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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This kinda corresponds with Baker423's lip post, and is the reason why I'm sharing this. There are no pictures because there is no difital camera in this household :(

As some of you may have noticed, I seem to know a LOT about the differences between the 88/9 and 90/1 rear bumpers. I admit it... I have a small love affair with the rear lip on the later bumper, but I'm not a fan of the thinner trim, nor did I want to have to replace all the bump strips and front bumper.

So, what am I to do? How about run a 90 bumper through a bumper and cut the bottom lip off. Then, graft the lower section of the bumper to the 89 one. I made the cut right above the cutout for the rear license plate. I then tacked it with some drywall screws, since the small holes should be easy to patch with some flexible filler, right?

So, I then mixed a 2 part plastic epoxy, and applied it to the seam. It held great, until I leaned the bumper against the wall of the garage for a couple days... Ok, mystery epoxy failed.

Attempt #2: Loctite Plastic epoxy. This never seemed to dry, however held the two covers together.

So, I ended up going to a body supply shop and talked to a person there. He shared his secret. First off, Honda bumpers are not Urethane, as I think most people probably believe. They are a plastic known as TPO. This plastic is made up of a higher oil content. What he suggested was to "solder" the bumper together.

Materials needed:

scrap plastic from a bumper
solder iron with a flat iron head (he recommended)
broken (or in need of modding) bumper
Dremel with sanding wheel... might want one of the metal bladed wheels
Duct Tape, or metal foil tape

What to do:

Remove the bumper support.

Along the repair area, you will want to make a "V" shaped knotch on the inside of the bumper.

You will want to cut a piece of the TPO to patch the hole/scratch, crack, whatever. You will also want to cut some extra strips for "soldering"

Reinforce the seam on the outside (painted side) of the bumper.

Now, you will melt the strips of the TPO into the groove. Make sure the heat of the filler plastic is high enough to melt the plastic of the bumper slightly or it will not fuse. You may need to help it along by heating the channel you cut.

Thats it!

However, I don't listen very well, lol. He told me to cut the channel, and that overlapping the 2 covers wont work. I figured I'd give it a shot. I layed the sectioned cover back over the full one. I then, using a pointed soldering tip, "drilled" through the covers, and melted the plastic in those screw holes I had made together. By sliding the soldering iron in and out of the holes a couple times, I was able to join the two panels. I then made spot welds along the seam by holding the soldering iron perpindicular to the seam, and running the plastic onto the stock bumper. I did this at around a 1/4" interval along the entire seam. I then ran an angle grinder along the seam to cut it down. Since the grinder melts the plastic more than sands, and made sure the rotation spit the semi-molten plastic from the cover I added on to the stock cover to complete the graft. It still needs some flexible filler, but its fairly seamless, and I doubt most will even notice the work was done, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey! you spelled her name right! its pretty rare... you just got on her good side, lol.

She can't wait for me to get it done so she can take it out, lol. I'm thinking "pre-nuptual agreement" lol
 

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rex2nr said:
Hey! you spelled her name right! its pretty rare... you just got on her good side, lol.

She can't wait for me to get it done so she can take it out, lol. I'm thinking "pre-nuptual agreement" lol
HA! Right after we got the motors swapped on our cars, Jared's girlfriend wanted one too!
 
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