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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got her for $380. I originally was supposed to pay $500, but during the 200 mile drive home, she stalled on me, so the guy gave me back $120.

She originally came from Louisianna, so no rust! Theres the usual sunroof spot, but besides that, I havent found any yet! The piston rings on the B18 are shot, so shes lucky to be pushing 50hp right now, and she smokes more than a large diesel engine. Tranny works great, I have a hard time getting it into 1st gear sometimes, but besides that, no grinding or anything, it's mint!

Shes going to be a street legal auto-x and track car. None of the luxury crap. Pure bare performance. no electric windows, no power steering, no A/c or heat, no radio, no interior. My goal is to basically have a large street legal go-kart in the 13s at least.

Pictures:









Pictures of the engine rebuild:







Current Mods

Engine:
B18A1 from Integra
Cylinder Head Bored and Resleeved .02" over
New OEM Valvetrain
DC Sports Header
Unknown Cat-Back Exhaust
Unknown Intake

Transmission
YS1 Cable Tranny
XTR Stage 2 Street Clutch
Prothane Tranny Mounts
Unknown Short shifter

Suspension:
Eibach Sportlines
Unknown Rear Strut Bar

Interior
Who needs an interior?!

Parts Waiting to go in
11.8:1 High Compression Pistons
New Rod Bearings

Problems/Plans

Engine
1. The Idle Air Control Valve is beat, so the car idles like its got Stage 4 cams in it, fluctuating between 200-2000rpm, it's really embarassing. Idle Video

2. The Ignition has a slight gremlin. While driving the ignition periodically cuts out (once every 10 miles or so). One in every ten occurences the car will completely stall out and will refuse to start for some time. 50-80% of the time the car runs fine though. I think it may be either a bad engine ground or the dizzy.

3. The piston rings are shot, the car barely passes a compression test. It also smokes like a stack of burning tires, and smells like ass. Very embarrassing. The car came with brand new high compression pistons and rings.

4. The Radiator fan has a cracked bearing, it barely spins and makes a loud squealing noise 25% of the time.

5. The wiring is a night mare, I will be redoing a large portion of it.

Exterior

1. As much as I like the custom Ricer primer black finish, its gotta go.

2. The custom projectors and Kustom JDM clear corners have to go, stock lighting all around here.

3. If I can find one, I want to get a Wings West 6 peice body kit, they are extremely clean looking without any flashy ricer crap all around.

Interior

1. The dash has been hacked to ****, I plan on fiberglassing over all the air vents and radio/HVAC controls and making it a very clean finish, I may fiberglass in a guage pod onto the dash somewhere.

2. The car came with some cheesy racing seats, they have to go!

3. The carpet and center console have to go, no interior is a good interior.

4. As much as I hate the Giant Ricer Tach, I'm going to have to keep it, because the stock tach doesnt work.
 

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I like your plans so far, bring this car back from the rice! :lol:

The stock tach is probably not working because the wire was re-routed to the "other" one. Take the hood off the stock gauge cluster, and on the far left side there should be a blue wire going into the cluster for the tach, it'll be the last pin on the outboard clip. If it's not there or cut or something, you'll know what to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
jfrolang said:
I like your plans so far, bring this car back from the rice! :lol:

The stock tach is probably not working because the wire was re-routed to the "other" one. Take the hood off the stock gauge cluster, and on the far left side there should be a blue wire going into the cluster for the tach, it'll be the last pin on the outboard clip. If it's not there or cut or something, you'll know what to do.
Thanks man, I thought That thing would never work!

The gauges have some kind of insert, they're white and backlit blue

I forgot to add, yesterday I cleaned the IACV and it didnt fix the idle, when I get back from puerto rico, I'm going to adjust the FITV, and if that doesnt work, I'll screw with the idle screw.

