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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This guide is for the adjustment of the e-brake/parking brake on 88-91 CRX's. If you have a lot of slack in your e-brake lever, or your e-brake doesn't hold the car securely when you are parked on a hill, this "how to" is for you.

Tools/supplies needed:

Jack and jackstands
2 Blocks of wood (to block off the front wheels)
Flathead screw driver
12mm wrench (Gearwrench highly recommended)

Before you get started

If you just replaced the rear brakes, you should depress the brake peddle several times before carrying out this procedure. If the rear brakes aren't seated properly, the adjustment procedure will not adjust the e-brake properly.

E-brake Adjustment

First, block off the front wheels and jack up the rear of the car by the center rear tow hook. Place jackstands under the lift points on each side of the car. The front wheels must be blocked because once you lift the rear of the car off the ground, your e-brake is no longer preventing the car from rolling.



Inside the car, move the driver's side seat all the way forward and remove the rear cover panel on the e-brake console. The e-brake adjustment nut (equalizer adjusting nut) is under this cover.



Pull the e-brake lever up only one notch (one click). Tighten the adjustment nut slightly with your 12mm wrench. Check the rear wheels to see if they drag slightly when turned. Repeat the adjustment process until the rear wheels drag slightly. Release the e-brake lever and check that the rear wheels do not drag when turned. Re-adjust as necessary.



NOTE: If you fully tighten the adjustment nut and your rear wheels turn without any drag, there may be a problem with the e-brake lever mechanism (could be broken or disconnected) or the e-brake lines may be stretched and need to be replaced. It could also indicate that the e-brake arms on the rear calipers may be in the incorrect position. When in the correct position (with the e-brake completely off), the arms should be touching against a stationary pin on the caliper. If they aren't, you should be able to take up some of the slack by disassembling and reassembling this section of the caliper in order to get the arm in the correct position.

When the e-brake is properly adjusted, the rear brakes should be fully applied when the e-brake lever is pulled up between 6 - 10 clicks.
 

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Also should be noted that once you run out of adjustment you then have to adjust the mechanical adjusters on the rear brakes themselves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
akirarex said:
Also should be noted that once you run out of adjustment you then have to adjust the mechanical adjusters on the rear brakes themselves.
Good point. This usually isn't a problem unless the rear calipers have been disassembled. However, before replacing anything else, it is a good idea to check the arm that attaches to the rear calipers to make sure that it is in the right position. When the e-brake isn't applied, it should be touching the little stationary pin on the caliper. If it isn't, you need to dissassemble and reassemble that section of the rear caliper in order to place the e-brake arm in the correct position.
 

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My ebrake rubs on my rotor (I think thats whats happening) ... could it mean that thats too tight or something? ... when I'm driving and I make a right turn, it sounded like sand paper on wood on my left rear wheel.
 

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Is this procedure the same for the 90-91 Si cars with rear disks?

--DD
 

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Someone should also post up how to adjust rear drums after new shoes/ drums are installed..
The adjustment nut inside the car is adjusted the same no matter what your rear brake setup is, but you may find yourself running out of adjustment. There is a certain way/ method to adjust the wheel brake cylinder. Not all crx e-brakes have identical adjustments.

I would post pics, but already did the whole rearend and did not take pics along the way.. maybe someone else will for anyone elses future reference
 

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I have rear drums (89 Si)

I have tightened the E-brake (as in the pics) as far as it goes and it still doesn't grab.

Does anybody know how to adjust them at the actual drums? Or have a link?

Thanks in advance!!!
 

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akirarex said:
Also should be noted that once you run out of adjustment you then have to adjust the mechanical adjusters on the rear brakes themselves.
I'm sorry and not trying to be a dick but I must jump in here and keep this misinformation from spreading.

Never adjust the E-brake cable itself until you have adjusted the rears and only then if you really need to. I'm not saying that the e-brake cable may never be adjusted but 99% of the time all you need to do is adjust the rear shoes. Adjust shoes and if necessary adjust cable.

DO NOT adjust the E-brake cable and then adjust rear shoes this is not how it is done.
 

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I know this post is old but it the closest to my problem. I replaced both wheel cylinders front pads and rear shoes, turned both rotors and drums and the driver side rear hub. I adjusted the rear brakes out till they lightly dragged and bled the system, the brakes feel good but cant get the parking brake to work properly. Even with the adjustment nut adjusted all the way down I can tell that the shoes are contacting the drums but will not hold the car, I can push it with one hand and the slightest hill it will roll.
 

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John Taper is absolutely right. The nut on the ebrake cable should only be adjusted when the rear shoes are adjusted properly.
B2bobby, you need to turn the adjuster nut and spread the shoes apart until you can just put the drum over the shoes.


The adjuster nut is #25/32 in this picture.
Before putting the drum back on, remove #20, the adjuster rubber plug and see what position you have to stick a flat head screw driver in to be able to turn the adjuster nut when the drum is on. It's a little bit of a PITA, but that is how it's done.

Now put the drum on and make sure it's seated all the way down. Turn it to see if you have any drag from the shoes. If not, turn the adjustment nut with the screw driver a couple clicks at a time until you feel the shoes drag slightly.
Repeat same procedure on the other side and set the adjustment as close as possible so both side have approx. the same amount of drag on the drums. Don't forget to put the adjuster rubber plug back on.
Now both your rear brakes are adjusted properly. Your ebrake handle should now only lift up a few clicks. If you can still pull it up to 45 degrees or more, adjust the nut on the cable.

On drum brakes you should do the adjustment procedure 2 - 4 times a year. There is a little lever that is supposed to adjust them every time you brake when backing up (# 28/34) but it rarely works, especially not on old , dirty systems.
 

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My ebrake has been acting flakey lately, and I'm wondering if it might just need some adjustment. When I pull it up to engage the ebrake, it doesn't actually engage.. But if I hold down the release button and pull it up it works and stays. Any idea if it just needs an adjustment, or if I have an issue with something else?
 
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