Honda CRX Forum banner
1 - 20 of 37 Posts

·
Administrator
Joined
·
16,562 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This article will attempt to inform you of what you'll have to do to get rid of that stinking automatic, and install a fun to drive manual transmission.

Here's what you'll need:

-M/T Pedal assembly, preferably with clutch switch intact

-M/T rear mount

-Transmission, Si or Dx 5-speeds make fine choices.

-Flywheel, with new bolts. The auto driveplate bolts are too short.

-New clutch and pressure plate. Don't cheap out, buy a new clutch. Exedy makes a great and affordable stock replacement.

Note: Make sure the years for your flywheel, clutch, and transmission match. 88, 89, and 90-91 parts are incompatible with each other here.

-Clutch cable

-Shift linkage assembly with shifter and boot from any EF

-Spring pin (bitch pin) to secure your shift linkage to your transmission

-Shift linkage bushings, now is a great opportunity to install poly bushings.

-Peice of steel to weld or glue in where the auto shifter cable came through, to close your car from heat, road debris, etc.

-Wire to run from backup light switch on the trans to where your auto shifter was

-Axles. You can reuse your stock axles, but they're coming out anyway, so you may as well get new ones.

-Manual ECU (PM5 for stock D15B2)

-2 quarts of Honda MTF

-A drill that's not afraid to go through steel

-Some general mechanical know-how and tools, including a 32mm socket

-Patience

Getting Started:

Remove the battery and its base. You'll be doing some wiring and removing/installing a transmission, it will only be in your way.

After that, the first thing you probably want to do is get rid of those auto pedals. Disconnect the cotter pin that connects the brake pedal to the brake booster, then you can start unbolting the pedal assembly. To get the best access to the bolts, I recommend removing the driver's seat (two bolts in front, two in back, and a clip underneath, easy) and dropping the steering column.

There are four bolts (12mm head) and two nuts (12mm hex) to release the steering column. Lie on your back in the footwell. Remove the fuse cover. Just above the fuse panel, next to the steering column you will see a stud with a 12mm nut. There is one just like it on the other side. Just above those are a pair of 12mm bolts. These hold the height adjuster mechanism to the inner dash supports. Then there are two more down below on a clamp half.

There are 6 nuts that hold the auto pedals in. Five of them are on the firewall, the sixth is above the brake pedal. To make this easiest, have a 3/8" ratchet with several extensions and a swivel joint on hand. Once they are all off, disconnect the throttle cable and your granny foot controls are out. Pull the plastic pedal stops off your A/T pedals for the future.

Now, you can feed the clutch cable through the firewall. Honda left a hole and a grommet there for you. When that's complete, you can begin installing the M/T pedals. Make sure you have those little pedal stops in place, at least for the brake pedal. Without them, your battery will quickly drain because your brake light switch will always be on. The M/T pedals go back in with 7 nuts. Don't worry, the extra stud you need is already there, but you'll have to find another nut.

When the pedals are in place, make sure the throttle cable and clutch cable are attached to the appropriate pedals and the brake booster cotter pin is installed. You can put the steering column back up too.

Next you can begin removing the transmission. Depending on your situation, you may be better off removing the engine as well, if you're doing an engine swap simultaneously for instance. This guide will walk you through just the transmission removal.

If you haven't done so already, park on a level surface, put the car on jackstands and remove the front wheels. If your rear wheels are still on the ground, (ie. you don't have a lift) make sure the e-brake is applied and block the rear wheels.

Secure a hoist to the engine, remove your intake. Remove the starter and transmission ground cables, then disconnect the speedo cable, it's secured with a clip. Do not disassemble the speedo gear holder, the speedo gear could fall into the transmission housing.

Disconnect the lock-up control solenoid valve wire (just below/in front of the distributor). Drain the transmission fluid into an appropriate container and properly recycle the fluid. The drain bolt accepts a 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar directly. Remove the ATF cooler hoses.

