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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This topic has come up a bunch of times and I've tried to explain it, but pics work best. The quality isn't the best and I wasn't as thorough as I should have been, it's a very dirty job and I didn't want to take a break every few minutes to wash my hands and snap a pic.

Anyway, this steering rack is from an EK Civic, but the same ideas apply, exact bolt sizes etc are omitted because they may not be the same as an EF or DA power rack. The main difference is in how the rack comes apart, there are a few different designs that seem to be somewhat standard between Japanese manufacturers. Below I've posted a picture of the breakdown of an EF rack and the EK rack in the pics, you can see the differences there.


EF rack, notice how it comes apart with the four bolts labeled #36


EK rack, it comes apart after you remove the giant staked-in #16

So, assuming you have the rack out of the car, start by removing all of the power steering hard lines and fittings on the rack. You'll want to plug all these holes. What I do is cut the lines off and keep the flare nuts, and just weld up the centers with a MIG welder to make plugs. I have seen a less-fabulous way where people just crimp the lines off with pliers, either way works fine. Once you have removed the lines from the rack, be aware that you will squirt fluid out if you move the rack in and out.

Next you need to remove the pinion shaft (and optionally replace the bearing). Do this to the CRX/EF rack by first loosening #7 ( #11 on the EK rack) and then removing #4 ( #8 on the EK) and #7 together along with the spring and guide behind them. You will need a giant socket or wrench for this, again, I don't know the size but it's bigger than most adjustable wrenches. I have a set of 1" drive sockets that are in the correct size range. Try to keep the lock nut in the same spot on the plug and you shouldn't have to screw around with the steering rack tension when you reinstall it. Now remove the plate holding in the pinion shaft, #16 (#19 EK), by removing the bolts holding it in, #55 (#30 EK). Remove the snap ring, #39 (#29 EK) and pull the pinion out the top. You will likely cover yourself in power steering fluid.

You should now have this:



Now you can take the rack out the end by separating the two halves. For the EF this would be the aforementioned bolts #36, the EK rack unscrews from the end (similar to Nissan/Subaru/Mazda and probably others). Pull the rack itself out of the housing and you'll see this:



The metal disc on the rack is what we are after, on top is the rack end seal for the EK. This piston is what keeps the fluid in each side of the rack, and what needs to be removed to properly de-power it. I have seen people turn the metal down on a lathe, but that seems like a waste because it's very easy to remove. What I do is notch each side with a cutoff wheel or something and then give it a couple hits with a chisel to crack it in two pieces.



You can see here it's already notched, and about to break off. It's not a part of the rack itself, just a disc around it. This is the most important part of removing the power steering, there may be variations in steering racks, but on every rack I've done on many types of imports, the piston is the same and comes off the same. Here is the rack without the piston:



Now put it all back together and reinstall it, set the tension and get your car aligned. I like to put a lot of grease in the rack after cleaning the power steering fluid out. Here's the EK rack ready to be reinstalled:

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Bone is correct, the piston causes significant resistance in the steering. Some cars also have a more complicated valve body assembly around the pinion, fortunately Honda isn't like that from what I've seen. Below is a pic of the pinion from a 1990 Miata I de-powered a little while back. The Miata pinion shaft is actually two pieces and has just a little bit of slop where the pieces come together, so there is one extra step when de-powering it.



You can see where it is welded now obviously, just imagine the junction between top and bottom having like a 1/8" of play at the outside of the circle.
 

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i know this is an old topic, but due to my situation. i need to attempt this procedure. on my 90 integra.

im not sure if its due to accessing site on mobile chrome broswer or other issue but the images arent displaying.
so
does anyone have the images from this post? by either replyng or share a link so i can view them off site?
or
are they just the steering rack parts diagram in expanded
/exploded view?

when i am able i plan on buying a crx rack to install on. my da. and doing the fitment mod.

thanks in advance
 

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Checking the message source (just hit the "quote" button to see it) tells me that the first couple of images were from "hondaautomotiveparts.com", which was a site that was very useful to find exploded diagrams. Mentioning a number label further hints that it was an exploded diagram...

The other images are from the Wicked Innovation site. A search in the Internet Wayback Machine (archive.org) does not bring up an archive of the directory where the photos were, though others were indeed archived.

Here's the URL that used to point to one of the images:
http://wickedinnovation.net/downest/CRX ... -00351.jpg

Looks like Wicked Innovation is gone; their URL redirects to Google now. No idea how to retrieve them.

--DD
 
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