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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How to drop your oil pan

There comes a time in every CRX's life when the oil pan must come down. Either a leaky oil pan gasket needs fixing, or a bearing needs replacing, or new piston rings are installed. All start with a basic task that seems lightly covered in the Factory Service Manual.

Having just done it myself, I thought I'd put in my two cents as for how it should be done.
Tools Needed:
10mm wrench socket
10mm nut driver
12mm wrench socket
14mm wrench socket
17mm wrench socket
(it's better to have the 6 point rather than the 12 for getting them loose)
Various extensions for above sockets
breaker bar
Torque wrench
Small pry bar
RTV Sealant
Spray Penetrating oil
Never-Seize lube
goggles or faceshield
latex or Mechanix gloves
Jack & jackstands
Oil receptacle
Plastic Ziploc bags to hold nuts and bolts
Plenty of paper towel or rags
cardboard to catch dripping oil

REPLACEMENT PARTS:
Oil (filter is an optional replacement)
Oil drain plug crush washer
Oil Pan Gasket
(possible) Exhaust spring bolts and nuts
(possible) Exhaust manifold to B pipe nuts

1. Jack up the car and place it on jackstands. The best place to jack it up is right under the center of the chin, and place the jackstands on the corners just behind the front wheels. Make sure and chock the rear tires and lock the E-brake.

2. Put your eye protection on - lots of crud will try and meet your cornea while you work here. Go underneath and blast any nuts and bolts you will need to remove with the penetrating oil, and let it work for a few minutes.

3. Drain the oil

4. Remove the B pipe - this is the section that is directly in the way of the oil pan. There are 3 nuts (14mm) on the exhaust manifold, they may need a breaker bar to get off. There are 2 pairs of nuts (12mm) holding it to braces. There is a pair of tensioner bolts holding it to the rest of the exhaust. If these are too rusted out, you may have to cut and replace them. If you need to cut them, cut the cap nut off at the flange, not the obvious bolt - it has a shoulder that holds the opposite side of the flange from the nut. A Dremel tool is handy for this cut! If you do this on a Sunday when every parts counter is closed and you don't have a replacement bolt like this, you can hold it together temporarily with a regular bolt, nuts, and washers.

5. Remove the flywheel guard (12mm on Manual trannies, 12mm and 14mm on auto trannies).

6. Remove the plastic shroud next to the oil pan. Be careful, these bolts (10mm) are all plastic, and the expansion nut comes out the front when you pull the piece off - they are easy to loose.

7. Using your nut driver, unscrew the nuts and bolts (10mm) around the perimeter of the oil pan. Don't worry, it wont drop on your head when they are all out.

8. Using the small prybar, gently wedge the pan away from the block. Usually some of the hardened rubber gasket will stick to both the pan and the block.

If you are going deeper into the block - good luck! I'll continue with reassembly.

9. If you haven't already, clean up everything you have removed, including the nuts and bolts. Engine cleaner and water gets rid of the grime fast, as does a stiff bristled brush and Simple Green.

10. Take the new rubber Oil Pan Gasket and carefully place it on the block - it will hold itself on by gripping the thread of the studs (aaaaaah - now you know why they used bolts AND studs!).

11. Place a small dollop of RTV sealant on the corners of the semicircle cutout (for the crank seals). Get the nutdriver and a nut loaded and close at hand. Carefully raise the oil pan up to the block - you may have to practice this once as it is awkward to do. When you finally get the pan up enough to fit a stud through, get the nut driver and attach it. This will be enough to hold so you can get the rest of the nuts and bolts attached. Torque to 12Nm.

NOTE: Before reattaching ANY nut or bolt, put a dab of Never-Seize on it. It will prevent rust and make it much easier to get off later on, if you need to. It's heat resistant so it's OK for the exhaust pieces as well.

12. Reattach the flywheel guard. Torque to 22Nm if both bolts are the same size, or torque the larger bolt to 40Nm.

13. Wiggle the B pipe back into place. The various studs will hold it while you get the nuts on. Make sure EVERY bracket is on it before you tighten anything down. Torque the nuts on the exhaust manifold to 32Nm. Torque bracket bolts to 22Nm. Torque bracket nuts to 16Nm.

14. Attach the exhaust tensioner bolts. I found that a quick clamp was handy to squeeze the spring down enough to get the cap nut on. Torque the caps to 22Nm.

15. Reattach the plastic guard. I left this for last in case you forgot and had to go back for something.

16. Check that the oil plug is torqued correctly at 45Nm, and refill with oil. You can normally let a filter stay on at least though one oil change, but you could have changed it before as well if you wanted.

17. Start car, stop and recheck the oil level and look for a new puddle of oil. If no new oil stains - CONGRATS!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That crossmember under the front of the engine... I don't know what else to call it.
 