Remove the engine splash shields and right wheel well splash shield (bunch of plastic lock-screws). Remove the axle nuts (32mm). Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the lower front balljoints,and separate the balljoints. Click here to see a video of how to best remove the balljoints. Swing the knuckles out and remove both axles. If the axles are stuck in the hubs, use a mallet or small sledge to knock them out. If you have an axle puller tool (looks like this), lucky you.

Beer/Pizza break.

Remove the right radius rod. Remove the header pipe and bracket (or remove the whole exhaust manifold if those bolts are too rusted), and remove the lower torque converter cover. Next remove the shift control cable by removing the cable holder bolt, cotter pin and control pin, or you can do like I did and just cut the damn thing. At this point you can see the drive plate, remove the drive plate bolts one at a time while rotating the crank pulley.

Place a jack under the transmission to take the weight off the mounts. Remove the mounts in this order: Front, Rear, Side. You're now ready to unbolt the transmission! There are 5 bolts holding the tranny to the engine, get those suckers off, and you can pull the transmission away from the engine. Once the tranny clears the dowel pins, lower it on the jack and dispose of it. Or, sell it to some sucker that's got a blown tranny in his sedan. :twisted:

Remove the drive plate from the engine, and install your shiny new lightweight flywheel with the new bolts. The flywheel bolts are torqued to 76 ft-lbs. Use the alignment tool and bolt your new clutch and pressure plate to the flywheel. Install the new throwout bearing on the manual transmission.

Install the manual transmission in the reverse order of removal, and the M/T rear mount goes in the other holes on the rear crossmember. Don't forget to drain and refill the tranny with Honda MTF.

Beer break.

Next you can remove the auto shifter assembly. This isn't hard, just remove the center console (6 screws) and then start taking the shifter apart. It's not like you're putting it back in, so just take off every screw, bolt and connector you see, and have fun knowing you're done with it! There are some bolts that you'll have to get at from under the vehicle.

Now you have to drill out the holes for the shift linkage. You should be able to easily see where Honda welded them shut, just behind the auto shifter bolt holes. Drill them open and install the shifter and linkages. Have fun with the spring pin. An 8mm punch and the aforementioned sledge will help.

Disconnect the wires from the blue ignition interlock control unit under the driver's seat. It should be very easy to spot because your seat is out. When that's done, remove the single 10mm bolt that holds that little blue box in place, and throw it away. Then tackle the reverse light wiring. Drag two wires from the tranny reverse switch (yellow and green) and connect them to the wires seen below:



Now you can wire the starter circuit. There is no starter relay on the automatic cars, it's handled internally by the auto shifter. You must have seen the two heavy gauge black wires going into the auto shifter, that's your starter circuit. You have two options here, the first is to connect them in a simple loop, as seen below:



If you do this, it will be up to you to make sure the clutch is in and the shifter in neutral before you start the engine. There will be no safety override device in place.

The better method is to make your own starter relay. You'll need a 40-amp automotive relay and a clutch switch on your pedal assembly. The normally open contacts on the relay are where you'll connect the two thick black wires. One side will be tapped into the starter switch signal (the heavy black/white wire on the ignition switch) and the other side will be grounded through the clutch switch on the pedals. Now the starter won't get juice unless the clutch is depressed.

Pull back the carpet from the passenger footwell, remove the ECU cover and ECU and plug in your new ECU. Reinstall the cover and put the carpet back in place.

Use the sheet steel I told you to buy to cover the big hole that was used for the auto shifter cable. It's best to weld it in place, since I assume you won't be converting back to auto. Get a friend to help if you can't weld or don't have the equipment. In a pinch, duct tape will also work, but it's not a permanent solution.

You can use a center console from an M/T CRX, or add a shift boot to your console with the metal shift boot bracket from an M/T console. Put your seat back in and adjust it to your liking, put the battery back in, check to make sure everything is tight and in good working order, and go for a drive. Don't stall it. :p

If there are any errors or omissions feel free to say so.

