[downest]

Ok of course I didn't try to run the car last night after finishing the wire tuckage. So I get in today to go somewhere and I have a CEL, check the code and its the IAT sensor. The car will start but dies immediately if I don't give it gas... so I hold the pedal a little and now im getting 10 and 14, both the IAT and the EACV. Perfect, switched the 2 connectors since they are basically the same...
So I switch them back and it runs fine, except I'm still flashing codes. Can someone take a look at their harness and tell me what colour wire each one has just to make sure I have it right? I need this ASAP! Thanks!

 

[downest]

Come on guys, I need to go ASAP!! All you have to do is look at your intake manifold and tell me it's so simple!! The IAT is on the driver's side on the last runner on OBD0 cars, and on the back pointing toward the firewall for Z6/Y8 manifolds, the manifold side of the plug is white. The EACV is the black canister thing on the back next to the throttle body... they both have a round plug with notches, just like the coolant temp sensor and VTEC pressure switch one. Come on, someone with MPFI go look!

 

[baker_jeff]

If its running fine now, reset ECU, (unhook battery for 30 seconds i think), and try again. the codes are probably just stored and thats why they're still flashing.

 

[downest]

I'll try it but I've never had to reset the ECU to clear codes before.

 

[Dodo]

Thats why i was still flashing a code 17 for the longest time. After putting in the gounding kit, which had me take the battery off, it went away.

 

[downest]

So would it be the same with OBD1/p28?

 

[rex2nr]

pull the "hazard" fuse from the underhood fuse box for around 15 seconds.... codes will magically disappear

 

[downest]

Well I don't have a fuse puller! Anyway I took my ECU out to put in a new ZIF to work with the Ostrich, and to solder in a new USB thing. Should that reset it?

Because it didn't

Can someone just check the damn wires please? Come on you know I would do it for you!

 

[crxfisher]

Ok, I think this is what you're looking for. I wasn't exactly sure which ones, but I think it's 2 of these:

1. 3-wire plug with Yellow, Red, and Green/yellow
2. 2-wire plug with Blue/yellow and Black/yellow
3. 2-wire plug with Red/yellow and Green/yellow

I don't have the best light in my garage, but that's what I believe the colors are. And for a SUPERSIZE picture, CLICK HERE I hope that's what you're looking for.

 

[downest]

Thank you Tom!!!

If I see you at the FL meet, remind me I owe you a beer!

 

[crxfisher]

Thank you Tom!!!

If I see you at the FL meet, remind me I owe you a beer!

I will hold you to that! Glad to help.

 

[downest]

Reset the ECU (by taking it out) and then I only get code 10 for IAT. I tested it for continuity between the red/yellow wire and the D15 pin. Where does the other one go to? Matt suggested hooking up some datalogging, I'm going to try that next.

 

[downest]

Ok so I'm still getting code 10. I hooked up some datalogging (freelog and ECUcontrol) and found that I'm always getting 50C for the IAT reading. I'm guessing something is broken. Can someone tell me where the other wire runs to?

 

[mattminerDOTcom]

c12 common sesnro ground.

[email protected]

 

[downest]

Ok, I have a bad IAT sensor. First I checked resistance across it and got 0. I wasn't sure if I was getting the pins right, it's hard to reach the back of the manifold, manipulate both probes, and see what you're doing. To be sure, I pulled one out of a DPFI manifold we have lying around and plugged it into the harness, no codes.
Now I need to figure out how to get the old sensor out of the manifold. It's stuck pretty tight and I can't fit any screwdrivers in there, not that I even think they would remove the screws anyway.

 

[downest]

Ok, how to remove the IAT on a Z6 manifold:

Tools required:
long sharp screwdriver
BFH
vise grips

Since the IAT is on the back of the manifold, it's nearly impossible to get to with even a stubby screwdriver. The phillips screws are likely stuck in the manifold, even if you could get a screwdriver in there they would strip.
Solution:
1. Set the screwdriver tip on top of the old sensor, with the handle upright.
2. Pound on screwdriver with BFH.
3. Remove plastic pieces.
4. Use vise-grips to unscrew screws.
5. Install new IAT sensor.

This method took me about a week to come up with, hoping to save someone else the trouble :wink: