hmmm, thought I heard someone say my name. :wink:
So anyway Tom, you don't like your hair do you? Wanna pull it out with your bare hands do you? Alright, don't say I didn't warn you.
LOL, it's not that bad at all. (easy to say after you've shattered a countershaft bearing figuring it all out) First thing you do is make sure you're completely sober. Next, get a clean table to lay all the parts on. I used an old door. Most important thing to remember is to reference all pieces in exact order and position as they came apart. For instance, lift gear out and off of shaft, do not turn it any which way, set it down on your clean table up side up, lift next shim/sleeve/washer/what have you out and off of shaft, do not turn it any which way, set it down next to the previously removed item, repeat. When putting the assembly back together, install in reverse order while keeping exact positioning (up side up). Do not make the mistake I made; up side of anything must always stay up. You sometimes can't see it with the naked eye but flipping something upside down will change the load distribution and something else will break or bind. In my case I flipped what must've been a tapered washer or something resulting in the shattered bearing.
Now, I can't remember all the steps so use this as a rough guideline. Questions? Stuck? Ask here first. Don't experiment much less force anything. Most pieces in the tranny should come apart without much force. It's all in where the pressure is applied or how the internal parts are held. To be honest with you, As many times as I had my hybrid apart, I'm still not smooth as butter. Some of those parts just take perfect manipulating or finagling to disassemble and especially to reassemble. Get ready to get mad at your inanimate gear stacks.
1) Remove all 12mm case bolts with the input shaft side of the tranny down flat on the ground.
2) Use 3/8 ratchet and short extension alone plus maybe a short pipe for leverage (nothing else) to remove C-clip access plug (do not overtighted that plug when reinstalling or you'll crack the casing, 25 ft lbs is what I torque it to. I think Honda says 30 but I'm not that brave. And be sure to use some kind of sealant on the threads or your tranny will leak)
3) Break the bead of Honda bond that will be between the two halves by lightly and carefully prying with a flat screwdriver on the appropriate tabs. You'll have to look at the casing and visualize where you have to pry to get the halves apart.
4) Once the bead is broken all the way around, with a large snap ring plier, hold the C-clip open while pulling up on the casing. Wiggle upper half off bottom half. An assistant might be helpful here.
5) Remove 10mm's that hold the thingamabobber that holds the reverse idler gear. Set all that junk aside and reference positioning. (important or you wont have reverse when finished)
6) Figure out how the shifting motions work by playing with the selector rod. This is the shaft with the hole in it that you punched the roll pin out of to remove the tranny. Stick a screwdriver in that roll punch hole and turn left/right then move in/out while looking at what the shift forks are doing. This will give you an understanding of how the gear selection is physically done inside the tranny.
7) Once you have that figured out, with your bare hands and not with the selector rod, put the tranny into 2 gears at the same time. This will lock both gear assemblies to allow you to undo the 30mm shaft nut. This is a regular right hand thread nut. jfyi- the 14mm's that hold the ring gear to the differential are left hand threads (but you wont be touching those in this application). Anyway, loosen the shat nut but don't remove it yet. Leave a few threads on so the assembly doesn't just fall apart on you when you lift it out.
8.) Remove the 8mm allen that is on the underside of the bellhousing. This holds a section of the gear selector which wont release the shift forks and thus the gear stacks unless it is undone.
9) You can now lift both gearstacks out of the tranny and start the teardown. Be warned: if you have a way to take clear close up pix from varying angles, do so. Once everything is aparts, sometimes it's not so self explanatory how it goes back together. My first time took several hours to put back together but that's because I just started ripping sh** apart and trying to remember how all 100 pieces went. (pretty stupid coming from a guy with such bad memory, he'll set a tool down and will be looking like mad for it 30 seconds later)
10) Additional note: I don't know the name of the deallie (cuz I'm too lazy to look it up) but at the top of the mainshaft there is a collar/sleeve/ring deal. The sleeve and collar only fit together one way. Looking at the teeth(you'll now what I mean) there is slightly longer teeth on the collar that coincides with a shorter teeth on the sleeve. It'll be very fun trying to get those pieces to stay together, at the same time keeping mesh with the countershaft, at the same time trying to line it up with the shift fork, at the same time trying to engage the shifty gear selector rod interlock. Whatever happens, don't throw the gear stacks across the room in a raging fit. (I know I've wanted to many times when I first started experimenting with the internals of a tranny)
You are lucky you don't have to remove much because all you're doing is replacing the 5th gear set. If you were doing a hybrid, you'd have to transfer all the gears/sleeves/collars/washers/rings/syncrhos from the ZC onto the si counter and mainshaft. For your application, simply remove only what is necessary so you can swap out the 5th gear set. In case you don't know, the 5th gear set is made up of 2 different gears; one on the main and one on the countershaft. They are the gears at the very top of the gear stacks.
Have fun. MUAHAHAHA :twisted: *ooops, I mean... be careful and good luck!