Special thanks to [email protected], 88DXCRX, bobski, downest, jmart, and shorte.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,040 Posts
I think the axles might actually be the same. I remember looking at mine side by side when i did the swap and I seem to recall not finding a difference.

As far as dropping the steering column it is quite easy. You'll need a 12mm socket i believe. There are two nuts that hold the column to two studs under the gauge area of the dash. Then futher down there are two bolts holding the column by a half circle clamp. I think there is a plastic cylindrical cover over the bottom ones, just pull it down and off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
633 Posts
Unless I've lost my mind again :D I believe the exact amount of fluid required is 1.89 qts,(I just put in 2). Just curious why do you have 3 listed?

Also the front mount, rear bracket, and I think side mount bracket are different too. I can't remember if the side mount itself is different also.

Also need the clutch cable bracket that bolts to the trans. if your new one doesn't have it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,040 Posts
Correction:

There are four (12mm head) bolts and two (12mm hex) nuts to release the steering column. Lie on your back in the footwell. Remove the fuse cover. Just above the fuse panel, next to the steering column you will see a stud with a 12mm nut. There is one just like it on the other side. Just above those are a pair of 12mm bolts. These hold the height adjuster mechanism to the inner dash supports. Then as I said there are two down below on a clamp half.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
16,562 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ZachSettle said:
Could we get an approximate price list? I'm interested in this as long as it doesn't cost too much.
I would if it was all new parts, but a lot of the parts you need are going to be sourced used, and prices vary widely. As an overall estimate though, you should be able to do it for $600 or less. For that price I'm assuming new axles, lightweight flywheel, new Exedy clutch - stuff that you don't have to get but would be smart to take advantage of.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
jfrolang said:
ZachSettle said:
Could we get an approximate price list? I'm interested in this as long as it doesn't cost too much.
I would if it was all new parts, but a lot of the parts you need are going to be sourced used, and prices vary widely. As an overall estimate though, you should be able to do it for $600 or less. For that price I'm assuming new axles, lightweight flywheel, new Exedy clutch - stuff that you don't have to get but would be smart to take advantage of.
Do these parts have to be sourced from a Civic or CRX in the same generation? I was thinking about getting maybe some integra pedals.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
jfrolang said:
Disconnect the wires from the blue ignition interlock control unit under the driver's seat. It should be very easy to spot because your seat is out. When that's done, remove the single 10mm bolt that holds that little blue box in place, and throw it away.
is this blue ignition interlock control unit under the carpet? are you talking about the wires that were plugged into the seat?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
16,562 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It helps show me that you don't have one, you don't even have the cutout in the carpet where it would bolt in place. I guess 88/89 is different in more ways than I thought.

Anyway, the purpose of removing that box is so that you can remove the key from the ignition after you no longer have an automatic gear selector. If you can already do that, skip that step.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
sweet, one less thing to worry about. one other thing, u wrote

jfrolang said:
The better method is to make your own starter relay. You'll need a 40-amp automotive relay and a clutch switch on your pedal assembly. The normally open contacts on the relay are where you'll connect the two thick black wires. One side will be tapped into the starter switch signal (the heavy black/white wire on the ignition switch) and the other side will be grounded through the clutch switch on the pedals. Now the starter won't get juice unless the clutch is depressed.
is this what you're talking about for a 40 amp relay?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
ok thanks. I'll pick one up. So then I run one wire to the black/white wire on the ingnition at the steering column and one to the clutch switch? or is it to the black/white wire by shifter?
As for the white box that was in the auto shifter, I just dissconnect that completly and tape off the harness clips right?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
16,562 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
This is just a pic I found online, but pretty much every relay follows this design.



The thick black wires at the auto shifter will be connected at #30 and #87. #85 goes to the clutch switch, with the other side of the clutch switch going to ground. #86 would be connected to the ignition switch.
 
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top