Once I get this thing running correctly, and the weather warms up, its off with the head, and in with the new pistons! I can hear 93 octane calling my name :)
 

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I don't wanna sound like a pooper, but I don't think your engine setup is good enough for a 13 second pass. Upgrade the cams in that head and then you should see alot more performance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
cbp_crx said:
The rex don't seem to bad, not bad of a price either. Are you going to put the mouldings back on or leave them shaved?
I'd like to put them back on, but I think the slots for them have been bondo'ed over. I'm not sure how they attach or anything either.

ludesrv said:
I don't wanna sound like a pooper, but I don't think your engine setup is good enough for a 13 second pass. Upgrade the cams in that head and then you should see alot more performance.
I didnt expect this engine to put out 13's, I'll give it a shot with the new pistons and cams, but I don't think theres much left for this engine unless i boost it.
 

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SETI20 said:
Definately a good start.
....but dude.....that exhaust??!!
Lol, I just noticed that. Yeah they bondoed over where they go on. There are little square holes, for the clips on back of the mouldings to clip into. I think it woud be a pain getting rid of all the bondo, but I just thought I would ask, to see if you were going to or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
SETI20 said:
Definately a good start.
....but dude.....that exhaust??!!
Yeah I need to hack off that tip and weld a new one on.

cbp_crx said:
Lol, I just noticed that. Yeah they bondoed over where they go on. There are little square holes, for the clips on back of the mouldings to clip into. I think it woud be a pain getting rid of all the bondo, but I just thought I would ask, to see if you were going to or not.
I really wish I could get those moldings back :( It will never looke right with them gone with the stock bumpers, thats why I want a kit to cover it up.
 

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you'll be fine stripping bondo with a wire brush. Just remember to stop when you hit the metal. Thats how I stripped a majority of my car... the DA was taking too long, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sorry I havent updated, these are my last two updates

Update 3-1-2007

Drove her from storage to my house to fix her up and tinker for an hour today.

I fixed the ghetto idle, it turned out to be the Fast Idle Thermowax Valve (FITV). I disabled the FITV to fix the idle, but now the idle is a little low, so i need to adjust the idle screw.

I also lubed up the tracks for the sunroof, so it works like a dream now.

I hooked up the wire for the Tach, but its still not moving yet, I'll have to fiddle around with it in the future.

Just as I was pulling into the lot to bring 'er back to storage, the CEL flicked on, so I'll have to check it soon.

Update 3-5-2007

Today I ran a compression test which left me very confused to say the least.
From Left to Right Cylinder 1-4 (in PSI)

180 - 175 - 181 - 179

So I'm no closer to figuring out where all this smoke is coming from, its grey smoke, and when you really get on the throttle it gets a slight hint of blue. I'm pretty sure it has nothing to do with coolant, because I haven't lost any coolant, and I can't smell any burning. The exhaust has a two-stroke smell to it. And the fact that the compression test came back so well makes me doubt anything to do with piston rings or valves/valve seals.

In the past 3 weeks i've had the car, it has thrown 3 or 4 CELs, so I checked the ECU and found that it was throwing code 16 (Fuel Injector Code). Which leads me to beleive there may be a problem with my AFR.

Right after the compression test, I ran alot of seafoam thru the brake booster into the engine, a whole bottle to be exact. I slowly poured 80% of it bit by bit thru the booster line, then completely submerged the line, stalling the engine, then let it sit for ten mins and restarted. (Like the instructions.) I then proceeded to rev the piss out of it, and take it for a good throttle-tastic drive. The snow directly behind the exhaust pipe was LITTERED with black specs of carbon, so I'm confident this **** did it's job :thumb:

The engine definitely feels smoother after the seafoam, for sure.

The only other problem I have besides a rediculous amount of smoke is bad gas mileage and the car wont rev past 5k (the rev limit is 7.2k).

As soon as the car is revved to 5k, the engine RPM starts to bounce around progressively worse, until it wont go any higher, when it hits this barrier, the exhaust makes audible popping noises and the engine stutters very badly.

Anyone have any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I got another engine code today.

Code 43. "Defective or Malfunctioning Fuel Supply System"

Looks like my honda is figuring things out for itself :)

Anyone got a list of parts I need to completely overhaul the engine fuel system?
 
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