you may need a torque/impact driver in addition to heat. [EDIT - forgot a step] Then you will have to remove the big 3" diameter c-clip with large snap ring pliers. Heat once again is the trick. Heat then spray with PB blaster. It will get sucked into the bearing housing as well as where the clip goes and help free things up. Tapping the c-clip with a hammer and flat screwdriver also helps break the corrosion for removal. Finally you have to drive the bearing out of the knuckle.
I've found that impact sockets of the right size will usually work well as drivers. Just remember to hit the socket squarely. Oh, place the assembly on a flat surface on wooden boards. "FLAT" is the key. You don't want a wobble when you're driving the pieces apart and especially together.
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