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Is there any sequence for tightening the nuts and bolts of the oil pan?
 

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KansasKev said:
Is there any sequence for tightening the nuts and bolts of the oil pan?
When i did mine i just chris crossed and wentfront right back left ...left side to right side and kept on chris crossing...you dont need to

Also...

Oil Pan TRQ Specs 9LBS

and went to autzone and got all new nuts
 

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do NOT over torque them little bolts and nuts surrounding the oil pan!

absolutely NO MORE than FINGER tight. (9 ft-lbs as stated above) thats all it takes. do them all in correct sequence and let the gasket do its job.
 

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whats it look like underneath the oil pan? any pictures? I;m about to get there with my engine, but im taking it out completely...
 

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tyson said:
do NOT over torque them little bolts and nuts surrounding the oil pan!

absolutely NO MORE than FINGER tight. (9 ft-lbs as stated above) thats all it takes. do them all in correct sequence and let the gasket do its job.
9 ft-lbs? really? I read somewhere that it was like 33. but I don't know..
I need to know, I plan on doing this soon
 

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flatwhitecrx said:
tyson said:
do NOT over torque them little bolts and nuts surrounding the oil pan!

absolutely NO MORE than FINGER tight. (9 ft-lbs as stated above) thats all it takes. do them all in correct sequence and let the gasket do its job.
9 ft-lbs? really? I read somewhere that it was like 33. but I don't know..
I need to know, I plan on doing this soon
9 is correct although I only torqued mine to 7ft/lbs. The gasket wanted to squeeze out to much if I torqued it any more. :oops: I don't have any leaks so all is good.
 

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nice write up. . .. once you've done it a few times you will be able to judge the amount of torque by the gasket squeeze. . .

I have always personally tightened from the middle out to the edges alternating sides in a circular motion. .. . like you would do on a head. ..
 

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just did mine and i hadlittle rings around each stud if you have them get them all off or youll leak oil every where and i mean everywhere
 

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Just did mine, do not mistake your tranny service pan and start prying from the side lol. youll turn your car back on and get a fkn hella loud scrapping sound then realize that you need to take the panel off, pound it out, and put it back on before finishing.

this didnt happen to me ofc ;)
 

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In the process of doing mine, its been one hell of a fight, not the oil pan it self, that was easy, but the exhaust where the b pipe connects to header/manifold one of the nuts would not come off, i bought he craftsman bolt outs, they stripped it more, i bought a nut cutter, it wouldn't fit. Finally I decided to take off the manifold from the engine and drop the whole thing, the ac compressor was in the way and the tubes but i bought the car with out the belt on it so i took it out and then wiggled the whole pipe and header down through the car. :)
 

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cocacolacox said:
In the process of doing mine, its been one hell of a fight, not the oil pan it self, that was easy, but the exhaust where the b pipe connects to header/manifold one of the nuts would not come off, i bought he craftsman bolt outs, they stripped it more, i bought a nut cutter, it wouldn't fit. Finally I decided to take off the manifold from the engine and drop the whole thing, the ac compressor was in the way and the tubes but i bought the car with out the belt on it so i took it out and then wiggled the whole pipe and header down through the car. :)
yup, rusty as hell right?

Thats what you get from an exhaust system though ><
 

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yea now its in the vice waiting for the hacksaw drill and replacement bolt

But after reading the write up on the rebuild of my engine I'm thinking hell the hard parts over, should i hold my dad's garage hostage a little longer....
 

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Wow noone chimed in with don't use rtv. Use only hondabond. Figured it'd been posted quick.
 

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Nothing is wrong with RTV...just you know how some guys on here are all "HONDA STUFF ONLY!"
lol...was just waiting for the big "If you don't put hondabond on it..umm..uhh..something..um very very...uh, VERY bad will happen..because ONLY HONDA PARTS WORK. AFTERMARKET = FAIL."
lol

I've seen the can RTV stuff (5 mintue or something) do some miracles.
Has a freaking S-10 with a 550hp 355c.i. SBC leaking like a mofo from the front of the intake,
shut it off, sprayed with brakekleen, scuffed with emery cloth, put that crap on there...waited the 5 minutes..started it up..not a drop.
Didn't work on MY intake in my SBC s10 of course..but nothing ever works for me.
 

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After replacing my oil pump, I replaced the oil pan gasket. Used a layer of RTV around the pan and block as per advice from a friend, put the gasket on the pan first, then put the pan back up. Pan leaked like a sieve. Pulled off the pan today and the gasket was ripped in three places. I read your instructions, stripped all the RTV off, put the gasket on the block first (SO much easier!) and reinstalled everything. Worked perfectly. No leaks so far. Thanks for the write-up!
 
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