-Heu
p.s. it's late but I'll go over what I wrote tomorrow and see if I missed anything
So anyway Tom, you don't like your hair do you? Wanna pull it out with your bare hands do you? Alright, don't say I didn't warn you.
LOL, it's not that bad at all. (easy to say after you've shattered a countershaft bearing figuring it all out) First thing you do is make sure you're completely sober. Next, get a clean table to lay all the parts on. I used an old door. Most important thing to remember is to reference all pieces in exact order and position as they came apart. For instance, lift gear out and off of shaft, do not turn it any which way, set it down on your clean table up side up, lift next shim/sleeve/washer/what have you out and off of shaft, do not turn it any which way, set it down next to the previously removed item, repeat. When putting the assembly back together, install in reverse order while keeping exact positioning (up side up). Do not make the mistake I made; up side of anything must always stay up. You sometimes can't see it with the naked eye but flipping something upside down will change the load distribution and something else will break or bind. In my case I flipped what must've been a tapered washer or something resulting in the shattered bearing.
Now, I can't remember all the steps so use this as a rough guideline. Questions? Stuck? Ask here first. Don't experiment much less force anything. Most pieces in the tranny should come apart without much force. It's all in where the pressure is applied or how the internal parts are held. To be honest with you, As many times as I had my hybrid apart, I'm still not smooth as butter. Some of those parts just take perfect manipulating or finagling to disassemble and especially to reassemble. Get ready to get mad at your inanimate gear stacks.
1) Remove all 12mm case bolts with the input shaft side of the tranny down flat on the ground.
2) Use 3/8 ratchet and short extension alone plus maybe a short pipe for leverage (nothing else) to remove C-clip access plug (do not overtighted that plug when reinstalling or you'll crack the casing, 25 ft lbs is what I torque it to. I think Honda says 30 but I'm not that brave. And be sure to use some kind of sealant on the threads or your tranny will leak)
3) Break the bead of Honda bond that will be between the two halves by lightly and carefully prying with a flat screwdriver on the appropriate tabs. You'll have to look at the casing and visualize where you have to pry to get the halves apart.
4) Once the bead is broken all the way around, with a large snap ring plier, hold the C-clip open while pulling up on the casing. Wiggle upper half off bottom half. An assistant might be helpful here.
5) Remove 10mm's that hold the thingamabobber that holds the reverse idler gear. Set all that junk aside and reference positioning. (important or you wont have reverse when finished)
6) Figure out how the shifting motions work by playing with the selector rod. This is the shaft with the hole in it that you punched the roll pin out of to remove the tranny. Stick a screwdriver in that roll punch hole and turn left/right then move in/out while looking at what the shift forks are doing. This will give you an understanding of how the gear selection is physically done inside the tranny.
7) Once you have that figured out, with your bare hands and not with the selector rod, put the tranny into 2 gears at the same time. This will lock both gear assemblies to allow you to undo the 30mm shaft nut. This is a regular right hand thread nut. jfyi- the 14mm's that hold the ring gear to the differential are left hand threads (but you wont be touching those in this application). Anyway, loosen the shat nut but don't remove it yet. Leave a few threads on so the assembly doesn't just fall apart on you when you lift it out.
8.) Remove the 8mm allen that is on the underside of the bellhousing. This holds a section of the gear selector which wont release the shift forks and thus the gear stacks unless it is undone.
9) You can now lift both gearstacks out of the tranny and start the teardown. Be warned: if you have a way to take clear close up pix from varying angles, do so. Once everything is aparts, sometimes it's not so self explanatory how it goes back together. My first time took several hours to put back together but that's because I just started ripping sh** apart and trying to remember how all 100 pieces went. (pretty stupid coming from a guy with such bad memory, he'll set a tool down and will be looking like mad for it 30 seconds later)
10) Additional note: I don't know the name of the deallie (cuz I'm too lazy to look it up) but at the top of the mainshaft there is a collar/sleeve/ring deal. The sleeve and collar only fit together one way. Looking at the teeth(you'll now what I mean) there is slightly longer teeth on the collar that coincides with a shorter teeth on the sleeve. It'll be very fun trying to get those pieces to stay together, at the same time keeping mesh with the countershaft, at the same time trying to line it up with the shift fork, at the same time trying to engage the shifty gear selector rod interlock. Whatever happens, don't throw the gear stacks across the room in a raging fit. (I know I've wanted to many times when I first started experimenting with the internals of a tranny)
You are lucky you don't have to remove much because all you're doing is replacing the 5th gear set. If you were doing a hybrid, you'd have to transfer all the gears/sleeves/collars/washers/rings/syncrhos from the ZC onto the si counter and mainshaft. For your application, simply remove only what is necessary so you can swap out the 5th gear set. In case you don't know, the 5th gear set is made up of 2 different gears; one on the main and one on the countershaft. They are the gears at the very top of the gear stacks.
Have fun. MUAHAHAHA :twisted: *ooops, I mean... be careful and good luck!
-Heu
p.s. it's late but I'll go over what I wrote tomorrow and see if I missed anything
