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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got another write up done today...

I have to give the credit to Jmart for the project, I just made a pretty write up for it. Here's the .pdf file for it, here are the other write ups. I'll post the text here, but there are pictures and stuff in the .pdf.

Rear Sway Bar Installation into a non-Si CRX

First off I want to credit JMart for this project. I personally have only had Si models, but he converted a Rio Pink 89 DX to a 90-91 Si, swapping everything but the roof over from his wrecked Si.

So why do you do this? The best upgrade for any front-wheel-drive understeering Honda is a rear sway bar, whether you're adding it or upgrading the stock one. Unfortunately, Honda decided not to include a factory rear sway bar on the non-Si (HF and DX) model CRXs. For some aftermarket bars, you can use the rear tow-hook mounts with an adapter bracket. If you don't want to drop a lot of money on one, or you think an OEM Si sway bar is enough, this is how you can mount it like stock.

Materials and Tools

CRX/Civic Si rear lower control arms

CRX/Civic Si sway bar with brackets

sway bar to lower control arm bolts

sway bar bracket to frame bolts with nuts (use shock top hat nuts)

Grommets to fit the large holes

Electric drill with 3/8" bit and a stepped bit large enough to fit a 14mm socket through

14mm socket x2 and ratchet x2 with extension

jack and stands

Removing the old LCAs

This first part is pretty easy, you need to take out the stock lower control arms. Unbolt them from the hub, the shock, and finally from the car, and pull them out.

Installing the Sway Bar

All CRXs have the holes for the bracket bolts in the frame, but they don't all have the welded-on nuts for the bolts to thread into. A good choice for these is some shock tower (top hat) nuts. These nuts also make good replacements for the nuts that are welded to the frame to hold the lower control arms.

First thing, before you start drilling, empty the trunk of carpet and anything else that could be damaged. Using your 3/8" bit, drill through the floor pan from the bottom. Now you have four holes in the trunk that look directly down to the ground through the frame of your car. Get back inside the trunk, and open each hole up with your larger stepped bit.
You can now drop the nuts down through the top holes, while feeding the bolts up from the bottom. Bolt the brackets up to the car, letting the sway bar end links hang free for now. After installation, use the grommets you got to plug the holes.


Holes in the trunk for the bracket bolts.


Sway bar bracket installed (bottom view), just like OEM

Re-Installing the LCAs

Before you get them in, this is a good time to install new OEM or polyurethane bushings into your LCAs. If you already have some, this might be a good time to grease them up so they won't squeak as much. If you're installing used OEM arms, you may want to clean them up first, at the very least chase all the threads with a tap.

Put the inside end in first, and bolt the arm to the frame of the car. Then swing it up and bolt it up to the hub. Now bolt the sway bar end link to the LCA. Note that the first side will be much easier. To avoid stripping the hole or breaking anything, try to use a jack on the bar or the wheel to line up the bolt as much as possible, and remember to use anti-seize on all suspension parts.


Bolting the LCA to the shock and sway bar...


...and to the hub
 

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well, all you need is two drill bits to do this. If you're on the cheap, like many crx owners are, its much more cost effective.
 

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downest said:
Exactly. Not only that but it lets you mount the stock bar, which you can get a lot cheaper than an aftermarket one (if not free).
Free? If you can get all that stuff for free...let me know! Finding parts up here sucks. Most wreckers don't let you pull the underbody/suspension parts cause they leave the car sitting without wheels, and they never keep them long.

I wish I had awesome scrap yards up here, but they are all stimes!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey guys, I'm going to sticky this write up, and some other ones, please review them or let me know what you think, and I'll start moving some things to the HOW-TO section so it won't get lost in the archived posts.

With my write ups, if you think I should add the pics in (as I have in the .pdf) let me know. I can't promise they will be hosted forever, that's why I make the .pdf as well, but I can put them up for a while and host. Maybe I can get someone else to host them too... my RPI webspace will be done for me in may when I graduate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Sly!

I have the pics for it, I'm going to get them on the CRXCommunity server so they will be permanent, then add them... just need to dig them out and email them to John.
 

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I mounted the brackets to the factory holes by taking bolts and using a dremel cut each with a slot opposite the head.Then I fished the bolts into place from a hole on the other side of the tiedown brackets.I removed the tiedown brackets first so the chance of a snag was reduced as I fished the bolts past.I twisted wire around the slotted end of the bolt so that end is pulled out.You fish the wire into the factory hole out through the large hole first then wire up the bolt then pull the wire back.I used the sway bar bracket to keep the bolts steady as I started each nut then tightened up keeping the bolt from turning with a screwdriver.I used stainless bolts so rust would not ruin the slots if I needed to tighten in the future.
 

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I know there was another write up of doing this by taking off the bumper as well. I just completed this task...instead of using a long breaker bar I used a rod magnet to hold the nut in place while I tighted it from below. I did take the time to tap and die the bolts and nuts as well (used is why) and lubricate them...then dremeled the bottoms of the nuts as to have traction (grip like locknuts). I did the other way with my 88 dx and this way was a little harder but saved 4 holes in my cargo bay. removing could be another story but eh...easier to pull out with a magnet than to guide in.
 
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